Kreg Owners' Community

Hello, this is Raj and I just joined this community. I had a chance to scan the various sections of the community page and I am glad I joined - people are very knowledgeable, polite and friendly.   I look forward to learning much from this community.

I am an intermediate DIYer. Over the years have added (2) bedrooms, put a cedar tongue & groove wood ceiling in our 24'x24' family room. I am interested in building some projects using the Kreg pocket hole system. I would like some advice on tools. I have had an old Craftsman circular saw and a cordless Black & Decker 14 V cordless drill and have used them quite extensively. With so many options, can I get some help in what would be a good choice for a 7-1/4 " corded circular saw and blades to go with the saw. I have reviewed DeWalt, Makita and Bosch. They have their strength & weaknesses. As we see advancements in lithium-ion battery technology, I would be interested in your views on 18 V or 20 V cordless circular saws?   Would you recommend cordless circular saws for weight advantage? 

Also, what would be a good choice for a cordless drill/driver. I am looking at Bosch 18V li-ion 3/8" drill/driver.  Should I be thinking of 1/2" v/s 3/8"?   Will either of them handle projects using the Kreg pocket hole system of assembly?   

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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Raj,

Cordless battery operated tools are very useful, and beneficial for many tasks.

Great for the homeowner and DYI tasks.

There are some HD tools, that are favored by construction workers.

 

Ryobi offers several a variety of 18V cordless tools, they’re economical, and are very suitable for the homeowner/DYI. 

 

Milw offers a variety of 18V cordless power tools, in the M12 series, that are very nice---they’re compact ---great choice for the DYI as well as for the tradesmen tasks.

 

A good quality 3/8” size drill-driver is the most universal,  for drilling-driving, and when performing tasks using the Kreg pocket hole system, as well as most homeowners DYI tasks.   (Bosch 18V li-ion 3/8" drill/driver---a great tool).

 

For high-speed drilling, 2000+ rpm is necessary to make smooth cut holes in wood.

Milw and Bosch offer drill-drivers, that are most suitable the HS drilling tasks.

 

I’m not familiar with a ½’’ size that produces high RPMs, as needed for smooth drilling operations.   Most  ½’’ size on less than 1000RPM.  A ½” size are most suitable for HD and construction use---they produce high-torque and low-rpm.  I have Milw and Bosch drills and hammer-drills, that produce 300 to about 800 RPM---another that is a VSR, and requires two-handed operation for boring in framing, timbers, and the like. 

With HD high torque power tools, they can lock-up while drilling and they’ll break your arms.  Use extreme caution when using these beasts.

Also, ½’ size is over-kill for drilling small dia holes, and driving screws.

(Many years ago, B&D made a corded HD VSR 0-500 RPM drill that was compact, and had a ½’’ chuck capacity).

  

 

Circular hand saw:

Milw Tilt-Lok model 6390-21, corded 7  ¼”, is a good choice.  Depth and angle adjustment can be made easily and quickly.  This saw is suitable for continuous duty use and performs very well for cutting 2x stock.

A fine tooth saw blade can be used for making very smooth cuts.   

 

There are several quality power tools on today’s market.  Many suitable for HD construction use. 

Peruse the desired tool you want and compare product specs---make your selection, to suit your needs.

It’s desirable to make your selection on the OEM’s service agreement---parts and service availability is something to consider.

Happy tool shopping.

Ken,

Thank you for your detailed response.  I will certainly look at the options you have suggested.  I noted your key point on the OEM service agreement.  Thanks

Raj


 
Ken Darga said:

Raj,

Cordless battery operated tools are very useful, and beneficial for many tasks.

Great for the homeowner and DYI tasks.

There are some HD tools, that are favored by construction workers.

 

Ryobi offers several a variety of 18V cordless tools, they’re economical, and are very suitable for the homeowner/DYI. 

 

Milw offers a variety of 18V cordless power tools, in the M12 series, that are very nice---they’re compact ---great choice for the DYI as well as for the tradesmen tasks.

 

A good quality 3/8” size drill-driver is the most universal,  for drilling-driving, and when performing tasks using the Kreg pocket hole system, as well as most homeowners DYI tasks.   (Bosch 18V li-ion 3/8" drill/driver---a great tool).

 

For high-speed drilling, 2000+ rpm is necessary to make smooth cut holes in wood.

Milw and Bosch offer drill-drivers, that are most suitable the HS drilling tasks.

