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I am look into making cabinet doors which why the need for purchase of router table discussion on forum.

AS always the Krig forum to rescue and  I received alot good information from

Justin waldron and Robert Melrose in help with shaker style cabinet doors. Robert you mention a coping Sled where did you get your's? Anyone comments about coping sleds anyone please? I was looking on router forums and some have made there own any brave souls out there that has done that?

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Hi Gary - about the best thought out sled I have seen is the woodpecker sled, but, at $130 +/- I would expect it to be. So far I have just used a large push block and the fence. Just made the push block out of 1x4x12's at 90* with a triangular hunk of BB ply in the center to keep it square. Clamp some scrap MDF to the pushing face as a sacrificial face and route away.
I was about to pull the trigger on the WP sled and a couple of guys over on router forums suggested I try this and so far haven't run into anything that suggests I need the sled yet.
JMHO, hope it helps.
I built a sled using 1/4" hardboard and MDF with a hold down clamp. My problem with the sled was 1. I have 3 profiles of bits, and I would need 3 sleds one for each profile. 2. after several setups, you get minor differences and you get more tearout , minor but more. For this reason I rather use a scrap block that I can change when I notice tearout.
A coping sled is the way to go for sure. You can make one, but there are models out there for $30 and up. A sled is really the only way to go the get the coped ends right on your rails.
Thanks Robert already ordered.
I tested new coping sled from Rockler worked great. I did the mods on the sled. I put 4 additional 6/32 flathead screws on two on the fence and two on the stopblock. The stopblock flexed when you clamped it, and and extra scews on fence for extra strength. No flexing now.
Here are a couple pictures of my first try on scrap pine.
Attachments:
Think surface planer. You don't plane your boards after your finish cut, you plane them before your finish cut. When surface planing, both head and tail ends of the board get chewed deeper than the rest of the board (the usable portion). The bad section is cut off and your part(s) get cut. Same goes for rails. Cut your raw rail boards to size (rail width). Cope both sides. Rip off the likely tear out. Then rip each rail to size. I use my fence as my guide across the bit bearing and use my miter gauge to control the feed. Depends on your table size, too.
Robert I screwed up I went 1/16 you told me in the wrong direction. I will not have a chance to try again until Thursday

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