I'm curious to know why Kreg doesn't make 1.75 inch length screws. Specifically in the blue kote style.
I'm joining a .75 inch board to a 2x4 and was able to get by using the 1.5 inch screws. But having a 1.75 inch would have been perfect.
Anyone know why Kreg doesn't have this length available?
Using 2'' screws, will provide more thread engagement.
Oh I agree Kevin.
But using the 2 inch screw causes the screw to protrude through the .75 inch piece. And while I could easily cut off the tip of the screw that's sticking out, I'd rather have a screw that works better for the job. Hence my desire to use a screw with a length of 1.75 inch.
You raised some questions in my mind though. If I don't sink the 2 inch all the way down the pocket hole (preventing the protrusion of the screw tip), would this still provide a good, solid joint? I was under the impression that the screws have to be sunk all the way to bottom of the pocket hole for them to work properly. Or maybe I should be using a shallower depth for the pocket hole in the 2x4. I'm using the correct setting on the bit and the jig's depth collar for 2x4 thickness, but do you think I should try using a shallower depth?
As always, all opinions and ideas are welcome and appreciated. :)
The topic states ''joining 3/4 to 2x4 stock’’,
which implies, to me, that the pocket hole is in the 3/4 stock, and
the screw threads engage into the 2x4 stock.
(Kregs screw guide suggests using 2” long screws).
Personally, I haven’t found a need for a 1 ¾” screw for the application, as described herein.
The 2’’ works great for me---I wouldn’t buy the 1 ¾’’ screws.
Drilling a shallower pocket hole, will provide a solid joint, when the screw threads are fully engaged, as intended.
The drilling jig is a guide. The collar setting on the drill bit, dictates the drilled hole depth.
The underside of the screw head, when seated, bottoms-out into the counterbored hole.
When installing a pocket hole screw, I attempt to have the threads fully engaged into the workpiece, so as to obtain optimum holding power.
Threads only engaged half-way, will result in less holding power.
NOTE: drilling too deep, will result in less material, from the underside of the screw head and the back side of the workpiece, where the screw exits.
This will occur, with any screw with the head recessed in a counter-bored hole.
Make some sample test piece, with counter-bored holes at various depths.
Insert a screw, of the same length, in each hole, and observe how much the screw is protruding out the far-side.
This will give you a visual.
It’s good practice to use the correct screw head style, for the intended application.
Use the Kreg ‘’maxi-lock’’ head style screw . The underside of the screw head, has are larger surface bearing area.
I’d recommended making sample test pieces, before commencing onto the final project piece.
After completion of the test pieces, the screws can be removed and reused.
NOTE: If one is planning to affix 2x stock to ¾’’ stock, I’d use 1 1/2’’ screws with jig setting at 1 ¼,
and make a test piece.
PS---there’s a different between a ‘’goes-into’’ and a ‘’goes onto’’ ;)
I'll look into (or is it 'onto' :P ) the 1.25 inch jig setting.
Thanks Ken, I really appreciate the help.