 

I’m not familiar with a ½’’ size that produces high RPMs, as needed for smooth drilling operations.   Most  ½’’ size on less than 1000RPM.  A ½” size are most suitable for HD and construction use---they produce high-torque and low-rpm.  I have Milw and Bosch drills and hammer-drills, that produce 300 to about 800 RPM---another that is a VSR, and requires two-handed operation for boring in framing, timbers, and the like. 

With HD high torque power tools, they can lock-up while drilling and they’ll break your arms.  Use extreme caution when using these beasts.

Also, ½’ size is over-kill for drilling small dia holes, and driving screws.

(Many years ago, B&D made a corded HD VSR 0-500 RPM drill that was compact, and had a ½’’ chuck capacity).

  

 

Circular hand saw:

Milw Tilt-Lok model 6390-21, corded 7  ¼”, is a good choice.  Depth and angle adjustment can be made easily and quickly.  This saw is suitable for continuous duty use and performs very well for cutting 2x stock.

A fine tooth saw blade can be used for making very smooth cuts.   

 

There are several quality power tools on today’s market.  Many suitable for HD construction use. 

Peruse the desired tool you want and compare product specs---make your selection, to suit your needs.

It’s desirable to make your selection on the OEM’s service agreement---parts and service availability is something to consider.

Happy tool shopping.

Hi Raj, welcome to the community.  It sounds like you already have some experience with working wood and should find the Kreg system an exciting venture. 

In answer to your questions about saws and drills. I guess the bottom line is what do you like to have in tools and what do you expect the tools to do.  Everyone has their preference usually guided by their method of work.

What I have in the way of a circular saws are all corded as I tend to stay away from the cordless in saws due to the amount that I use a saw.  When I start ripping down material to reduce them to a more manageable piece of material I might rip as many as 20 sheets of 3/4" ply and this would take a toll on a battery operated saw especially when it gets some age on them.  The corded saws are a constant source of power through out the job.  I have the Porter Cable brand saws with the exception on one skill worm drive.  When I need to rip some hardwoods I will grab the skill saw as it is almost like having a table saw in  your hand.  True it is heavy but as you get familiar with the weight you will find yourself using the weight to your advantage.  With a good blade on it and the saw accurately set it will yield some amazing cuts.

In drills I like the cordless for driving screws when building cabinet boxes and other assembly tasks with pocket screws.  The one I like is the bosh 12 volt ion battery and it is a dedicated driver that has no drill chuck.  It is small and easy to get into small places.  I also use a bosh 12 volt ion battery powered drill for drilling in tight places.  It has advantages over the corded drills and also being small in size it had enough power to bore into hardwoods with a 3/8 bit.

I do, also as I previously stated in another post that I often use an air powered drill fitted with a bit to drive screws when I have a large number to drive and it is here in my shop.  Although it does not have the clutch I have no problem with driving my screws.  The reason being is that it is fast and if a person thinks about it when driving screws the best accurate method of setting a screw is by feel and by eye noting how the joint tightens and how the screw sets its self into the pocket hole.  This is because it is seldom that you will find two identical pieces of lumber or ply that has the same texture and resistance to the screw.  Even in the same piece of material it will have places where it is dense and places where it is also soft and often in in the best plywoods the plys will not react in exactly the same way.

Since the clutch in the driver tool reacts to the resistance of the screws entrance into the material and you are driving screws into hardwoods and hit a soft less dense fiber the screw will be over driven and bury itself before the clutch reacts.  If the other way around, and you hit a hard dense the screw will be under driven and render you with a loose joint.  This is why I never depend on clutch settings but instead use the eye to determine if the screw is set correctly.

For drilling pocket holes in the shop I use a corded 3/8" drill.

However this is only my method of work that works for me and others have their own methods of work so it depends on what your method of work is what you expect from your tools.  The only real advise I would give is to choose good quality tools and if you take care of them, you will be rewarded by a long service life and you will enjoy your work.  Best of luck to you in your new adventure and it is good to have you as a member.  If I can ever be of help, please contact me. 

Hello Jay,  thanks for your reply.   I gathered a couple of key points from your response.

  • Corded v/s cordless circular saws.  You have confirmed what I have read from other experienced woodworkers and I do intend to buy a corded DeWalt circular saw
  • Your use of corded drill / driver seems to be the way to go, though you mention that you drill  for pocket holes with a corded 3/8 drill.   Many of the Kreg skill videos show cordless drill / drivers doing both the drilling and the driving of the Kreg screws.  Any idea what size &  voltage do they use 18 V, 12 V?   The 12 V will certainly be easy on your hands if you are drilling and driving many screws.
  • Lastly, there was another discussion about the use of impact driver.  You may find the article in this link of interest.  It is from Woodworkers Guild of Americaa
  • (http://www.wwgoa.com/articles/one-great-tip/do-i-really-need-an-imp...)

