wood fillers

[Jens Jensen]

Who uses what as far as deep scratches in ceder. I am planning some ceder and as you no ceder is as soft as Charmine TP and yes I got a sliver that tore out and have to try ftll it.It will have clear coat on top when finished

[Jay Boutwell]

What I often do in a situation where there is a sliver torn out and missing is to use a knife and cut out a sliver in as much of a dupliction of the sliver as I can.  Sometimes I will cut the sliver damage out deeper and then use some exopy quick setting glue to glue in the repair.  It is important to use the glue sparingly as any squeeze out will most often cause you a glue blimish around the repair.  Once it is dry I will sand it down and then using sanding dust and quick setting epoxy as a final filler between any remaining void around the repair.  When I finish the sanding I will wash the area down with white vinegar to remove glue and fingerprint oils from the area,  When done correctly you will find that the repair is almost undetectable.  For scratches and dents across the grain it is more difficult and I will use epoxy and sanding dust from the same wood as a wood filler.  In a case where there is other natural defects in the wood suck as knots I will often use a knot big enough to cover the damage.  I knock the knot  out of another piece of wood and then cut a recess in the wood in the same size and shape in the wood going only about a 1/4" deep into the damage wood and glue (epoxy)  in the knot that I have cut on a band saw to cut the knot to fit the recess debth.   Using the same technique as above filling the outer voids.  I try to avoid any wood fillers as most often they are more noticable in the finish as the method I use.  As a last resort I will use a wood filler that is made of actual wood fibers of the same type species as the wood used.  If I  notice the defect during layout of the project I will  avoid the damage using the good material in locations where it will fit.

Areas with a defect  is also a good location to make your own defects like add a knot or worm hole or to turn the defect into an accent doing an inlay of a choice.  I have cut inlays  making such things as flowers and plants like a leaf or stems with fruit on them.  Animals like doves, swans,  or birds in flight are well liked.  Back when the "duck" was an American craze you were finding them on dishes and other kitchen related articles, I cut alot of duck inlays in my work.  In early american furniture or country furniture things like deer heads elks heads and duck and other game animals are popular.  Country style horse heads and full figured horses are popular items as well as cowboy boots, barbed wire, catus and catus flowers are popular. 

 I do alot of inlays in maple leaves and oak and hickory nut leaves and nuts.   One of the most popular things I am finding demands for is the insects like dragon flies, butter flies and bees.  The point I am trying to make here is to use the defect to your advantage.  It is this very thing that will make your work unique and different from everyone elses.   My thinking on defects is this:  "If you can't hide it or fix it then accent it." 

There maybe guidelines in jointery however it is the finish and the accents and decorative finishing that makes it a piece of unique work and it becomes like a masterpiece as no one else has this same piece.  Unless you over do the accent work the piece will be alive and a thing of beauty as it is the knot, and the natural defects that is like a signature of nature and says, " I'm not plastic" and demands your attention and your touch. 

[Jens Jensen]

Gosh Jay that is a book by itself I will have to print this out and go play on some scrap wood.On inlays do you hand cut with a dreemel tool and carve out inlays of animals etc??
Hadgood day yesterday for quotes and bids.Ill email u

Jay Boutwell said:

What I often do in a situation where there is a sliver torn out and missing is to use a knife and cut out a sliver in as much of a dupliction of the sliver as I can.  Sometimes I will cut the sliver damage out deeper and then use some exopy quick setting glue to glue in the repair.  It is important to use the glue sparingly as any squeeze out will most often cause you a glue blimish around the repair.  Once it is dry I will sand it down and then using sanding dust and quick setting epoxy as a final filler between any remaining void around the repair.  When I finish the sanding I will wash the area down with white vinegar to remove glue and fingerprint oils from the area,  When done correctly you will find that the repair is almost undetectable.  For scratches and dents across the grain it is more difficult and I will use epoxy and sanding dust from the same wood as a wood filler.  In a case where there is other natural defects in the wood suck as knots I will often use a knot big enough to cover the damage.  I knock the knot  out of another piece of wood and then cut a recess in the wood in the same size and shape in the wood going only about a 1/4" deep into the damage wood and glue (epoxy)  in the knot that I have cut on a band saw to cut the knot to fit the recess debth.   Using the same technique as above filling the outer voids.  I try to avoid any wood fillers as most often they are more noticable in the finish as the method I use.  As a last resort I will use a wood filler that is made of actual wood fibers of the same type species as the wood used.  If I  notice the defect during layout of the project I will  avoid the damage using the good material in locations where it will fit.

Areas with a defect  is also a good location to make your own defects like add a knot or worm hole or to turn the defect into an accent doing an inlay of a choice.  I have cut inlays  making such things as flowers and plants like a leaf or stems with fruit on them.  Animals like doves, swans,  or birds in flight are well liked.  Back when the "duck" was an American craze you were finding them on dishes and other kitchen related articles, I cut alot of duck inlays in my work.  In early american furniture or country furniture things like deer heads elks heads and duck and other game animals are popular.  Country style horse heads and full figured horses are popular items as well as cowboy boots, barbed wire, catus and catus flowers are popular. 

