90 Degree EDGE Panel Joints - How do YOU keep them from slipping?

[Tony Drago]

Hi All!

 Just tried first Kreg Pocket project in making a 30" x 18 " TV Stand from 3/4 Melamine panels.

Used the Kreg 90 degree right angle clamp but still got some misalignment when cinching up the screws. The regular "face clamp" couldn't really hold the 90 degree corner either as I couldn't really place it to hold that angle.

  Saw the nice "use a board to keep the corner aligned" tip in the

Kreg Jig® Skills: 90° Panel Joints

YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWI6QppYBFE&feature=related

but didn't find any way to do that on edge to edge joining and I don't have a large worktable or such. Just wondered what folks out in Kreg-land have been doing to keep those edges from going out of perfect alignment when tightening the PH screws without a real shop ?

  Thanks.

   TD

[ray vile]

Tony, I use the 90 degree clamp and dont have any problems, you can get one from lowes for about 30$

[kenny from Sundre]

Hi Tony;  Like Ray says, the corner clamps are # 1 choice. With out corner clamps, you would clamp a 3/4" or 

1" guide board to the  to the material that you are attaching the 90 degree  up right to, positioning the guide board so that the up right is in the position that you want. Then use another piece and position it verticly against the other side of the up right that you are attaching. Clamp both these to the first guide board, there by sandwiching the up right. That should keep the up right from moving while screwing it into place. Yes, you will need four clamps and 2 or 3 inch pieces of 3/4" plywood of proper lenght should work just fine to attach the clamps to. I hope this is clear enough to be of help to you,

kenny

[Jay Boutwell]

Hi Tony.  I made myself a few different sizes absolute accurate triangles from 3/4" plywood and  cut a oval hand  hold positioned where you can use use your hand to hold the melamine in an exact 90 degree corner.   I glued some 1/4 inch thick soft rubber to the edges of the triangles to grip the panels and preventing movement on the slick surface.  Lay the one panel flat on a bench top or on the floor and use your weight to hold the panels in position.  In extreme situations I substitute my hand for a cushioned clamp through the hand hole and clamp it  and use another triangle with a clamp on the other end.  If you are using the melamine glue (I use Roo brand for wood and laminate) before applying glue to the panes screw a pocket screw in place and remove it.  knock off the small amount of tear out where the screw entered the material apply the glue and install the screw again.  This will stop the slip of the panels.  On a large panel use more that one screw before applying the glue.  This will also allow you to check panel alinement before gluing or installing all the screws.  I have kregs angle clamp that you insert into a bored pocket screw but sometimes find it impossible to use and resort to this method.   Hope this helps.

[Geoff Simpson]

Rubber on the Triangles.  Huh!  That's a good idea Jay!  All this time...i've literally been reverting to brute force.  Which, as many of you will know, will require underpants wrecking strain on more stubborn shelves

[Jay Boutwell]

Well Geoff, I guess maybe that what the mean when they say, "I  gotta go home and do some staining work on my woodworking  project".  Seriously when melamine came out I though, "Oh great flattened fire logs with melted plastic on it," Over the years working with this stuff you have to figure out what will work.  It is so heavy you would think, "Aw it can't move." but it does and you find out it did when a piece refuses to fit and you have to lug the thing back to the table saw and adjust it.  Makes you wonder did I hear the "measure twice, cut once" right? Then you think. "it must have been "measure once and cut twice".  It is definately not my favorite of sheet goods but times has forced us to grit our teeth and use it anyway. 

 My big pet peeve with it is when you allow a small cut off to fall on the concrete shop floor and then step on it and you find yourself  flat on your hiney wondering what happened.  There was no "doom-e-saries" or "do-hickies" on the market at the time to remedy this problem so I had to do some of the "tricks of the trade" things.   This is how I figured out the rubber on the triangle trick above.  I got to thinking, "well my rubber sole boot didn't slip on the melamine, it was the melamine that slipped on the floor.  I tried it and it worked.  Been using it ever since  The best rubber I have found for this is the big wide rubber band that you can find at the commercial business supply stores.. I used contact cement to attach the rubber but don't streach it too tight of you loose its ability to grab the slick surface of the melamine. 

While I'm thinking about gripping, one of the best things that I have found for handeling  melamine sheets or any sheet goods is a tool sold right at Harbor Freight stores for about 4 bucks a pair.  It is the knit rubber palmed gloves.  It improves your grip, saves your hands from the sharp melamine cuts and knuckels from banging into things as you move the sheets about.  I often use a tight fitting pair when cutting on the table saw.   Because of the weight of the melamine pushing a sheet across the top of a table saw takes some pushing and without the gloves the hand(s) slip easy and could easily be right into the saw blade.  This happens even on a well prepared slicked up table saw top.  It also stops the little stinging feeling on your fingers and knuckles from the fly back of the plastic off the blade as it makes its cut.  I should not have to remind everyone to make sure you are wearing safety glasses when behind the saw.