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Built using my Kreg Jig- No glue joints! solid Cherry. Piece one of an entire bedroom set I'm building for my daughter

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Projects: Nightstand
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Comment by Cal Amaral on March 7, 2018 at 9:20am

Very nice. Done in the Greene and Greene style? Did you make the accent detail mortise and tenion or do you have a source or supplier?

Comment by William Valentin on August 16, 2016 at 10:56am
Kevin, This is unbelievably gorgeous! All with your Kreg jig? Unbelievable. Do you have plans you could share?
Comment by Rick on February 4, 2012 at 12:12pm

Thanks much guys!  If you were doing a painted built-in, would you still put some kind of sealer on the backs and insides of the cabinets and drawers?  I could use Zinsser clear shellac, Zinsser 1-2-3 primer, or zinsser Seal-Coat.  Any recommendations?   1-2-3 primer would probably be the easiest since I already am priming the fronts, and it has the least odor. 

Comment by Kevin Bergstrom on February 2, 2012 at 11:58pm

Sorry I misspoke- It is in fact General Finishes Arm-R-Seal.   Also, the shellac fills the pores of the wood so to equalize the absorption of the stain/finish so that the 'blotchy' look is virtually eliminated. I feel that a coat of shellac prior to finish on ANY wood can only help your final product.  Don't believe me go check out this video from Mark Spagnuolo at 'The Wood Whisperer'-

Again- thank you all for the kind comments.  This project is truly my first project of this caliber and I am excited to see what comes next.

Comment by Rick on February 2, 2012 at 11:34pm

The more I see that "cherry night stand," the more I like it.  What a great piece of furniture.

Comment by Rick on February 2, 2012 at 11:33pm

Thanks Doug.

I'll take mine with a side of shellac and a spit shine!

Question for you.  When you say, "I like to thin my shellac 50/50," do you mean the Zinsser shellac or is that a certain "cut." 

Sounds to me that you are not a fan of Minwax.  For too many years, I thought Minwax was the only finishing company there was.

Comment by Rick on February 2, 2012 at 1:53pm

Thanks Kevin.  I guess what throws me are the words "seal coat."   To me that would be something to do after staining, not before.  Is that the amber or the clear Zinsser shellac?

Do you consider all closed grain woods like cherry, poplar, pine, maple, etc. to be "blotchy," needing to use "seal coat" before staining?

Rockler has General Finishes "Arm-R-Seal" wipe on urethane topcoat.  Is that the same stuff?

Thanks for the lead about Wood Whisperer.  I'll check it out.

Comment by Rick on February 2, 2012 at 11:39am

Thanks Doug.  I'm more of a remodelor than a furniture maker, so the few projects I have done have been scattered over decades.  Perhaps my biggest frustration is having a shop in the basement garage and a wife with a sensitive nose.  I heat the garage with an open flame and that also reacts with finishes.  One time I sprayed a little poly and left the house, only to return just in time to stop the fireman from busting down the front door.  The fumes had set off the wired-in smoke detector ... ugh!

Thanks for the suggestions for staining pine.  I had given up on using it. 

What does rubbing the finish with #0000 do?   I have used it between coats of tung oil, but not after the final coat.

Since I don't have a planer or jointer, I am limited to what I can buy --S4S oak, poplar, pine, maple.   I do have a bunch of nice ipe, however, which I would like to use for something ...

Comment by Kevin Bergstrom on February 2, 2012 at 1:15am

The 'wood conditioners' or 'seal coat' products you buy at the big box stores are definitely no substitution for a good coat of shellac with one exception, Zinsser  ‘Bull’s Eye’ Seal Coat dewaxed shellac. It is a pre cut mix that is perfect for the beginner or experienced woodworker alike that does not want to mix flake and it is inexpensive.  I use it straight (un-cut) as a seal coat on all blotchy woods and it works great and provides a ‘depth’ to the wood that you can’t achieve any other way than shellac.   On this project I wiped on one coat and waited about an hour (it dries rapidly) then I coated it with General Finishes ‘Armor All’.  It is thin enough to wipe on and after 12 hours or so I add another coat until I reach 3-4 depending on the intended use of the project.  A little 0000# steel wool or 320 paper between coats helps give a tooth.  I must admit, I had a terrible time with finishing until I found some GREAT information over at The Wood Whisperer.  Mark makes this stuff simple for us to understand and even a hobbyist like myself can produce a great finish once we understand what these products are designed to do and how to use them.   

Comment by Rick on February 1, 2012 at 10:40pm

Thanks Doug!  I have used Minwax "wood conditioner" for staining blotchy pine.  I am assuming it is the shellac you mentioned. 

I thought shellac was just a sealer, and provided little protection. It's other problem was shelf-life and the need for mixing it.

Your thinned down poly sounds like tung oil, which I like to use.

I admit I am just in kindergarden when it comes to finishing furniture. 

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