Hi all anyone had any experience with Freud sawblades?After not having much luck finding a new 48tooth blade for my Metabo mitresaw,i figured i would look for a readily available alternative.When i was in construction seems years ago now ,all the chippys were useing freud blades.So i went and ordered one online,my saw has two small locating holes in addition too the arbor hole.The freud blade came with the same holes but when i went to fit the blade the two smaller were too small.Frustrated i started too look at it more closely turned out there was a bit of metal swarf in the holes.So i carefully reemed the holes out and hey presto a perfect fit,and wow what a blade cuts like a knife thru butter and such a clean cut i am impressed,all bar the hole issue Freud for me from now on.Have had no problems getting blades for my Dewalt tablesaw and fairly cheap so i guess if your in the market for a new machine see how readily available spares are and at what cost before you buy.[Lesson learned here].
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Here you go Mike Andri at Diablo said to gave you this.
If you want to reach the sales department try one of the below channels.
Website contact form:
http://www.freudtools.com/t-contact.aspx
Email:
customerservice@freudtools.com
Phone:
(800) 334-4107
Hi david thanks for that link,hows things with you?
Hi Mick,
I have several Freud and Diablo carbide tooth blades---
6, 7-1/4 and 10'' blades---
regular and thin-kerf blades---
24, 40, 60 and 80 tooth versions.
For ripping and cross cutting in wood---
also, their 6'' dado blades.
They all perform well.
I use the blades in various power saws---circular hand saws, straight and angle, miter-slide saws and table saws.
Their metal cutting TCG blade, produces nice square and flat cuts in wood---
without those tiny ridges produced by most ATB saw blades.
Freud's Premier-Fusion blade produces a glass smooth finish, in rip and cross-cuts.
It also gives a flawless top & bottom finish in veneered plywood, hardwoods, and melamine.
They say the double-side grind, is key.
I'm impressed with the smooth cut this blade produces.
Re the arbor hole.
The saw blade plate should fit snug onto the arbor---NO PLAY---do not force fit.
You may give it a slight wobble to fit it onto the shaft.
Rotating the saw blade forward and backward, a short travel should be enough.
(It's not a loose fit, akin to a golf ball dropping into the cup).
The hole is machine punched into the saw blade plate.
A very slight burr can occur on the trailing edge of the punched hole---
the hole is punched before the teeth are fused and ground.
The burr may be ''up'' on some blades and ''down'' on others.
This burr can be easily removed, using a machinist half-round smooth-cut file---
making very light and even forward filing passes---
just enough to remove the burr---''do not'' make a chamfered hole.
(The edge can be examined with a 2 1/2 power magnifier, as needed, to view the edge).
Are you using standard or thin kerf blades?
Thanks ken standard blade,your info always helpful.Was a bit of swarf sorted now and very impressed with my first Freud blade.
Mick,
Which blade model did you get?
michael evans said:
Thanks ken standard blade,your info always helpful.Was a bit of swarf sorted now and very impressed with my first Freud blade.
Hi ken,believe the freud blade a lp30m would that be the model number?Its a ten inch blade or as we work in millimeters here a 216mm .Not up too much on technical info,all i know it cuts lovely have a good day .
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