 I do alot of inlays in maple leaves and oak and hickory nut leaves and nuts.   One of the most popular things I am finding demands for is the insects like dragon flies, butter flies and bees.  The point I am trying to make here is to use the defect to your advantage.  It is this very thing that will make your work unique and different from everyone elses.   My thinking on defects is this:  "If you can't hide it or fix it then accent it." 

There maybe guidelines in jointery however it is the finish and the accents and decorative finishing that makes it a piece of unique work and it becomes like a masterpiece as no one else has this same piece.  Unless you over do the accent work the piece will be alive and a thing of beauty as it is the knot, and the natural defects that is like a signature of nature and says, " I'm not plastic" and demands your attention and your touch. 

[Jay Boutwell]

Jens, I do inlay in different ways depending on what it is.  I will sometimes use a small router and at times I use a dermel.  Most often there is also the use of a carving knife involved to make the sharp sides,  I will also use a chisel and mallet resorting to razor knives and surgeon's scapels.  If I do an inlay in stone I use dremel and air driven die grinders with diamond burrs.   On the straight inlays I use only my table saw.  In the last inlay job on the table I posted that was done using a table saw for all of the stright inlays and then a chisel to do the tear drops.  To cut inlay pieces,  I use mostly a RBI hawk scroll saw with special fine blades.  My adhesive of choice is the epoxy glues along with a press fitting enlay piece.  If I do metal enlays it is often a combination of many tools depending on what I am cutting and inlaying.  If I use precious metals I use a diamond burr in a die grinder of dremel and then back cut the very bottom and use pure silver and dental gold and simply hammer it into place filling the undercut so it will not come out.  I finish it by a hand file and then polish it. 

I have another inlay job of a large inlay table coming up this late fall, so I will try to do detailed photos on the process and post it.  It is going to be a 12 sided table about 6 ft accross and unless the customer changes his mind on material it will be black walnut with blood wood inlays.  I hope he does not change on material as I have the bloodwood on order and should arrive in the next couple weeks.  I have most of the black walnut in stock but still need to pickup a few more pieces. 

Jens Jensen said:

Gosh Jay that is a book by itself I will have to print this out and go play on some scrap wood.On inlays do you hand cut with a dreemel tool and carve out inlays of animals etc??
Hadgood day yesterday for quotes and bids.Ill email u

Jay Boutwell said:

What I often do in a situation where there is a sliver torn out and missing is to use a knife and cut out a sliver in as much of a dupliction of the sliver as I can.  Sometimes I will cut the sliver damage out deeper and then use some exopy quick setting glue to glue in the repair.  It is important to use the glue sparingly as any squeeze out will most often cause you a glue blimish around the repair.  Once it is dry I will sand it down and then using sanding dust and quick setting epoxy as a final filler between any remaining void around the repair.  When I finish the sanding I will wash the area down with white vinegar to remove glue and fingerprint oils from the area,  When done correctly you will find that the repair is almost undetectable.  For scratches and dents across the grain it is more difficult and I will use epoxy and sanding dust from the same wood as a wood filler.  In a case where there is other natural defects in the wood suck as knots I will often use a knot big enough to cover the damage.  I knock the knot  out of another piece of wood and then cut a recess in the wood in the same size and shape in the wood going only about a 1/4" deep into the damage wood and glue (epoxy)  in the knot that I have cut on a band saw to cut the knot to fit the recess debth.   Using the same technique as above filling the outer voids.  I try to avoid any wood fillers as most often they are more noticable in the finish as the method I use.  As a last resort I will use a wood filler that is made of actual wood fibers of the same type species as the wood used.  If I  notice the defect during layout of the project I will  avoid the damage using the good material in locations where it will fit.

Areas with a defect  is also a good location to make your own defects like add a knot or worm hole or to turn the defect into an accent doing an inlay of a choice.  I have cut inlays  making such things as flowers and plants like a leaf or stems with fruit on them.  Animals like doves, swans,  or birds in flight are well liked.  Back when the "duck" was an American craze you were finding them on dishes and other kitchen related articles, I cut alot of duck inlays in my work.  In early american furniture or country furniture things like deer heads elks heads and duck and other game animals are popular.  Country style horse heads and full figured horses are popular items as well as cowboy boots, barbed wire, catus and catus flowers are popular. 

 I do alot of inlays in maple leaves and oak and hickory nut leaves and nuts.   One of the most popular things I am finding demands for is the insects like dragon flies, butter flies and bees.  The point I am trying to make here is to use the defect to your advantage.  It is this very thing that will make your work unique and different from everyone elses.   My thinking on defects is this:  "If you can't hide it or fix it then accent it." 

There maybe guidelines in jointery however it is the finish and the accents and decorative finishing that makes it a piece of unique work and it becomes like a masterpiece as no one else has this same piece.  Unless you over do the accent work the piece will be alive and a thing of beauty as it is the knot, and the natural defects that is like a signature of nature and says, " I'm not plastic" and demands your attention and your touch. 

[ray vile]

Wow what do you do when two great minds start discussing something, but sit back and read what is being written and just hope you can comprehend most of it, Thanks guys

[Jens Jensen]

That Jay is like Britanica books Dont think there is not much he dont no about anything not just woodworking

I made couple shutters and allum screens for a horse stable today.Next might be taping and painting a wall for her and also wants price on a 13 foot long 43 inch high mirror in the arena so the riders can watch themselves ride. Heck Ill do anything for a buck