table top glue up or Kreg

[jim channell]

i am building a wide screen media center and the top will be 5/4 stock ... there will be 4 - 6" wide boards ... that need to be joined together seemlessly

 

the plans recommend gluing up 2 of the boards together at a time and then join the 2 sections together ... this top will sit on top of a plywood base and screwed from below

 

any thoughts about using Kreg to join the boards together or just use glue .

 

thanks for your thoughts

[ray vile]

Jim, I would use the pocket holes to edge join your top, I built a computer desk and used the kreg jig to make the top I have it posted on my page, check it out

 

[David Dean]

Both I know that it may sound wried but the top helps support the side's middle it help's to lock everything togather and keeps the buttom from bowing under the waght. My work may not be as pretty as some but it well last the test of time.

[Geoff Simpson]

I've built shelves and even doors using the kreg to connect the boards together (with glue) and got an excellent result.  Just make sure the edges are square.  I run the board through the tablesaw to square up the edges...drill 'em, glue 'em, clamp 'em, screw 'em, dry 'em, sand 'em (occassionaly wood-fill 'em) and install 'em. 

 

Please note:  The above post does not make mention of your potential need to "Paint 'em".  In which case, i would add that step beween; Sand 'em and Install 'em. 

 

I'm here to help

 

 

[justin waldron]

If I do something like a table top, I always do a glue up in sections with biscuits so I can run the sections through the planer to surface them before the final glue up.

[Jay Boutwell]

Jim, I would use both, the glue does two things for you in making panels.  #1. It makes them ridgid and stiff turning them into a one piece stock.  Alternate the wood growth rings and watch your grain figures so they make an nice looking top.  #2. By using the glue (I use tightbond)  you can get by using less number of pocket screws and have a stronger top in the end.   The reason I suggest watching and alternating the growth rings in the stock as it aids in preventing the "CUP" effect in the panel.  It is easier to use pocket screws and glue as you do not have the clamping problem however there are times when may not like to use screws.  Examples would be when you make glue up panels for doors and or any other panel where you can not hide the screws.

I normally do not use pocket screws on panels and glue all the joints and clamp them.  I have glued 4 foot plus wide panels and as long as near 8 feet at a time without any difficulty .  The biggest mistake often made is dry glue joints caused be either too less amount of glue or over tightening the clamp which squeezes out the glue making it a dry joint. 

On a small panel of about 3 to 4 feet long and maybe up 4 feet wide, the proceedure I use is to cut my stock to rough length and then edge it by either saw and or jointer getting a straight line so all mating surfaces are tight.  I check all pieces for the "Cup problem" and if I need to use that piece, I will make a saw cut down the middle and the recut the edges.  I alternate the growth rings so that they alternate one up one down.   I lay out the grain pattern and make any changes I need to acheive what I'm looking for. Once I'm satisfied with the results, I draw a "witness mark" across each joint in at least two places and number the boards.  Taking the board which will become one of the edges, turn it up so the the glue surface is up.  On a flat surface that is big enough to support the stock when it is glued up and laying on it's surface I cover the surface with paper (News Paper works),  Use a large bar clamp and clamp the lower edge on each end.  Move the board to the edge next to you.  With the glue bottle begin at one end and making small figure "8* type circles cover the entire length of the joint.  Repeat the same on the ajointing board glue joint and stack on top of the first.  By pulling the one board one direction for a bout 2 inches and pulling it back you will have spread the glue.  Continue until you have glued and stacked each board and making sure to aline all of  the witness marks.  The boards will want to slip at the joint so use a small hand squeeze clamp across each joint.  Once you are finished, holding firm pressure down on the top board remove the squeeze clamps and bar clamps and simply allow the glue up to fall onto it's back onto the paper covered table.  Check that all the  witness marks aline and clamp the asssembly.  Once clamped you can set the assembly back upright.  When glue begins to set use a sharp razor blade and remove the excess.  Useing a 50/50 minture of water and white vinegar to wipe away the glue will aid in removing large glue squeeze out . 

For large and difficult panel glue ups I use a homemade fixture made of 2x4's that I lean against a wall to hold the panels until I complete the glue work and  apply the clamps.  If interested contact me and I will explain and draw you a diagram of how I use it.  Enjoy and enjoy building the project

[Jay Boutwell]

Jim here is a sketch of the racks I use figured I would just attach it

[jim channell]

Justin:

 

thank you for yout advice

 

Jim

justin waldron said:

If I do something like a table top, I always do a glue up in sections with biscuits so I can run the sections through the planer to surface them before the final glue up.