 

Thanks, Jay

 

Raj


 
Jay Boutwell said:

Hi Raj, welcome to the community.  It sounds like you already have some experience with working wood and should find the Kreg system an exciting venture. 

In answer to your questions about saws and drills. I guess the bottom line is what do you like to have in tools and what do you expect the tools to do.  Everyone has their preference usually guided by their method of work.

What I have in the way of a circular saws are all corded as I tend to stay away from the cordless in saws due to the amount that I use a saw.  When I start ripping down material to reduce them to a more manageable piece of material I might rip as many as 20 sheets of 3/4" ply and this would take a toll on a battery operated saw especially when it gets some age on them.  The corded saws are a constant source of power through out the job.  I have the Porter Cable brand saws with the exception on one skill worm drive.  When I need to rip some hardwoods I will grab the skill saw as it is almost like having a table saw in  your hand.  True it is heavy but as you get familiar with the weight you will find yourself using the weight to your advantage.  With a good blade on it and the saw accurately set it will yield some amazing cuts.

In drills I like the cordless for driving screws when building cabinet boxes and other assembly tasks with pocket screws.  The one I like is the bosh 12 volt ion battery and it is a dedicated driver that has no drill chuck.  It is small and easy to get into small places.  I also use a bosh 12 volt ion battery powered drill for drilling in tight places.  It has advantages over the corded drills and also being small in size it had enough power to bore into hardwoods with a 3/8 bit.

I do, also as I previously stated in another post that I often use an air powered drill fitted with a bit to drive screws when I have a large number to drive and it is here in my shop.  Although it does not have the clutch I have no problem with driving my screws.  The reason being is that it is fast and if a person thinks about it when driving screws the best accurate method of setting a screw is by feel and by eye noting how the joint tightens and how the screw sets its self into the pocket hole.  This is because it is seldom that you will find two identical pieces of lumber or ply that has the same texture and resistance to the screw.  Even in the same piece of material it will have places where it is dense and places where it is also soft and often in in the best plywoods the plys will not react in exactly the same way.

Since the clutch in the driver tool reacts to the resistance of the screws entrance into the material and you are driving screws into hardwoods and hit a soft less dense fiber the screw will be over driven and bury itself before the clutch reacts.  If the other way around, and you hit a hard dense the screw will be under driven and render you with a loose joint.  This is why I never depend on clutch settings but instead use the eye to determine if the screw is set correctly.

For drilling pocket holes in the shop I use a corded 3/8" drill.

However this is only my method of work that works for me and others have their own methods of work so it depends on what your method of work is what you expect from your tools.  The only real advise I would give is to choose good quality tools and if you take care of them, you will be rewarded by a long service life and you will enjoy your work.  Best of luck to you in your new adventure and it is good to have you as a member.  If I can ever be of help, please contact me. 

Raj, thank you for the link to the impact driver discussion.  I found it quite interesting and I  agree about having the impact driver in the shop.  I use it for cabinet installation and any time I am needing to drive long screws suck as framing and modifications to the framing for hanging a cabinet(s).  I shy away from it for driving the pocket screws though as it does nothing more for the screws as there is not that much resistance to warrant a impact driver.  It is also larger in size and not as useful in tight quarters like the drill drivers.  I like to use the air driven drill for the speed and simplicity of the application when I am in the shop and building face frames and general cabinet box construction and have a large number of screws to drive that are of easy access.   The remainder of the time I use the small 12 volt ion Bosh driver due to not having to drag a cord or air hose in to the inside of a cabinet.

Yes several woodworkers use the cordless drill/drivers to screw their screws as well as use it to drill the pocket holes. They have great success with their methods.

Here again this is user preference.  I do not use the cordless driver for drilling pocket holes unless I am forced to do so like in the field and need to drill some holes.  The reason being is that I use a large amount of hard woods like oak, maples and hickory and find that cordless will wear down in power if I use them for this application.  I prefer to use the corded 3/8 drill as I like to have the ability to control the speed of the bit cutting the material and  the corded drill allows me to have a constant amount of power of which I can control using the variable drill.   Even using the 18 volt cordless drill the battery will soon wear down and dies before I am finished with most drilling jobs. 

I know that even the ion battery of my 12 volt drill will drill several holes but soon starts to loose power and needs recharging.  Something to consider here is the more the charging of a battery the less effective it remains as the life dies.  It only has so many charges before it starts loosing it ability to hold a charge and even reach the same percentage of charge.  The batteries are expensive where my corded drill will last indefinitely and easily repaired with maybe a new set of brushes.

