Thanks Jay, for your response.  I'm new to the Kreg website, yet have very much enjoyed your kind and helpful postings addressed to so many, with such a variation of questions and challenges.  I am "blown away" by your items displayed in photos!  Amazing, beautiful work! If only I could produce such beautiful items!  I make log-style items, which require less precise workmanship, yet begin with harvesting of trees/logs and continuing to the finished project.  It's all very rewarding, yet I want to expand my abilities and variation of finished products!  Best regards, and keep the mentoring coming!

Greetings Jay:

Thanks for your kind comments. I think it is great that I connected with another retired officer who is an avid woodworker.  My last 15 years of law enforcement were in Lake City, MN where I live. I was Chief of Police. I was activated to the Gulf war and was injured in Iraq. The injury wound up ending my law enforcement career. I thank you for your friendship and look forward to having future discussions.

Sincerely;  Robert

I don't know where I came up with your first name of Jay rather than Tim. I certainly aplologize. I read with interest your article in the various electrical switches. I am wondering if it would be possible to get a copy of the plans for them. I like to make my own tools and items like the switches just to see if I can do it. It also cuts down expenses.

Thanks for your assistance.

Robert

hi jay, havent heard from you in while. hope you and yours are well. we are doing well here, getting ready for christmas and new years. shop has heat now. if i dont hear from you merry christmas and a very happy new year to you and your family. talk care

Thanks for the kudos Jay!

Jay, I'm really having a blonde moment when it comes to making doors. I have a router, handheld, but I haven't even opened the box!~ I'm thinking I could make some easy cabinet doors with beadboard and 1x4 framing. any thoughts? 

Hi Angie, there are many ways to make a door as well as many styles of doors.  Depending on the equiptment you have at hand will determine the best method to use. If you wish to use only a table saw  the simple door with datos and a filler block would be the easiest method.  It requires the cutting of a dato on all rails and stiles that run the full length of the stock.  It will require four small filler block pieces to insert into the ends of the stile at the corner joints.   It is possible to avoid the blocks however it requires percise stopped datoes cut by plunge cutting and lifting off the saw blade and then some chisel cutting to finish out the dato.

Since you have a router now would be a great time to become familiar with it and its use.  The bit you would require to build the panel door with the panel inserted into the back would be a 3/8" dato bit, also called a rabbit bit.  In this method you cut your rails and stiles and assemble them using a method such as the pocket hole.  Once assembled use your router and cut a dato on the inside of the assembled door frame. 

The two cautions here is to besure to bore the pocket hole in a position away from where the inter screw will be placed to prevent it from hitting your router bit as you cut your dato.  I would set it at least an inch in from the inter edge.  This bit will need to be the one with the bearing on the bottom as this is what guides the router around the frame as you cut.  The second and most important here is to feed the material into the bit and not the opposite. ( example here is to lay the assembled frame down in  front of you and with the back of the door up.  Set the router bit to cut about 1/4" deep for the first pass around the frame.  The router bit turns in a clock wise rotation so beginning on the left sit the rounter down onto the wood with the bit not touching the wood, turn on the router and feed it slowly into the wood. Iin a clockwise direction move the router around the inside of the frame.  Reset the bit debth to your final desired depth and repeat the process.  The corners will be round so here you have a choice.  Either cut the corners square with a chisel or cut your panel with the corners round.   Next process would be to insert your panel and attach it either using glue or silicone.  As for debth of the dato I usually use 1/4" panel and cut the dato 3/8 deep which allows me to either use glue or silicone to secure the panel.  You can also use small brads driven into the sides of the rail and stiles.  Once this is done you can plug the pocket holes with a short piece of 3/8" dowel and then sand flush with the rails and stiles.    You might also need to clamp the rail and stile frame flat to a table or other flat surface as it will tend to warp and I suggest doing this before your insert the panel and then let it fully dry before unclamping.  Warping  is one of the big problems with panel insert doors as there is not enough wood in the panel to keep them flat. if you wish to give the outside of your door a profile purchase either a round over bearing bit or a cove bit with a bearing.  Caution here if you do this you must run the router in the different direction  (now counter clock wise) as you have changed sides with the entry point of the router bit against the wood.   What happens when you do this is the bit hits the wood and wants to grab and can get out of control.  This can damage your work or worse damage you or another person.  You must always remember the bit rotation and introduce it into the wood so that your directions of travel causes the bit to feed into the wood.  The same principal as the table saw blade.  You are pushing yousr work into the blades rotation.  There are times when using a router that you may need to move your router in a direction where is in cutting with your direction of travel which is called climb cutting hower this is a dangerous practice and extream caution needs to be taken here.

