I am adding some pegboard to the side of the cart.

[Gary roofner]

Question is should I use 3/4 or 1 1/2 to mount the pegboard to for clearance for hooks? I have posted pictures.

[Ken Darga]

3/4" thick x 1-1/2" wide furring strips, or the like, will suffice.

Locate the strips, over ''one'' row of holes.

You don't want to cover 2 rows of holes---so as to maximize the use of the holes.

 

If you decide to use 3/4 x 3/4 stock, center it between the holes---however, drill pilot holes for the screws you're using to fasten the strips, to prevent the strips from splitting.

 

NOTE: Holes spacings, in pegboard, are on 1" centers.

 

Also, 1/2" long ''tubular shaped standoffs'', can be obtained.  They do nicely, as spacers behind pegboard.

You can purchase these, or make them from 3/4" dia dowel stock---cut to 1/4" long---drill a 1/4" clearance hole in the center, to clear the mounting screws used to secure the pegboard.

 

The tubular shaped standoffs are a little trickier to use, but can be done, with proper pre-planning.

 

TIP:  use hot-melt glue to attach the spacers to the back side of the pegboard---centered over the applicable holes, that you select, to secure the pegboard---apply the glue to the end of the spacer wall---a thin bead of glue will suffice---you don't want the glue to interfere with screws going thru the hole in the spacer.

 

Mark the front side of the pegboard, where you'll be putting the mounting screws---insert a #8 drywall screw into the hole on the front side of the pegboard, (the screw will suffice as a pilot for the spacer)---the point of the screw will be extending out the back side---place the spacer over the screw, on the back side of the pegboard, glue the spacer in place, then pull-out/remove the screw after the glue sets.  You're only using this screw as a pilot, to locate and glue the spacers in place.

 

The spacers will work out much better, over using 1x stock, which will permit max use with the pegboard.

 

If you have a solid surface behind the pegboard, I'd put spacers 6" apart around the perimeter of the pegboard, for added support, and a more rigid platform.

 

I'd recommend 1/4" pegboard for a more rigid surface.  1/8'' pegboard has too much flex.

 

Works for me.

 

 

 

 

[Gary roofner]

Sounds good hadn't thought about that very good idea. Just getting a harbor freight probably get the hangers there. Former big furnature warehouse went out habor freight moving in.

[Fins59]

Another little tip on pegboard......if at some time you decide to paint it, don't use a brush....spray it on with a rattle can.   By brushing you will clog up 95% of the holes and if you want it to look good you'll have to poke the paint out of each hole.   I found this out the hard way.

And as Ken said, use 1/4".  1/8" is too flimsy.

I took a standard 6 shelf Gorilla shelf unit from Sam's Club and covered three sides with peg board and have an open front with doors on top and bottom and a bench top in middle with an open shelf under the top.  Found this idea in Workbench Magazine.  Works really well.  When I learn how to post pictures on here I'll put it on.

[Ken Darga]

I've spray painted pegboard---it worked okay---but, lots of ''over-spray'' will result, without some form of covering the adjacent areas/surfaces.

When spray painting, I'd spray paint the pieces, before assembly/installing to the intended unit.

 

Prime the pegboard, before the final paint color is applied.

 

Personally, I preferred to use a short nap roller, to apply the paint---cleaner--- no overspray.

Only a small amount of paint got into the holes, and it was easy to remove the paint from the holes, when inserting the pegboard hooks.

 

I've painted lots of pegboard, used in store displays, that had long term satisfactory results.