Something to think about here too is how many holes does a wood worker drill and drive in a given period.  When I am in full production I have been know to drive better that a 1000 screws in a matter of a couple weeks or so.  This means that I demand a lot from my tools and one of the reasons I work in the manner that I do.  I'm not trying to sell anyone on my method as like I said earlier in the post, that everyone has their own method of work and demands on their tooling.
 
Raj Bala said:

Hello Jay,  thanks for your reply.   I gathered a couple of key points from your response.

  • Corded v/s cordless circular saws.  You have confirmed what I have read from other experienced woodworkers and I do intend to buy a corded DeWalt circular saw
  • Your use of corded drill / driver seems to be the way to go, though you mention that you drill  for pocket holes with a corded 3/8 drill.   Many of the Kreg skill videos show cordless drill / drivers doing both the drilling and the driving of the Kreg screws.  Any idea what size &  voltage do they use 18 V, 12 V?   The 12 V will certainly be easy on your hands if you are drilling and driving many screws.
  • Lastly, there was another discussion about the use of impact driver.  You may find the article in this link of interest.  It is from Woodworkers Guild of Americaa
  • (http://www.wwgoa.com/articles/one-great-tip/do-i-really-need-an-imp...)

 

Thanks, Jay

 

Raj


 
Jay Boutwell said:

Hi Raj, welcome to the community.  It sounds like you already have some experience with working wood and should find the Kreg system an exciting venture. 

In answer to your questions about saws and drills. I guess the bottom line is what do you like to have in tools and what do you expect the tools to do.  Everyone has their preference usually guided by their method of work.

What I have in the way of a circular saws are all corded as I tend to stay away from the cordless in saws due to the amount that I use a saw.  When I start ripping down material to reduce them to a more manageable piece of material I might rip as many as 20 sheets of 3/4" ply and this would take a toll on a battery operated saw especially when it gets some age on them.  The corded saws are a constant source of power through out the job.  I have the Porter Cable brand saws with the exception on one skill worm drive.  When I need to rip some hardwoods I will grab the skill saw as it is almost like having a table saw in  your hand.  True it is heavy but as you get familiar with the weight you will find yourself using the weight to your advantage.  With a good blade on it and the saw accurately set it will yield some amazing cuts.

In drills I like the cordless for driving screws when building cabinet boxes and other assembly tasks with pocket screws.  The one I like is the bosh 12 volt ion battery and it is a dedicated driver that has no drill chuck.  It is small and easy to get into small places.  I also use a bosh 12 volt ion battery powered drill for drilling in tight places.  It has advantages over the corded drills and also being small in size it had enough power to bore into hardwoods with a 3/8 bit.

I do, also as I previously stated in another post that I often use an air powered drill fitted with a bit to drive screws when I have a large number to drive and it is here in my shop.  Although it does not have the clutch I have no problem with driving my screws.  The reason being is that it is fast and if a person thinks about it when driving screws the best accurate method of setting a screw is by feel and by eye noting how the joint tightens and how the screw sets its self into the pocket hole.  This is because it is seldom that you will find two identical pieces of lumber or ply that has the same texture and resistance to the screw.  Even in the same piece of material it will have places where it is dense and places where it is also soft and often in in the best plywoods the plys will not react in exactly the same way.

Since the clutch in the driver tool reacts to the resistance of the screws entrance into the material and you are driving screws into hardwoods and hit a soft less dense fiber the screw will be over driven and bury itself before the clutch reacts.  If the other way around, and you hit a hard dense the screw will be under driven and render you with a loose joint.  This is why I never depend on clutch settings but instead use the eye to determine if the screw is set correctly.

For drilling pocket holes in the shop I use a corded 3/8" drill.

However this is only my method of work that works for me and others have their own methods of work so it depends on what your method of work is what you expect from your tools.  The only real advise I would give is to choose good quality tools and if you take care of them, you will be rewarded by a long service life and you will enjoy your work.  Best of luck to you in your new adventure and it is good to have you as a member.  If I can ever be of help, please contact me. 

An impact-driver in the hands of an unskilled user, 

is an invite to problems.

Hi Raj,

I've got the 20v DeWalt drill and the impact driver, and love them both. These are the "regular" style, not the new brushless ones. Very well built, and they feel very balanced in my hand. Much more so than my old craftsman!

I would say go to your local store and see if you can hold either of the models you're considering before making a final decision.

I think it's hard to go wrong with any of the top tier manufacturers today. 

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