Cedar Closet Project

[Edward Parent]

Hi Folks! This is Ed...

I'm a newby to this forum, but not to Kreg. My most recent aquisition is a K4 Master System which I will put to work assembling a Cedar Closet. This closet will be 3/4" aromatic cedar throughout.

My first concern is which is the best pocket-hole screw for 3/4" aromatic cedar. Will the plain ol' hardened metal screw do the job with no chance of bleeding or discoloration? Or would I be better off using the coated or stainless variety.

Number two... I plan on edge-joining 6-inch boards to make the assorted panels for front, side, top, bottom, doors, etc. What do you think of gluing the boards. The back panel, for instance should be 48" W x 66" T. With aromatic cedar being an "oily " wood, I am suspicious that most water-based wood glues would have a problem. Should I bother gluing the panels? Can the pocket-hole system be used for assembling shiplap boards? (Shiplapped?)

Number three... I may put a sealant/finish (tung oil blend) on the outside of the closet. I'm not sure how that will affect the movement of the panels. Should I leave the pocket hole screws loose to allow for swelling and contraction of the raw boards? (A 4-foot wide panel will have eight 6-inch boards.)

I am expecting the Woodworkers Supply pocket-hole plug cutter any day now. This will be very useful for the plugs I will need, I am sure. I've never seen cedar dowels. Do they exist?

That should do it for now. Take your time in answering. My little shop is not well heated, so I'm not spending a lot of time out there at this time of the year.

Thanks!   ---   EdP

[James P. Cottingham]

#3 - I agree with Douglas, if you are using eastern or aromatic cedar, don't seal them. You want the smell of the cedar.

#2 - I would shiplap or tongue and grove the panels to let them float better. You can use screws but you would have to back them off a bit to allow for expansion and contraction. I really don't think you need to glue them together.

#1 - If you do want to use screws, I would recommend stainless steal or Bluecote (sp?) . I'm not sure how the oils will affect nickel plated screws.

[Edward Parent]

Thank you, Douglas and thank you, James for the great advice.

I thought of using that 1/4" closet lining, but the last time I looked, both Lowes and Home Dummy didn't stock it! There a lumberyard nearby that has 4/4 aromatic in various widths. He suggested ordering 40% over to compensate, "because it's cedar, you know!" I'll be making it for a sis-in-law who is willing to pay for honest-to-god cedar boards! That's OK with me.

It's early in chasing material down. The plan call for 1/4" cedar plywood for the back panel. If I can find it, I will use it. That's an honest component.

This will be interesting. I've got all sorts of variables roaring thru my brain and I can't wait for milder weather so I can get this job started.

I really appreciate the response from you guys.

If it's worth a flip, I'll post a couple of pics.

[Ken Darga]

I would not use any glue with cedar.

Make ''tongue and groove joints"---

allowing for natural movement of the adjoining pieces.

  Lap joints will not result in a smooth surface.

  I'd use an air-powered brad nailer to secure retaining members in place.

  I would not put any finish on cedar for indoor applications---the natural cedar aroma is desirable.

Sand applicable exposed surfaces to the desired smoothness---

150-180 is adequate---

220 for areas subject to user handling.

For some exposed areas, the natural sawn appearance is more desirable.

Pay special attention to slivers.

  Normal cedar boards on 7/8'' thick---rough sawn on the back side, and finished on the face side.

  Tongue and groove cedar planking is also available---check your local lumber supply house.

[Edward Parent]

Thanks for the good tips, Ken. I've been dreaming about this project. I'll be getting the lumber this week. I've changed my mind about using cedar plywood. I've got a Freud tongue and groove set, and my router table will be busy. I hope to make this closet up with two-foot wide framed panels. The back will be double wide. I'll groove the frame pieces, and tongue and groove the horizontal slats to make the panels. I bought some spaceballs to permit movement. Each slat will be tongued on the ends to slip into the frame. The basic dimensions of the carcass will be 2' D x 4' W x 6' H. All slats will be horizontal, including the doors. I'll build the top and bottom with the boards running lengthwise for looks. Frame parts will be held with pocket hole screws as will the panels. btw, I cancelled the pocket-hole plug cutter from WS. They couldn't deliver. Kreg has cedar plugs. Duh.

[Ken Darga]

Hi Edward,

I like this material

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17400

  Cedar beaded planking, gives a nice appearance.

  Before installing solid cedar planks, remove the planks from their packages and place them in the area where they will be installed.

Allow the pieces to acclimate for a minimum of 24 hours prior to installation.

Like all wood, cedar will expand and contract as its moisture content changes.

This waiting period allows for this process and helps prevent warping or gaps after the closet is completed.

  Lay out the planks in the order in which they will be installed, staggering the ends for a random appearance. Set aside a few knot-free pieces to fill in gaps.

  Although cedar planks can be applied vertically, diagonally or horizontally, horizontal installation is recommended for most do-it-yourselfers.

  Place the grooved edge against the floor, beginning in a bottom corner.

  Be sure the first row is level.

  Have fun building this project.