What is the spacer bar for?

[Debora Cadene]

I have the M4 and when I watched the video that it came with, it shows them adding the spacer bar right away. Does it have to be there all the time,or is it for thicker wood? I'm thinking I need a little spacer bar help....

[Ken Darga]

  

Each spacer compensates for an additional 1/4-inch in material thickness, during various repair applications.

Use one block for 3/4" material, 2 for 1" material and 3 for 1-1/4" material.

Spacer Block slots are located on the underside of the Drill Guide.

Simply add the blocks to the slots, located on the bottom of the drill guide,

clamp the guide in place with a Kreg Face Clamp.

[KregRep]

As Ken said, the Drill Guide Spacer Blocks are intended for use with the drill guide in applications where you are using the drill guide by itself--not in the jig or in the Portable Base. Repairs would be a common application.

Use of the Spacer Blocks is covered in the manual. Here's a link to a brief explanation of the Spacer Blocks, as well:http://www.kregtool.com/prodimages/nk7688.pdf.

You do not need the spacer blocks when using the Drill Guide in the jig. The Drill Guide Pin takes care of positioning the Drill Guide properly.

When using the Drill Guide by itself, if you butt the bottom of the Guide against a piece, the guide will be positioned properly for 1/2" stock. Each Spacer Block you add, increases that by 1/4" of stock thickness.

Kreg Rep

[Debora Cadene]

Ok...so the spacer bar is for repairs. Now when you take the drill unit out of the Kreg, you just clamp it down, but then what the heck is the portable base for? I was only able to find one video on it and its somewhat REALLY vague.

I can't find anything else on its proper use. AND to make things even more confusing for myself...on the portable base, there are marked scribes on it for different thicknesses of wood right??? They DO NOT match up with the scribed measurements on the drill guide.  The markings on the bottom of my portable base say K3 system.

yeah.....I think I'll need a little more help.

[KregRep]

Hi Debora. Sorry for the confusion. I'll try to straighten it out.

The Drill Guide can be used for repairs by itself. The spacer bars make it easier by helping you position the drill guide for different thicknesses.

The portable base is an optional accessory. It comes with the Master System, but not with the basic Kreg Jig. The Portable Base makes repairs a whole lot easier, since it lets you set up your drill guide just as you would in the jig--just align the thickness mark on the side of the Drill Block with the top edge of the Portable base, and then tighten the setscrew. Plus, the Portable Base has a lip that you can hook over the end of the workpiece, and the little retainers that secure a face clamp for easier clamping.

So, the Portable Base makes things a lot easier. BUT, when you're using the portable base, what if you need to change thicknesses and adjust the stop collar on your driver bit? You don't have your jig base with the drill setting guides. That's where the other markings on the Portable Base come in. Once you have the Drill Guide locked in to match your material thickness, you can slide the drill bit in and align the "step" on the bit with one of those marks on the Portable Base. Tighten the stop collar, and your drill bit will be set correctly.

I hope this helps

KregRep

[Ken Darga]

Debora, 

Hope the photos help.

The above photo depicts an example of how I use the jig for making repairs, building stuff,

adding additional pocket holes, or the like---

when I can't get an object into the bench top style drilling jig, to add pocket holes.

Spacer Block slots are located on the underside of the Drill Guide.

Each spacer compensates for an additional 1/4-inch in material thickness.

Use one block for 3/4" material, 2 for 1" material and 3 for 1-1/4" material.

Simply add the blocks to the slots, located on the bottom of the drill guide,

and clamp the guide in place, drill applicable holes, remove the jig and install the screws.

[Debora Cadene]

Hi...I thought the inside numbers made sense when I read your reply, but when I grab the tools and try and match up what I "think" you mean,.......and its still pretty goofy without a picture.  Here's a pretend example.  I'm drilling 11/2" and need switch to 3/4" or vise versa. I set the drill guide to 3/4", ..(here's where I go fuzzy...) I loosen the collar, then drop the drill bit into the hole next to the measurement....am I eyeballing it? You wouldn't happen to have another picture would you????? 

Are you calling the two plastic clips with the tiny screws in them retainer clip? Am I just tightening them up and turning them so they are on the faceplate of my clamp? What if I can't clamp it to anything...the utube that I was able to watch says to screw  it into the wood...I don't have any extra holes to do that.

I really apologize for all the questions. I really did look around for videos of what I am asking and I haven't found anything. I realize they probably sound pretty darn silly to everyone,but I really don't know the answers.

Also...as I look at my clamp, I see one side of the clamp is bigger than the other...is there a top and bottom to this clamp?

[james wilhelm]

Hi DEBORA, saw your post on spacer bars , I took a few pictures that may help you out !!! Pics 002 is from the quick start-guide under repair applications , shows screw location in guide without base . 003 shows screw in guide  - 005  shows drill bit set up in guide and base @ 3/4 "  also here we use a nickle under the bit tip as a guide !!!  006  -  shows the clamp on guide  , small end in guide , large end on wood surface , to keep it from marking wood !!!009 shows drill bit set @ 3/4 "  on the face of the base, hope this helps , JIM !!!

Debora Cadene said:

Hi...I thought the inside numbers made sense when I read your reply, but when I grab the tools and try and match up what I "think" you mean,.......and its still pretty goofy without a picture.  Here's a pretend example.  I'm drilling 11/2" and need switch to 3/4" or vise versa. I set the drill guide to 3/4", ..(here's where I go fuzzy...) I loosen the collar, then drop the drill bit into the hole next to the measurement....am I eyeballing it? You wouldn't happen to have another picture would you????? 

Are you calling the two plastic clips with the tiny screws in them retainer clip? Am I just tightening them up and turning them so they are on the faceplate of my clamp? What if I can't clamp it to anything...the utube that I was able to watch says to screw  it into the wood...I don't have any extra holes to do that.

I really apologize for all the questions. I really did look around for videos of what I am asking and I haven't found anything. I realize they probably sound pretty darn silly to everyone,but I really don't know the answers.

Also...as I look at my clamp, I see one side of the clamp is bigger than the other...is there a top and bottom to this clamp?

[Debora Cadene]

Wow, thank you for the pictures, that was so nice of you!! so now I know what some folks were talking about when they mentioned the nickel or the dime, but what if  you need it at 1 1/2"?  

[james wilhelm]

Debora , your welcome  , to set your drill bit , just move it over to the other side of the drill guide and line it up with the 1 1/2 " mark , hope this helps , JIM !!!

[Debora Cadene]

I don't put nothing under the bit...just sort of eyeball it?

[james wilhelm]

NO just line it up  with the 1 1/2 " mark on the left side of the base !!! If you are going to use the guide with out the base  , then you must add three more spacer blocks to the guide !!  If you are using the guide and portable base together  you do not need the spacer blocks , just line the bit up to  the 1 1/2 " mark and tighten the stop collar . If you are going to be using the guide without the base  a lot , you can buy extra spacer blocks from KREG  !!!

[james wilhelm]

Also when you change to 1 1/2 " , you must loosen the pin on the back and slide the guide up to the 1 1/2 " mark on the right side of the base !!!