K5Drill bit too long for Draper 80001 drill???

[Russ]

I've just used my K5 jig for the first time this weekend (built a log store for the porch) and got a Draper 80001 drill to use for drilling the pockets.

The standard drill bit as supplied with the K5 seems slightly too long for the drill chuck; the hex shank stops the chuck clamping the rounded part of the shank/top of the drill bit - leaving it out of true and thus wobbling? Am I missing something here, or have I simply purchased a drill that has a chuck that should have had a "deeper" capacity?

I can see that if I were to grind of the hex shank of the drill bit, it would probably seat perfectly in the drill chuck, but I cant help thinking I'm missing something here...

Should the Draper 80001 take the K5 drill bit without any problems? I'd have thought so, or do I really have to grind the hex shank off....???

I managed to get the bit into an older cordless Blck & Dckr drill, and built the log store, but I'm flummoxed by the inability of the Draper to take the K5 drill bit....

Thanks.

[Russ]

Bump...

[Russ Haynes]

Why can't you just set the chuck around the hex shank?  That's what it's there for.

[Russ]

Because the hex shank extends far enough into the chuck that I end up with a bit of the hex shank AND the round shank of the bit itself competing for grip in the chuck jaws...

[Russ]

Doh! Foreign body on jaw of chuck - removed and hey presto. More haste less speed is the moral here for me! Thanks Russ for the reply anyway... appreciated.

[Russ Haynes]

Yeah, I still don't understand why you're jamming it the whole way down like that.  You could put it in just enough for the chuck teeth to grab, tighten, and drill.  This sounds like a misunderstanding with how to properly chuck a bit into a drill.  You don't have to jam the bit as far down into the chuck as it goes.  Only those three little teeth that come together at the end actually contact the bit -- there is nothing deeper down into the chuck that grabs the bit.  You could effectively chuck a drill bit using just the very bottom of the shank, which people do all the time in order to get maximum drilling depth.  No reason to turn a 4" bit into a 3-1/4" bit by ramming as much bit as possible into the drill.  Your hex shank can be effectively chucked into a Jacobs-style chuck with only the bottom 1/4" to 3/8" of the bit in contact with the jaws and work 100% properly.

Russ said:

Because the hex shank extends far enough into the chuck that I end up with a bit of the hex shank AND the round shank of the bit itself competing for grip in the chuck jaws...

[Russ]

Yeah I got all that - the depth into the chuck turned out to be a red-herring and the issue was the object in the chuck - when I hit this on Sunday I just parked it and went with the cordless drill thinking I'd misunderstood the Kreg drill somehow in combination with a new corded drill. No harm done and a very nice log store was the result. Live and learn.

[Russ Haynes]

Cool.  Glad you got it figured out.  We all have those lovely "duh" moments more than we admit.

[Russ]

Show me someone who says they haven't had duh moments and I'll show you a liar! Have to say, love the jig and I've got a hundred projects circling round in my mind now; lots of scope for more duh moments....