Kreg Deck Jig - 800 Screws later

[Eddie Longest]

Just finished  my first deck using the Kreg Deck Jig. It was a 12' X 16' built using 5/4" salt treated decking. It takes longer than face screwing the decking but it was well worth the extra effort in appearance. Sorry no pictures since camera is not currently functioning.

 Comments and suggestions.

1. I normally use a stand up auto feed deck screw drill, you have to get down on the deck with this system. Start with using knee pads and gloves. A fan and canopy is optional for hot sunny summer days.

2. With 1600 drill actions use the two lightest battery powered drills you can find that will do the job. I used a light plastic tray to keep the two drills and screws together and slid it down the deck as I worked. I also kept a wide chisel in the tray for spreading boards apart.

3. I had to stop numerous times to retighten the stops on the bits. Next time I will cut copper tubing and place between the stop and the hex end of the bits,

4. Since it takes a while to screw the deck down and if you have several people working, it will pay you to put deck board border on the end of your deck boards. With having the border in place others can be building and attaching the rails while the deck is being screwed down.

5. If you want a good solid attachment you need to sweep the sawdust off your joist prior placing your next board in place. Also downward pressure is needed for uneven and low joist.

6. Salt treated boards are seldom straight. This is the method I used to deal with the bowed baords. Attach one end of the board to two joist using your spacers. The other end of the board should be pointing away from your attached boards. While working alone I went to the other end of the board and pulled it tight to another spacer on the next to last joist. I clamped it by placing a wonder bar short edge between the last two attached boards the pulled the board tight using a18'-24" clamp.

I used my wide chisel to spread the boards to place in the spacers if needed as I went along. Then start attaching the board moving toward the unsrewed clamped end.

7. Spacers work best when placed between the joist. If the spacer is on or near a joist you can't drill and attach a screw to that joist.

8. You will devise your own pattern of attaching the deck screws. What worked best for me was to deal with three joist at a time. I would drill both sides three joist at a time. Then change drills pick up six screws and attach the three outside then the three inside screws. Then slide my tray down the deck and repeat the process a hundred + times. With the great visibility of ther jig don't be afraid

to dill the holes first and insert the screws later.  Don't worry you get better with pratice.

 

Other than the hex head drill bit problem (see recall ) and the moving stop problem the system worked as advertised. The deck looked great and was worth the extra effort.  I am withholding final judgement on the holding power until the salt treated boards experience about a month of sun and rain. The Kreg salt treated deck looks far better than a face screwed composite deck.

Hope this helps other users.

Eddie Longest   

 

 

 

[KregRep]

Thanks for your thorough review, Eddie. Much appreciated, and many here will appreciate having your experience so clearly laid out. Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts. Glad the Kreg Deck Jig worked out for you! Do you happen to have any photos of the finished deck?

Good luck and good woodworking,
KregRep

[Eddie Longest]

One more note/comment: The deck screw driver bit is different than the standard square drive Kreg bit. Instead of a square drive it appears to be a mini star drive bit. The add for the 500 screw deck pack said a bit would be enclosed but there was only screws in my sealed screw container. I tried Lowes and several internet sources but I have not located a replacement deck driver bit.
Eddie Longest