I'm right in the middle of a hugh cabinet project where I will be building over 100 doors some of which will be over 6 feet in height  and will be all raised panel.  The upper are cathedral arch and the lower are square panel design.  While doing this I plan on doing a documentary of the process and will post it for members who  wish to see it.

If you can hold off on your door building until Saturday I will be glad to build a sample door of the the type you are describing and send you photos of the process.  In the meantime this would be a good time to practice on some scrap wood with your router.  Learning the use of the router will open up an brand new world of wood working for you. 

The idea you have is excellent and seeing how you have progressed in your ability and talent since stating woodworking I have no doubt that you will excell and be very good and making your doors.

I am always here to help you. 

Thank you Jay, I'm sure that we will have a lot to share & I hope you don't mind if I use your expertise to learn how to work my way up to becoming a craftsman ursh like yourself.  I can only hope to someday create items as beautiful as lhat you build.  Thanks again for accepting me, LarryD.

Jay, I'm looking for the plans for the "Auto Switch", do you still have them?  Thanks, Bob

n8oxh@yahoo.com

Jay

Thank you for sharing your video on raised panel doors.  It was great.  It will be very helpful to anyone that wants to build cabinets and feel they need some help along the way.  The cabinets you built are beautiful.  I hope they went in your kitchen.

George

Jay, I have an oldddd gentleman that lives near me, 2 houses over. He's legally blind, and asked if I could make a duck whirligig, the noise is soothing. 

I've scoured the internet to find out what that even is. 

I've figured out, no flat wings, they have to curve someway.

Do you have any idea how to curve the wings?> any ideas appreciated. Apparently, he had one before, long time ago, that rotted, and his gardener threw it away. 

thanks in advance, 

:) angie

Something similar to this maybe? http://youtu.be/ghiSN3w-B7Ehttp://youtu.be/ghiSN3w-B7E

I know the wings need to curve to spin fast. A little history, his wife passed 7 months ago, I'd like to make this for him, he never asks for anything. Today, came over with his aide when he saw me in the garage working. Please help me figure this out. thanks, angie

Angie what a nice lady you are to want to help an elderly gentleman.

The ones I have seen are made like airplane propellers.  These were very popular here not long ago as the Oregon Ducks were playing high in the football games and everyone was flying flags and wearing clothing in support of the Oregon Ducks.  Several had these whirley jigs in their yards and even small ones on hand held sticks and on auto antennas.

  The ones that were made of wood had wooden wings that looked airplane propellers.  I did see a couple whirley jigs where someone had actually taken the plastic airplane propellers off of a toy and added them to the side of jig sawn duck and when they were spinning looked pretty good.  What they had done was taken the propellers from what looked like the ones from a rubber band wind up toy and used a nail to attach them to the duck. When it was all painted up it was actually a classic way to make the jig. They actually spun fast in a light wind.  This would be the easy method but you could carve some from wood as well using a light weight wood and keep them balanced cutting the blades so that one would twist one way with the other one twisting the other way just like a propeller.

  Good luck with a nice peroject that will bring some happiness to someone.   Need more help please feel free to ask and I will make a sample.

Hi Jay,  It's Larry in Eugene, just a shout to say that I've picked up a couple of Kreg tools that really simplified drawer installation.  One holds drawer glides in place while they get screwed in and the other clamps on the face frame to hold the box while the glide is screwed to it.  I built a twin bed with 3 drawers under it and a 3 drawer cabinet using these.  Came out pretty good for an amature.  I'll put up some pics soon.  Hope this finds you doing well.  Larry D.

Jay, I'll be watching for those photos.  I imagine that they will be worth the wait.  Thanks for returning my note.  Larry D.

 Hi, Jay.

 Wow, What a beautiful kitchen. The owner will be happy cooking in that kitchen.  I sure love seeing your work. That red oak really blends well with the granite countertops. You really do great work. I can't wait until the rest gets put up. You sure do great work, Jay.

