Splitting/Tearout

[Tony Ghaffarian]

I am joining 3/4" with 3/4" wood at a 90-degree angle with my K4. I am using a 3/4" inch screw as directed but am noticing that either the screw doesn't go in, or if I make an adjustment, then it splits the wood and pops out. Any suggestions? I'm trying to make the carrier that is on the KREG site.

[KregRep]

Hi Tony. When joining 3/4"-thick material to 3/4"-thick material, it is actually best to use a 1-1/4" Kreg pocket-hole screw. You will then need to make sure your K4 is adjusted to the 3/4" setting. Perhaps that is where your mix-up occurred. Here is the Kreg Screw Chart for future reference:
It's also a good idea to have a few test pieces that you won't need for your final project. Drill a couple of practice pocket holes in them to help you get the hang of things. We also recommend clamping down your material when drilling pocket holes. A secured, clamped-down workpiece will be much less likely to shift when you're drilling. This is a great precaution to take, as workpiece shift tends to cause wood splitting.

Also make sure that you are using the correct screw-thread type. Fine-thread screws are the preferred choice for hardwoods such as cherry, maple, oak, etc. And coarse-thread screws are the preferred choice for softwoods such as pine, cedar, etc. Our website offers more information on this: https://www.kregtool.com/store/c20/kreg-jigreg-screws/#tab1705.

Another tip is to make sure that your drill is running at full speed before it comes in contact with your material. A higher-speed drill will make the cut more efficient, resulting in a pocket hole with less tear-out and better outward appearance.

I hope these tips help you to successfully drill clean pocket holes. You are also welcome to call the Kreg Customer Service Team at any time; they will be happy to answer any questions you may have. You may reach them by phone at 800-447-8638 or online.

Thanks for posting, and good luck!
KregRep

[John Tomkinson]

I support the comment to 'clamp down' your wood pieces tightly together prior to driving in your screws.  I remember when I tried to drive in a screw without secure clamping, it wouldn't 'take'.   And, for sure, it doesn't hurt to experiment with scrap wood pieces and different screw lengths.  And of course, Kreg has an excellent tutorial video on screw size & selection.  John.

[John Tomkinson]

When I joined my Saw Caddy project, I utilized 1-inch pan head screws to join the 1/2 inch Baltic Birch plywood cleat to the 3/4 inch plywood Face Plate.  When joining the 3/4 inch plywood pieces to other 3/4 inch plywood pieces, I utilized 1-1/4 inch blu-kote coarse washer thread screws.  It's holding very well together.  It doesn't hurt to experiment with scrap pieces.  There are general guidelines to follow with different types of wood, but they are not all carved in stone.  Have fun!

[Paul E. Pierce]

Is the "Material Thickness" the wood your screwing into, or the material you drilled the pocket hole in?

Thanks... Paul

KregRep said:

".......Hi Tony. When joining 3/4"-thick material to 3/4"-thick material, it is actually best to use a 1-1/4" Kreg pocket-hole screw. You will then need to make sure your K4 is adjusted to the 3/4" setting. Perhaps that is where your mix-up occurred. Here is the Kreg Screw Chart for future reference:....... "

Thanks for posting, and good luck!
KregRep