I'm reading over the daybed plans listed here.
I have a question on step 2. It says "Then attach to bed ends with 2 1/2 screws and NO Glue." To those who have made a bed, what's your opinion on these two questions?
(1)How many screws to use on each end? One of the others had a pictures with 8 or 9.
(2)Does she mean 2 1/2 in long flat head wood screw ? Something like this ? http://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-8-x-2-1-2-in-Low-Profile-W...
Thanks in advance,
I know what you're saying about the plans! I've tried using some and have spent hours trying to figure out: "just what does she mean there?" or "am I missing something somewhere?"
1. I would say 2 screws per end in each 11" space (1" from each edge board).
2a. Looking at the plan, it seems that you build the frame part on it's own using pocket hole screws. Once the frame is assembled you attach it to the parts you made in step 1 using flat head wood screws. Make sure to pre-drill the holes to prevent splitting - by the time you get this together the last thing you want to hear is that crack!
2b. The screws you chose would work, but those will stick out a bit unless you counter sink them.
These may be a bit more what you are looking for. You can get them with Phillips head or square (which work with your Kreg bit)
Hope this helps :)
When working with 2x4s you will want to put two pocket hole screws in the end of each board. This will allow for a strong joint. The screws she is referring to would be 2 1/2" pocket hole screws like the ones Kreg offers. The link you provided is cabinet screws, which are meant to be used to mount cabinets to the wall. These will have too large of a head to work in pocket holes. If you have any other questions please let us know and we will be happy to assist you.
Hi Rhonda and KregCS,
Thanks for responding. It does help.
I'll stay away from those cabinet screws. Rhonda understood my confusing post even though I may have mis-numbered the steps. Kreg makes a point as well about screw placement. Here's what I'm thinking based on what y'all said.
Step 1: Build the ends using 1 1/4 pocket hole screws.
Step 2: Add trim to ends
Step 3: Build the frame using 2x4's and Pocket hole screws (2a in Rhoda's post above)
The plan says "Attach frame flush to top with ends as shown in diagram using 2 1/2" screws."
Rhonda's suggestion of 2 of those "SPAX" screws into each 11" space to hold the frame to the end makes sense. I do not see how to use pocket hole screws to attach the frame to the ends. What am I missing?
I think you've got it!
A bit more explanation on what I would do (long winded - sorry)
Step 1: On the 2x4 frame: Use 2 1/2" pocket screws - set your base to the 1 1/2" setting.
Step 1.1: Pre-drill your pocket holes around the 1x12's on 3 sides - set your base to the 3/4" setting.
Step 2: I would change this: I would add the "decorative trim" to the 2x4 frame using 1 1/4" pocket screws ensuring that it is flush with the outside (face) of the frame - set your base to the 3/4" setting. This will be so much stronger than using glue and nails.
Step 2.2: attach the 1x12 to the inside of the 2x4 frame using 1 1/4" pocket screws using the holes from Step 1.1.
Step 3.1: Build the frame using 2 1/2" pocket screws (test it 1st - you may want to use 2" on the ones facing the outside in case they poke out some) - set your base to the 1 1/2" setting.
Step 3.2: Attach the frame to the sides that were built in steps 1 & 2 using 2 1/2" wood screws (flat head, not Kreg) within 1-2" from the inside edge of each 11" space. **Doing this will make it unnecessary to use Kreg screws to attach this frame other than the ones used in step 3.1.
Step 4 (suggestion): In building drawers, I have found that it looks better (and gives a stronger bottom) if you make a groove about 3/8" from the bottom edge of the drawer that is the thickness and depth of the ply you are using and then build the frame around it. (example: using 1/4" ply: make the groove 1/4" thick and 1/4" deep.) This way you don't have to worry about the bottom of the drawer coming falling off if anything heavy gets put in it. You are basically making a built in ledge for it to sit on. In this plan you won't have to worry about the holes around the sides: the ones in front will be covered by the face and (up to you) I leave the ones in the back unfilled just in case I ever have to replace the bottom.
Step 5: If you haven't noticed: I don't trust the strength of nails. I would drill 2 pocket holes on each side of the drawer (using the 3/4" base setting) to attach the faces. **IMPORTANT** - do this BEFORE you put the drawers together - trust me... it's a pain to realize after you have it all together and square that you forgot the holes!
I know it's long winded, (sorry) but I really do hope it helps :)
Let us know how it turns out?
No need to apologize. Thanks for expanding on the steps. I like your step 2 modification.
Step 4: drawers. I agree with you about routing (I think that's the term) a groove into the sides. Never did it before. Between your explanation and the following article, I understand that part. http://tombuildsstuff.blogspot.com/2013/01/how-to-build-drawer-boxe...
"I know it's long winded, (sorry) but I really do hope it helps :)
Let us know how it turns out?"
It does. Long story short, due to work and another commitment, I plan to start on this a little later this year. I plan to take pictures as I build. I'll definitely let you and the others know how it goes.
For step 4 I use a router with a 1/4" straight bit starting from the bottom edge where I want the bottom of the drawer bottom to sit. Do all of the drawer pieces at the same time to ensure that the placement on each groove is the same distance from the bottom.
If your groove is too tight (which mine usually are) I make another pass to widen it a bit so that the ply fits in there nicely (snug, but not wicked tight).
Don't know what kind of router you have, but mine has an attachable edge guide so I can keep it steady and ensure a straight line.
Happy building :)