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Can I use pocket screws on a soft wood frame that will only be about 7/16" thick?

Thanks
Ned

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Ned,

I'd review the Kreg instruction manual and see what they recommend.

Then followed by making some test pieces, and determine if you get satisfactory results.

  1/2'' stock, is the thinnest I've used.

Thanks. The only thing I found in the literature says it works on 1/2" and up. I guess the trial pieces will be the determining factor.

Hi Ned - If I recall correctly, the washer heads are 3/8" diameter and the pan heads are 5/16" diameter (head diameter, not shank). Neither give you a lot of wiggle room with 7/16" stock. Ken has the best advise though, a few test pieces are in order.

Ned Trout said:

Thanks. The only thing I found in the literature says it works on 1/2" and up. I guess the trial pieces will be the determining factor.

I tried a bunch of samples using nominal 1/2 inch plywood (actually ~ 7/16 inch) using the micro (black) jig and the small diameter 1in long screws.  I was building some large drawer boxes and have no way to do the preferred dovetails.  I was not happy with the results.   I concluded that my best solution was a compromise. 

I used 1/2 in ply for the front and back, and 3/4 ply for the sides.   I drilled pocket holes into the 1/2 inch ply and screwed into the thicker sides.  Another thing that helps is to screw into the plywood away from the edges, which works out great.  The holes in the front are hidden by the drawer front, and the rear holes are hidden behind the drawer.  Thus, no pocket holes or screws are seen from the inside of the drawer.

That's why my favorite drawer joint is the lock rabbet. Very strong, easy to make and pretty quick. No special tools required, table saw or router table is just fine.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/loc...

Rick said:

I tried a bunch of samples using nominal 1/2 inch plywood (actually ~ 7/16 inch) using the micro (black) jig and the small diameter 1in long screws.  I was building some large drawer boxes and have no way to do the preferred dovetails.  I was not happy with the results.   I concluded that my best solution was a compromise. 

I used 1/2 in ply for the front and back, and 3/4 ply for the sides.   I drilled pocket holes into the 1/2 inch ply and screwed into the thicker sides.  Another thing that helps is to screw into the plywood away from the edges, which works out great.  The holes in the front are hidden by the drawer front, and the rear holes are hidden behind the drawer.  Thus, no pocket holes or screws are seen from the inside of the drawer.

Thanks John, I'll have to try the one on the left sometime.  It looks like I can make it on my table saw without running the wood vertically.


Someone else suggested a pinned rabbet.  Have you ever used that?


John Schaben said:

That's why my favorite drawer joint is the lock rabbet. Very strong, easy to make and pretty quick. No special tools required, table saw or router table is just fine.

Right Rick, I NEVER run stuff vertically on the table saw. My bad, I didn't review their instructions.

Rick said:

Thanks John, I'll have to try the one on the left sometime.  It looks like I can make it on my table saw without running the wood vertically.


Someone else suggested a pinned rabbet.  Have you ever used that?


John Schaben said:

That's why my favorite drawer joint is the lock rabbet. Very strong, easy to make and pretty quick. No special tools required, table saw or router table is just fine.

I've noticed those 7/16" veneers when I was looking at the 1/2 stocks, I would use the 3/4 fine panhead screws. I haven't used these but I would think it will be the best for your joinery. Amazon has them - 

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-Pocket-Hole-Screws-Panhead-Fine/dp/B0032... 

''Pinned rabbets'' is a suitable alternate to a dovetail,

and just as strong, when properly done.

 

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