Cramped shop needs table saw

[Tim Hadaway]

Anybody have insight into the Bosch 4100DG-09 table saw? I have a garage shop. Portability would be nice, but I am concerned about accuracy. I have searched high and low and can't find anything written about fine tuning this saw. Any help would be appreciated. Hoping to buy this weekend.

Tim H

[Jason Watkins]

If you're cramped for space in the shop, a radial arm saw can be fully utilized whilst backed against a wall. Probably a moot point now, since you've already bought the TS. Make some cool stuff!

[Tim Hadaway]

Bravo....that looks like one nice set up.....I have cut out some cornhole boards that I am building for several people and so far, with the equipment that I have to check with (framing square, combination square, tape, etc.....all of my cuts are dead on.....Most of my projects don't require the precision that a lot of folks here require....I may someday get to that level....just not sure if I have the patience to do it....that takes a special breed to be able to worry about the 64th's.....lol......I am doing good to worry about 1/16's.....but I do love my new toy!!!!!

BRAVOGOLFTANGO said:

Tim congrats, you're going to love this TS.  I'm building my own zero-plates for the rip blades & dado stack this weekend.  Next week my VerySuperCoolTools T-Square/80/20 Extruded Alum fence should be here.  I'm upgrading the RIGID fence to a no-nonsense fence designed after the infamous Besyemer design (spellcheck). Requires replacing the "ok" guide rails to 1/4" x 3" x 3" angle iron and also using 3 x 3 1/8" square tube steel, which is inexpensive, few hole drilling, etc.  This setup is dead-on square vs the RIGID and even the $2,500 Steel City & other super expensive tablesaws.  The t-square is a beast and the extruded alum from a company called 80/20 allows for any type of jig you can imagine as you advance in woodworking, you may be a pro already for all I know.  Anyway I can set my Rigid fence square with the best of them, including squaring the cast-iorn top to the arbor (recommend checking the factory work), but the fence still gets a little flimsy over time akin to the most expensive saws I played with. 

Enjoy your new toy sir, it's awesome!

Here's some details on it.

http://vsctools.com/shop/table-saw-fence-system/

Tim Hadaway said:

Well guys.....I pulled the trigger today. I decided to go with the Rigid 4512.....not quite as compact, but it will still fit when I get everything organized. I got it for $499 at the big orange. I live on the south side of town and had to go to the north side to pick it up, but fortunately traffic was not too bad getting there on a Friday afternoon...coming back was a bear. I also opted for the Diablo 60T fine finish blade. Any input would be appreciated on that as well. Should I put a damper on it...zero clearance throat plate....etc? I do appreciate all replies and happy woodworking to all of you guys.

TH

[Tim Hadaway]

I agree Jason and for several years did all of my projects with an old R/A saw that a friend of mine did not want anymore.....I chose the T/S for the sheer safety factor....I never was completely comfortable ripping on a radial arm saw.....they are awesome for other cuts though. Thanks for the response.

Jason Watkins said:

If you're cramped for space in the shop, a radial arm saw can be fully utilized whilst backed against a wall. Probably a moot point now, since you've already bought the TS. Make some cool stuff!

[Frank]

Hi Tim,

I am new to this forum and recently purchased a 4512. I was working on a craftsman for the last 20 years and was plagued with alignment problems for 20 years. So I purchased the rigid hoping to have the great cuts that the more expensive saws are capable of with the ability to roll it around in my small shop. Out of the box, I was not happy at all as the best I could get was .030. I was determined to get in that .004 range. Turns out that the rear trunion was bolt bound meaning there was not enough play in the mounting holes to get enough movement. My fix was to remove the rear trunion and elongate the mounting holes just enough to give me the extra movement. I am happy to sat that my alignment is now .002. It was a joy to rip cut a board and have it so smooth that it required no sanding. You may have found this link on fine tuning a TS, it was a great help to me. http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/tools/archive/2009/10/05/accuri...

[Tim Hadaway]

Thanks Frank, I had never thought a table saw could be bolt bound,  but I guess anything is possible....I have had that same situation with other things in life and work. I now know if I can't adjust any further I need to start checking the alignment slots.