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Using Landscape Timbers can I use the Kreg Jig somehow?

I need some advice.

I bought the Kreg Jig for pocket holes the master set and I bought it thinking of using it on landscape timbers for several projects I am planning on.  However, after opening the Kreg set I see where it only allows for up to 1-1/2" thickness materials.  My landscape timbers are 3"x4".  Is there any way for me to be able to go ahead and use the jig?   Any help would be appreciated.

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Hi James!

thanks for replying.  I've got several plans using landscape timbers and many have more than 100 screws.  I was hoping to be able to use the pocket hole jig to help save time and having to drill pilot holes.  The landscape timbers are 3"x4".  when I measured the 3 inch side it turns out that it's actually 2-3/4".  since the jig only is to be used for 1-1/2" thick woods I was concerned.  I am inserting some pics so you can see what I'm wanting to make.  The half round planter requires several pieces to be cut at a 22-1/2 degree cut and directions on the plan tell me to toenail the screws at a 30 degree angle.  I would LOVE to be able to just make the pocket holes and get them attached that way.  I do understand that I will have to screw the layers together at 90 degrees from the bottom so those won't show through the top.

Here are the pics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Does this help you understand better?

Thanks James

If it were me I think I would use the 1 1/2" setting to get the screw away from the edge a little more. The 1/2" setting puts the screw 1/4" from the edge where the 1 1/2" setting puts it 3/4" from the edge.

 

The other possibility would be to make a jig to hold the Kreg jig to place the holes at the location and amgle specified in the plans. You may also need to use screws other than Kreg to get the length specified.

Landscape timber generally have curved surfaces---making it more difficult to clamp the jig in place for drilling a pocket hole.

 

If using the Kreg jig to drill the holes, use longer screws, such as a 3-1/2" wood screw, suitable for exterior use and treated lumber.  

Obtain screw heads to facilitate a ''square'' drive bit or a ''star'' bit.

 

When fastening timbers, I've used a mortising bit or wood boring bits, then followed by clearance holes, in the upper-most piece.

For fasteners I've used 3-1/2" screws, suitable for treated lumber, with the screwheads countersunk.

Countersink the screw heads so that you get 50% of the screws length into the mounting surface.

The counter sunk holes can be plugged, using dowels.

 

Pilot holes are necessary to accept the screw threads, to avoid brake-offs.

 

Add the counter-bored hole, followed by a clearance hole.

Place the uppermost object in place over the piece you are fastening it to---

use a center punch to locate the pilot hole location, remove the uppermost object, and drill the pilot holes to the desired depth.

 

In some projects, I've used ''lag screws''---when I've needed to use a larger/longer fastener.

Counter-bore the upper most object, to recess the screw head.

Use a hex head driver, for the screw heads.

Plug the holes with a dowel.

 

If you want to obtain a ''no fastener look appearance'', insert the fasteners from the underside---screw heads down, on the underside of the object.

Makes a person scratching their heads---wondering ''how'd she do that''?

 

Sorry, I don't have a photos to publish.

 

 

 

Hi Tom!


Thanks for replying.


I don't think I could use the jig that way.  I mean I don't know how it would work.  the landscape timbers are sort of round.  I mean two edges are rounded, so how would i get the jug clamped?

Tom Kuhn said:

If it were me I think I would use the 1 1/2" setting to get the screw away from the edge a little more. The 1/2" setting puts the screw 1/4" from the edge where the 1 1/2" setting puts it 3/4" from the edge.

 

The other possibility would be to make a jig to hold the Kreg jig to place the holes at the location and amgle specified in the plans. You may also need to use screws other than Kreg to get the length specified.

Hi ken!


thanks for replying.


I just posted to Toms reply about the problem with the landscape timbers being rounded.  I think I should have gone down the replies and found yours.  I DO understand what you are talking about the "no show look".  I tried to explain that in my original post.  I just didn't explain it very well.  Thank you so much for such a clear and precise description of what I need to do.  I am going with your advice and will let you know how everything turns out.


Landscape timber generally have curved surfaces---making it more difficult to clamp the jig in place for drilling a pocket hole.

 

If using the Kreg jig to drill the holes, use longer screws, such as a 3-1/2" wood screw, suitable for exterior use and treated lumber.  

Obtain screw heads to facilitate a ''square'' drive bit or a ''star'' bit.

 

When fastening timbers, I've used a mortising bit or wood boring bits, then followed by clearance holes, in the upper-most piece.

For fasteners I've used 3-1/2" screws, suitable for treated lumber, with the screwheads countersunk.

Countersink the screw heads so that you get 50% of the screws length into the mounting surface.

The counter sunk holes can be plugged, using dowels.

 

Pilot holes are necessary to accept the screw threads, to avoid brake-offs.

 

Add the counter-bored hole, followed by a clearance hole.

Place the uppermost object in place over the piece you are fastening it to---

use a center punch to locate the pilot hole location, remove the uppermost object, and drill the pilot holes to the desired depth.

 

In some projects, I've used ''lag screws''---when I've needed to use a larger/longer fastener.

Counter-bore the upper most object, to recess the screw head.

Use a hex head driver, for the screw heads.

Plug the holes with a dowel.

 

If you want to obtain a ''no fastener look appearance'', insert the fasteners from the underside---screw heads down, on the underside of the object.

Makes a person scratching their heads---wondering ''how'd she do that''?

 

Sorry, I don't have a photos to publish.

 

 

 

Considering that they make screws specifically for that, I'd be inclined to go that way.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/TMR-4040/14quot-x-4-12quot-Extra-Lo...

 

Except for the picnic table, the pics you posted, shouldn't be to big an issue to hide the screws. One thing I did find out using the Kreg on my picnic table is that spiders love the pockets to put their little egg baggies in.

Hi John!


thanks for the link and the info about the spiders.  I just made the Kreg tool bench that is made for outside.  I used all 2x4's sanded, and have 3 coats of Marine Varnish applied to it.  I never thought about a problem with spiders.  I've made my own dowels for quite some time so will be using the 2x4 stock to make some dowels to plug up the holes.  I'm not too worried about the spiders in/on the planters but the picnic table will get plugged too.  thanks again for the tips.
John Schaben said:

Considering that they make screws specifically for that, I'd be inclined to go that way.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/TMR-4040/14quot-x-4-12quot-Extra-Lo...

 

Except for the picnic table, the pics you posted, shouldn't be to big an issue to hide the screws. One thing I did find out using the Kreg on my picnic table is that spiders love the pockets to put their little egg baggies in.

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