To free up some some floor space, and because I thought I'd like the look, I created a built-in firewood niche. I created a basic box (3/4 birch ply) with Kreg joints. Cut a hole in the wall, and built a 2X4 frame inside the wall (also using Kreg joints). I attached the box then finished the wall around the box.
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John, Wow !!! Just Wow !!!
I must admit, that design is a new one on me !!! I had no idea that something like that was available.....but in this business, you ALWAYS learn something new everyday !!!
Thank you for the link to the manufacturer. I will definately check them out..... I'm looking for a solution for my woodworking shop heat for next winter and I've shyed away from wood heaters for precisely the "clearance" problem....You see, my "woodworking" hobby tends to leave me with lots of firewood.... :^(
In what part of the country are you located?
Once again, thank you for the education on this stove !!!
Doug
Looks really good John. But one thing concerns me that I would really like for you to check into.
As a chimney sweep with more than 27 years experience I've seen thousands of stove installations. But the fire safety code requires at least 36" clearance from the outside of the stoves to ANY combustible surface in any direction. In your case, that would be the sheetrock wall and the basemold at the floor. From the pictures, it doesn't appear that your's is installed correctly.
Some stove manufacturers have been able to drop that clearance requirement to 18" by using a double walled design with a fan forced air circulation system. Also, single wall pipe should also be at least 18" away from any combustible as well.
Please check with your manufacturer's owner's manual to be sure your stove is installed to code.
Good luck and stay safe!
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