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I put off making one of these for ages, I finally did and it is one of the best things I've made! Really helps out on projects!!
KLW
Today I found out my new cheap table saw doesn't cut square I have to adjust the guide-fence
I also learned my miter grooves are not 3/4" after I bought some rockler feather boards.
I'm 69 and not as sharp as I once was, and even that wasn't very sharp.
I may try to build a sled any pictures?
Today I found out my new cheap table saw doesn't cut square I have to adjust the guide-fence
I also learned my miter grooves are not 3/4" after I bought some rockler feather boards.
I'm 69 and not as sharp as I once was, and even that wasn't very sharp.
I may try to build a sled any pictures?
Larry; log on to http://www.woodsmith.com/ and lookaround there. You will find plans for table saw sleds.
kenny
Table saw sled plans
Here's a few more
Hope this helps
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/12/22-free-crosscut-sled-plans-th...
http://www.bobsplans.com/FreeJigPlans/TableSawJig/TableSawJig.htm
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/departments/building-skills/...
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/6972/crosscut-sled-for-the-tabl...
http://www.mywoodprojects.com/plans/crosscutsled.aspx
http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com/Table_Saw_Rip_Sled_Plan.html
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/crosscut-sled/
I think MDF would be best, but having said that i used a nice straight true piece of hardwood I happened to have laying around. Screwed to the base using the Kreg jig I might add..
KLW
Today I found out my new cheap table saw doesn't cut square I have to adjust the guide-fence
I also learned my miter grooves are not 3/4" after I bought some rockler feather boards.
I'm 69 and not as sharp as I once was, and even that wasn't very sharp.
I may try to build a sled any pictures?
Not trying to hijack this thread, but since this is still on topic, maybe this can help others...
Jay, I tried the method you describe but did the cut in the middle of the sled, not the end. Using the guides on either side of the blade. I used the slot to true up the fence. Then I did the 5 cut test to see if the fence was actually true or not. First time it was off by 1/4 inch at the top of the fifth cut, the second time it was off by 3/16 inch at the bottom of the cut. I soon figured out that my 10 inch blade (a black and decker 40 tooth carbide tooth blade) bent and flopped when it was cutting, all on its own. I can set the regular fence 1 inch away from the blade, and do a cut, it will be exactly 1 inch wide, then do it again without touching the blade and the cut will be 1/16 to 1/8 shy or over the inch... and the opposite of that cut for the third cut....
Is this normal? the blade seems as this as the others I have. It is a new one that I just bought and put on.
Is this because I have a cheap Delta ShopMaster?
The miter guides on the Delta Shopmaster is a keyhole slot.... is not a true square and is not deep at all... extremely hard to make runners for this thing...
All of the above-mentioned adjustments are a waste of time if the trunnion is not true to the miter slots. It is the most important adjustment. The rest are based on the assumption that the first is correct.
Adjusting a rip fence parallel to an incorrectly adjusted blade will still produce accurate rip cuts. Crosscuts, however, will never be square as the miter slot will tend to pull the work piece away from/toward the blade, depending on which side of the blade your working.
If the rip fence is adjusted to the miter slots and the trunnion is still incorrect, the rip cuts will resemble a rip, but are in fact a cove cut, very inefficient and dangerous.
Please do not learn this lesson the hard way. A mis-adjusted table saw is EXTREMELY dangerous, let alone inefficient and frustrating to work with. Do yourselves a favor and take the extra time to check that adjustment.
For Technical Support, please call 800-447-8638 or send a message. Reps are available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm CST.
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