Keep current table saw or use an older one

[Doug Nale]

I'm in a dilemma myself.  Probably 5-7 years ago my wife bought me a craftsman mobile 10" table saw.  It's fairly similar to the one they have now for around $300 but it doesn't have the laser.  It's a plastic saw base mounted to a fairly light gauge stand with some cheap casters.  The deck is aluminum and the extensions have some flex to them.   It does a so-so job of cutting but it definitely isn't a precision machine.

My grandfather-in-law has an older  craftsman table saw.  Exact age I don't know but it's probably from the late 70's or 80's.  It's in great shape, nice heavy deck, real metal construction.  It is belt driven.  Guides and fences are all in great shape, and feel very sturdy.

Both saws are 3 hp and 10" and probably more than capable of what I need them for.  I would have to put a mobile base on the in-law saw.

Guess I'm looking for some thoughts on which is a better saw.  I've had issues with the "new" saw with it's lack of a substantial base when trying to rip plywood by myself as the saw and base are very light.  In my mind the in-law saw would solve that problem.

Thanks everyone!

[Gary roofner]

I forgot Lowes has a blade I just bought a couple weeks ago on sale  around $38 its a $ 50 blade its from Irwin a new line of blades Marple 50 tooth combo the best blade I have used almost no sanding required. I bought mine from from Rockler for $38 plus shipping and taxes. If you have a Lowes $38 and taxes you would save shipping costs.

[Ken Darga]

HomeDepot has Freud Diablo saw blades blades, starting at $25, that produces a smooth finish that doesn't require sanding.

[Doug Nale]

I used 1 1/4" regular steel tube, square stock.  Actually HD didn't have enough of what I wanted so two of the lengths are 1 1/4" angle while the others are square stock.  It feels plenty sturdy.  If i were more patient I would have had all square tube.  I should probably take it back apart and put some paint on it but I don't know that this will see much moisture.

 

I used my jig saw to cut it.  I could have grabbed a porta-band from work to cut it and it would have been easier/cleaner but I did with what I had in the garage.

Gary roofner said:

Is that stainless steal or aluminum  the metal you use ? Thats 1 1/4 square stock? What did you cut it with?

[Doug Nale]

The 40 tooth diablo that I got was $27 or $29, under $30 for sure. 

 

I might have to look at the dado set.  Tough to cough up $100 for the diablo set.  I'm used to making a couple cuts and then having to chisel out the remants. 

Ken Darga said:

HomeDepot has Freud Diablo saw blades blades, starting at $25, that produces a smooth finish that doesn't require sanding.

[Ken Darga]

Doug,

A coat of black spray paint on the metal tubes, will protect them from oxidation.

Alternate:

a) a rust preventative can be sprayed on the tubes---an extension nozzle will assist in getting the material into the crevices/enclosed areas around the tubing, without having to take it apart.

b) boiled linseed oil will also suffice.

Doug Nale said:

>>>...I should probably take it back apart and put some paint on it but I don't know that this will see much moisture. .../p>

 

[Ken Darga]

Doug,

A good carbide tooth dado set is nice to have, if you're making lots of dado's, to justify the investment.

Making multiple cross-cuts, followed by chiseling out the access, is the way to go, when only a few dado's are needed.

For glue-ups, the dado should be pared, (using a paring chisel or the like), so a to make it smooth for a more effective glued joint.

(When making multiple passes with a saw blade, you get lots of little ridges---they need to be pared/made smooth.  Glue filled into those crevices will not result in the stronger glued joint).

I wouldn't put a 10'' dado blade on any table saw---''too large'' of a dia.

REASON:  blade dia x RPM  = SFPM.

SFPM describes how fast the cutting edge of the cutting tool travels.

Ex:  10" blade x 3600 rpm = 9400 RPM!!!  

Way to fast!  Can be dangerous.

Cutting tools have a SAFE range rpm---check with the tool OEM.

Some cutting tools are labeled with a "MAX RPM", just for that purpose.

(Akin to a grinding stone or cutting wheel---too fast an rpm may cause the cutting tool to explode.  Flying shrapnel can be hazardous to your well being).

There's also "cutter chip load & feed rate", to consider.

A 6'' dado blade will suffice nicely for most dado cuts.  You'll only be making shallow dado or groove cuts, and only be using the blade teeth that are protruding above the table surface.

Freud offers a 6'' dado blade---I got one from Rockler, awhile back, for about $60.

ALTERNATE:

Make dado's or grooves, using a router with applicable router bits, and an edge guide.

Dado's/grooves can be made using a hand router or on a router table. 

It'll make nice smooth cuts, without chiseling (paring) out the waste.

A router is a nice-to-have tool, and will be as useful as a table saw.

For many tasks, I use my router more than the table saws. 

EX: ripping a large sheet of material with a circular saw, and dress the edge using a router, 

makes for a smoother cut edge.  Very suitable for edge jointing.

Doug Nale said:

>>>... I might have to look at the dado set.  Tough to cough up $100 for the diablo set.  I'm used to making a couple cuts and then having to chisel out the remants.  /p>

[Ken Darga]

Doug,

There are mobile bases on the market, that accommodate 1 1/2'' stock, vs 1 1/4'' stock, 

as described/shown in the previous photo.

They have a much higher load capacity rating---some in the 500 to 800 lb range.

Some mobile stands rating is limited by the type of wheel that is employed.

 
michael evans said:

Doug a similar base to the harbor frieght one is equilvant to$130 here in the U.K.

[Doug Nale]

I have a router/table.  My issue always seems to be in setting up my fence to be nice and square.  Always seems to be a smidge off. 

I'll probably give the bare metal a quick shot black paint or at least some primer. 

 

I was looking at an 8" dado set, could have been 6.  I don't make that many and when I do it's usually for something like a drawer bottom slot.

[Ken Darga]

Re Mobile Base:

The less expensive versions are equipped with  "hard plastic wheels".

Some wheels are made from a phenolic material, which is brittle---

they're not impact resistant

easily chip.

very low wear resistance on concrete surfaces

When purchasing a mobile base, check with the seller, for availability of replacement wheels.

[Ken Darga]

Doug, 

When setting up my router fence, I don't worry about making it square to the table.

Anchor one end (left side) of the fence and pivot the opp end---this will allow for ''dead-on'' adjustment cuts.

Place a ''stop block'' behind the fence, on the right size---use applicable shims, between the stop block and the fence.

File card stock (.008'' thick) and paper stock (.003"thick). 

Use a push block or jig to move the workpiece thru the cutters.

Works for me.

Doug Nale said:

>>> I have a router/table.  My issue always seems to be in setting up my fence to be nice and square.  Always seems to be a smidge off.  .../p>

[Ken Darga]

Doug, 

I use my router table for making grooves for drawer bottom inserts.

Cleaner and faster.

Doug Nale said:

>>>,,, 

I was looking at an 8" dado set, could have been 6.  I don't make that many and when I do it's usually for something like a drawer bottom slot. .../p>