drilled too deep... right into jig

[joel adler]

Oops, I set the jig and the drill collar wrong and drilled 2 holes clean through the wood and right through the blue plastic. I can see the clamp rods through the holes but the drill stopped just short of them. Any ideas about how to plug the holes to keep sawdust out or do you think it won't bother anything down the road if I just leave them as-is? I don't want to put any glue in the holes since it might drip in and effect the clamp operation. And, I can't just tape over them since that would cover the embossed numerals and lines in that area.  Thanks for your advice.   Joel

[Dale Oster]

Maybe some oversized rivets might plug the hole.

[Ken Darga]

''BONDO"...

[Ken Darga]

''schalks wood putty''...

[joel adler]

Great ideas. The vac sounds like the simplest place to start. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. 

[Edward Reifinger]

A good set up tool and a reminder to set stop corectly.    I lay a dime on the jig and let the drill rest on it.  This gives you a perfect little dimple hole on the end of board everytime. 

[mark Reagle]

I just did this last week, i almost wanted to cry, but it still works fine and mistakes is how you learn.  I'm going to try the dime trick.

[Rick]

Perhaps a half dollar is better.  I read that those "dimples" were not such a good thing since they could hold the boards apart.

I think using a spacer is easier for lining up the collar anyways.

[joel adler]

I don't understand the discussion about the dime/half dollar/dimples. Exactly where do you "lay a dime" and why?

[Rick]

Joel, using the K3 or K4 with the drill guide set for your wood thickness, insert the drill into one of the guide holes.  (No wood clamped in place.)  Loosen the lock collar. The drill will bottom out on the Kreg jig base.  Slide coin or spacer under the end of the drill to lift it off the base.  Tighten lock collar.  You are now set up to drill!

[joel adler]

Thanks Rick. What is the benefit to this "spacer" idea over using the standard Kreg approach? Is this just more foolproof, or does it improve the joinery? I'm new to pocket holes and I'm anxious to learn. Thanks for your explanation. 

[Edward Reifinger]

  Joel   It is just a little trick taught to users to help them from doing what you did.  :) 

[Rick]

Like Edward said, and it seems easier to adjust the locking collar this way.  Sometimes it just makes the adjustment more understandable, and then "fine-tunings" for unique combinations are more foolproof.

The goal is for the drill not to push the wood out -- the dimple -- because then the two boards might not seal up tight.  Either method is fine, and accomplishes the same thing.

I encourage you to get a bunch of screws and try different combinations of wood.  Try it with and without glue.  Try to bust the joints apart, and see how strong they are.  That's the best way to become proficient.

joel adler said:

Thanks Rick. What is the benefit to this "spacer" idea over using the standard Kreg approach? Is this just more foolproof, or does it improve the joinery? I'm new to pocket holes and I'm anxious to learn. Thanks for your explanation.