Jay, I have a small delema, I was given an older Mission style coffee table which has 3 small areas that the top veneer(hope that's spelled right) is split, they ere all split and hard. I can inject glue using a syringe. My question is, how do I get the veneer softened enough to reattach it to the table top?  You are my only hope.  I have tried to find help on line but my computer is kind of a dumb one.  Thanks for your time & have a wounderful day here in the great Willamette Valley.  Your friend, Larry D. (in Eugene)

WOW Jay, I just found your photos of the kitchen you did & all I can say is Wow that is Beautiful. You should be very proud of it. Larry D.

Thank you Dennis for the nice comment.  I do appreciate it very much.  The kitchen project is almost done now.  The contractor is supposed to do the back splash however I might end up doing it.  The windows need to be trimmed out yet not sure if I will be doing them or the contractor.  There is a custom 12 inch high crown to do  soon .  I'm currently working of some bath cabinets for the same house.  When it is done I will do a final photo take of the total job.  Thanks again.

Larry Is the table an antigue or an old reproduction type.  The old furiture was assembled using hide glue.  Hide glue is soften using heat and steam.  What I do if I wish to remove a piece held by hide glue is to take a towel soak it in water and lay it over the defect and apply a hot iron to drive some steam into the defect and surrounding wood.  If this does not work change to white vinegar allowing a little to soak under the venner.  Using a small thin metal spatula or putty knife gently lift the veneer as the glue softens.  You have to keep in mind that he moisture will swell the veneer fibers as well as th wood substrate below.  Once the glue is soften remove it from under the area you are wanting to repair.  The allow it to become completely dry before you proceed with the repair

Once it is soft and you can lift the damaged area inject some glue into the defect.  You might like to use a "j" roller ( used in laminate application) or a small roller used on wall paper seams to insure that the repair is flat and then weigh it down to hold the veneer down tight while the glue dries.

Be sure you remove any loose glue or foreign material from under the repair so it will be assured to lay flat.  If you use white vinegar you should attempt to remove any of the vinegar residue and insure that it is dry before you proceed with the repair.  Vineger will desolve most any glue so care should be used in it use and try to use it only enough to do the job.

Depending on the amount of the damage it may require a patch which can be done using a careful selected veneer and some careful grain matching and cutting.  the patch can be almost invisable if you are careful in sanding and applying the finish to the patched area.

If it is a table that is not of antique value you might wish to remove and replace the entire veneer surface. If so remove it the same way as described above using either water steam and heat or white vinegar and work the veneer loose.  Dry the surface and then sand and repair any voids or defects  in the substrate.  I use "bondo" which is an autobody dent filler and fill the defects.  Sand smooth and use contact adhesive to attach a new sheet of veneer.  Follow the directions on the contact adhesive container however I do not reccomend the water based type. ( it will swell the wood veneer) Use the chemical based adhessive.

The directions will tell you to apply a coat on both surfaces and wait until it skims over and dry to the light finger touch.  It looses it wet shine and becomes a haze look.  Be careful and not let it get to dry before you begin laminating the veneer or you will have loose veneer areas.  This is a one time attempt to lay so it has to be in correct alinement over the surface.

A trick I use in applying sheet goods such as counter top and or veener is to get an old metal window shutter. ( the blind type used indoors)   Remove a few of the thin metal slats  and cut them off to where they will lay across the table surface and extend out about 6 inches on each end.  Lay these on the surface of the table and just before you are ready to lay the veneer. ( don't use the plastic type as the adhessive will begin to desolve them) Once the slats are on the surface placing one about ever 6 to 8 inches gently lay the veneer on top of the slats.  The curve in the slats allows the bottom to only touch on it edges on the table top and only the middle section of the slat will touch the bottom of the veener.  Starting from the middle of the  veneer gently push down on an area that is not under a slat and allow it to firmly contact the table top and stick.  Then remove a slat that is near the middle and repeat the process.  Continue this working in each direction from the middle outwards until you have reached the ends.  Use a "J" roller to firmly attach the veneer and smooth out working  from the middle to the outside.    Check for any loose areas in the veneer by tapping

Jay thank you so very much for the very thorough & speedy response. The table is a cheap repop, but it will be good for my wifes coworker, a single dad. He will be able to get by for a few years with it.  So I think that I want to try the white vinegar trick.  After the veneer is removed how long does the vinegar thke to dry. Also really like the metal blind idea is golden. I have laid formica using cardboard strips, but they tend to tear if the contact cement is too damp.  My friend you are a regular encyclopedia of information, again thank you.  By the way what did you mean by I'm monitoring my responses& how can I turn it off?

