1x3 stock and 1-1/4" screw came through?

[Michele]

Hi there,

I'm new at this but don't think I did anything wrong here. I did test fit which is where I discovered the problem....

I am working on a connect four board based on these plans:

http://blog.homedepot.com/diy-backyard-game-four-in-a-row/?crlt.pid...

I happily used kreg screws to join the bottom pieces of the tray (1x3 side by side) and also to join the leg pieces, also with 1x3 and had no issues setting the collar stop to 3/4" and the pocket "height" to 3/4" and using 1-1/4" screws.

For the sides of the tray, they say to use nails but being that I got excited about the kreg setup and since I could hide the holes underneath, I made an "L" by putting a 1x3 upright against the outside edge of the 1x3 bottom of the tray. I figured I'd just put a few pocket holes facing out on the tray bottom to hit the upright 1x3. Since I was in 3/4 stock and going into 3/4 thickness, I figured I'd use the 1-1/4" screws again but tested on some scrap pieces first. When I put the screw in, it just came through the other side of the 3/4 thick upright 1x3. I didn't torque it down particularly hard or anything and am wondering why this happened.

Is this where we just make a "field adjustment" and use a 1" screw instead?

thanks in advance and bear with me while I learn :)

[Ken Darga]

Double check your drill stop---

insure its not set too far up the drill shank.

If it's too far up the drill shank, it'll cause the hole to be drilled too deep,

resulting in the screw poking thru.

Option:

Set the drill stop a tad shallower.

If you use too short of screw, you will not get adequate thread engagement in the joining workpiece.

[James Vassil]

If you are using the drill guide block by itself be sure to put one spacer on the end and line up to that. You need the spacer for 3/4"  stock;

[Michele]

Nope, I'm using the drill guide in the jig itself and I checked the drill stop because my first guess was I didn't crank the screw down enough and it slipped. I don't have the drill torqued high but I'm wondering if maybe that was the issue. Too much torque or didn't stop the drill quick enough when I put the screw in.

James Vassil said:

If you are using the drill guide block by itself be sure to put one spacer on the end and line up to that. You need the spacer for 3/4"  stock;

[James Vassil]

When I fist started using my jig I was setting the drill stop to the end of the bit instead of the first cutting part of the bit. Also now when I'm working with soft wood I stop driving the screw a little short of full torque and finish with a #2 square drive mounted on a handle (https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-662-Square-Recess-Round-Shank/dp...). You will get the the hang of it and using test pieces is always a good idea.
Michele said:

Nope, I'm using the drill guide in the jig itself and I checked the drill stop because my first guess was I didn't crank the screw down enough and it slipped. I don't have the drill torqued high but I'm wondering if maybe that was the issue. Too much torque or didn't stop the drill quick enough when I put the screw in.

James Vassil said:

If you are using the drill guide block by itself be sure to put one spacer on the end and line up to that. You need the spacer for 3/4"  stock;

[Michele]

Thanks for the input. Sounds like it's just newbie learning vs something blatantly wrong so I'll just keep using the test pieces first to be sure. Can't wait to start my cooler project!

[Ken Darga]

Michele,

Peruse the instructions a couple times, to ensure you've covered all steps.

BTW---it's beneficial to make test pieces of the same material and size, before proceeding to the workpiece.

Michele said:

Thanks for the input. Sounds like it's just newbie learning vs something blatantly wrong so I'll just keep using the test pieces first to be sure. Can't wait to start my cooler project!