Jay, 

 I sure like your dresser. I am really impressed with the molding around the drawer face frame. One of these days you got to teach me or walk me through the way you get your drawers evenly spaced and level with the molding and such. I have been still nailing away on the shed. I took a day off because of a terrifing event on monday morning. It really tore me up. 

 Thanks, Jay. I really need that cute line about the falling and the stopping. I really needed a good laugh. Thanks again for the chuckle and the explaining of your bead work on the chest. I will use that idea in one of my next projects in the months ahead. I like to learn different things from a seasoned craftsman like yourself. It makes me a better woodworker in my future projects. 

Jay, I have looked at many of your projects and I can see that you are a true craftsman and I like the way that you help other wood workers with their projects and share your projects! I also like to design and build my own projects, keep the photos comeing and thanks for shareing , JIM

Jay thank you for the comment on my bench  and table and the comment you left on my home page . It really makes me fell good to get a comment from a craftsman like you on my  projects !  And I am not sure about the delete  comment , I would never delete a comment from  a craftsman like you, as it means a lot  to  me. Thanks again and keep showing all of your great projects ! You might enjoy looking at  the photo that I posted on my light house this was also one of a kind, have a great day , jim

Jay I fixed  the delete thing forgot to click on the follow me thing, sorry.

 Thanks, Jay.

 I wasn't to sure if using the filing cabinet. I am glad I asked you about it. It sure helped me in figuring out where to put my flamables. I now can put it in the right spot and build my counter for an extra work space and drink area. 

 Jay, How's your project coming? Did you get any sleep? I wish I could see the chest you are working on. Send some pics I have never seen Tenn. oak before.

Thank you, Jay for the Smilebox of the Tenn. red cedar chest. What a beautiful piece of work you did on the chest. You are a Master Craftsman of your craft. I hope your teaching and showing me what to do to make a beautiful piece of a project, will inspire me to do good work and show the care and patience wish is needed in any project that we do as woodworkers. Thanks for being my friend and teacher.

Thanks jay for your follow up comments,computers have a mind of there own your right.Only the other day gary roofner said my finger jig photo disappeared before he could comment,do not know if it was my fault or what.All these little projects i hope too sell ,with the aid of my daughter .She does mosiacs,hand made cards ,and jewellery so were pooling our wares too sell.Can i just say your a great influence on the site and well respected have a good day jay, mick.

Thanks jay ,for your input as it still under guarantee its going back too a triton repair centre in the uk.

Hi Jay , thank,s for the glue up rack  sketch, I will check  it  out , look,s like you have a good set up with your rack  !!  How have you been , long time since we have talked , busy time of the year for me , Christmas Projects !!  Have a great day , Jim !

Hi Jay, How you been? I'm starting to build a 60'' round kitchen table, I'm using 5/4 hard maple and it's going to be a pedastool table. I also want to make it with an apron around 1'' deep. I was thinking about cutting a batch of 1/8'' strips and laminating them to some cauls that I would attach to the underside of the table. i was wondering if you might have an easier way of making the apron. Anything you can offer would be greatly apreciated.

Ray

hi Ray, been good just super busy.  Just finished that custom crown that I had talked about several months ago for that kitchen that I posted with the tall ceiling.

There are two ways that I would build a skirt for a roung table that is that big. They are:

1. laminating the strips like you talk about above.   This would be bending the strips dry with glue,  You could increase the 1/8 inch strips by steaming the wood in a steaming box.  1/4 inch thick would bend easily aroung a form and clamped until dry and then glued together again around the form.

2. Cut the 1" thick x 1" wide and to a length that would equal about 1/4 around the table.  Steam bend it and allow it to dry around a form and then put these together using a scarf cut joint. If doing it this way I would use a single piece that would go aroung the table keeping the pieces matched end to end.

The easiest is the first but the better look is the second method.   To make a steam box use a piece of abs black  plastic pipe with capped ends. Make one end cap using a threaded fitting which is also abs.  This gives you the method of inserting and removing the wood strips.   Use a wall paper steamer to generate the steam and introduce it in the upper side of one of the pipe and  drill a small 1/4 drain hole in the bottom of the opposite end.  This will allow the water to drain out as the steam turns into water.  Cook these for a good 20 minutes and test them for bending properties.  When soft enough bend them aroung a form that you can make using 3/4inch plywood and some 3/4 ich pegs that you can insert into holes as it comes around the bend.  pegs are easier and faster to install that clamps.  Let the piece dry for a couple days or until dry.  Don't use a hot heat as this will allow the wood fibers to seperate at the top of the bend.

Hint: I have used Donney brand fabric softner suscessfully to hasten the softening of the fibers an it has not harmed the finish.  I do this by placing the wood in a tub of hot water with fabric softener allowing the wood to soak for awhile before placing them into the steam box.  Have fun and post photos when you are finished.  I would love to see your work on here again.

Thanks Jay.  

I appreciate your kindness and the speedy reply.  Have a happy & safe holiday season.

Steve

 Dear Jay,

 I hope you return to normal soon. I think of you often hoping I can chat with you this summer or when you feel better from your shingles. My shed is coming along. Take care,

   Leslee

Hi Jay, I hope your getting better I sure do miss reading your replies to other peoples posts. I'm going to be launching a web site soon, gonna try to sell some pens on the internet. I'm working on getting an inventory built up. I have about 35 done so far and all my freinds and family think I could sell them online. I have sold a few of them all ready to people I know. The mountain house is keeping pretty busy also. It is a shame there is a couple thousand miles between us, I would think it would be great to sit down and have a beer or two.

Your freind on the east coast, Ray

Hi JAY , also glad to see you back on the site , helping other,s as you have all way,s done , hope you are feeling a bit better  , have a great day and get better soon , JIM !!

Jay, Glad your back.  Sorry to here about your illness.  Glad your doing better and look forward to seeing more of your beautiful wood work.  Have a great day.  George

Jay, Thanks for the wonderful comment.  It was a little tedious at times.  But I think that is what makes a project turn out to what a person wants.  Have a good day.  George

Thanks for that Jay, much appreciated.

Hello Jay,

Just a short note to say I have found Warren Downes the OZ distrubiter for Microjig, or more correctly he found me,via the site  great work thanks!!

hi jay  was looking alot at your cabinets pics and i would like to ask you  a ? about

how much space do  you leave between kitchen cabinets door were they meet in the middle is it 1/8

thank you for your time

and take care

hi jay  i thank you for all your efforts  and comments  lots information on door openning and upper cornor cabinet . did not realize about 90 degree issues

but now its build and all glued up i read all sugestions you made on how to build  two doors options i have to choose.  i will be building a cornor base cabinets 36 by 36 later on with a lazy susan . i also saw a video  u tube on a person  put a piano hinge and cut two doors were they meet at a 45 degree  and they both shut at a 90 degree. it looked and was build like mine at 90degree . still Learning something new . your post and information is well written and helps me to try to do the best i can and  i hope it helps others just like me to be informed  and take the time to read  all your post as i know you have helped alot here on questions and your  time and efforts on making those post are full great know how since you been  making cabinets for more then 27 years

its always nice to have a person of your  amazing skills  share information.

thank you again. will post  pics of kitchen  cabinets  later on as i go along

ty for your comments take care

Jay,

Thanks for responding.  I am wrestling with purchasing a router.

The Triton has a 3 inch router bit opening.  Have you ever run a larger bit with the triton running above the router bit opening?

I currently own a Freud 3 1/4 raised panel bit and it was expensive, so I'm hoping to still be able to use it.

Kelly

hello again Jay

I am not sure how many years we/I have been on the Kreg site but didnt realise although we have been communitating over the years had never needed to communicate directly.

It was only thismorming I sw all the messages and eagerly logged it to check them out, only to be dismayed with waht I saw posted. I was so upset I was going to reply then though better of it, I guess some people will never change and after reading your career background I am saying nothing new.

 Here is hoping they withdraw their remarks and make a honest acceptance it was out of line and end the issue. Mind you I think the member who saw my stupid post wanted me banned from the site! So justice can be quite harsh if you draw the attention, regardlless of intent.

Have a good day !!