Kreg Owners' Community

I made a cake board out of plywood and framed it in solid pine.  I used pocket holes to attached the edging to the plywood.  The problem I have is the srew heads are above the surface of the board once screwed in.

 

What have I done wrong?

Views: 3617

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

How thick is your stock? Which screws, pan head or washer head?
sounds like the holes were not drilled deep enough. check the stop collar on the bit and make sure it is set for the correct wood thickness. then use the right length of screws, 1 1/4 inch for 3/4 material. hope this helps.

The stock was 3/4". Washer head.

 

Jeff, it's almost certainly the stop collar, as Steve said.  If it's set too shallow your hole won't be deep enough for the screw head to seat below the surface of the wood.

Ok, actually makes sense.  So then this leads to the next question.  do you set the depth based on the tip of the bit, or where it widens out?

 

Per the instruction manual, you base the depth off of the STEP of the bit.  Not the tip.  Good luck!
I made the same mistake when setting the collar, instead of redrilling I used a 1 1/2 screw instead of the 1 1/4 for 3/4 stock, joint was weak with the smaller screw, once I refered to the DVD for proper setup I knew that the hole wasnt deep enough.   When I corrected the drill step for my second piece now using the 1 1/4 screw for the 3/4 stock, now the tip of the screw is just poking out of the board.  I rechecked the size and made sure the jig was set up properly and the drill was properly set up.  Was wondering if you have to compensate and go on the shy side when setting up the step drill?

I had the same problem.  I had the tip of the screw penetrate when I had the depth set on the bit correctly.  I must have had the depth wrong on the block itself.

 

I am ready to built a couple of cabinets for my garage, I will try again and see how it goes!

I just completed a building some 8' x 12" with a 4" (6 of them)  riser for the perimeter of my store to put inventory on.  I put in a pocket hole every 8".  A lot of drilling a lot of pocket holes.  I fudged the step by just about a strong 1/16 and it came out perfect.  I was also using MDF which I found was much more solid and not so soft as the pine I recently used, when thinking about I may have driven the screws a bit hard into the soft wood.  So I think it is also material driven.

Jeff Varady said:

I had the same problem.  I had the tip of the screw penetrate when I had the depth set on the bit correctly.  I must have had the depth wrong on the block itself.

 

I am ready to built a couple of cabinets for my garage, I will try again and see how it goes!

Ok I am still a bit confused and want to make sure I understand the concept. You set the height of the jig to the thickness of the material that is getting the pocket hole, correct?  You also set the collar on the bit based on the thickness of the material getting the pocket hole?  I am making a case that is comprised of 3/4" plywood on the out side and 1/2" plywood is forming the dividers and an trying to understand how to set everything to join it properly.

 

Thank you in advance.

It sounds like the issue you're facing is with the screw heads protruding above the surface of the kaker board after using pocket holes to attach the edging to the plywood. One possible reason for this could be that the screws were driven in too far, causing them to extend beyond the surface. To fix this, you can try adjusting the depth setting on your pocket hole jig or using shorter screws. Alternatively, you might want to countersink the screw heads slightly by drilling a shallow hole to allow them to sit flush with the surface. Hope this helps!

I'm still a little unclear and want to ensure I grasp the concept fully. To create a pocket hole, you adjust the jig height to match the thickness of the material, right? Additionally, you set the collar on the drill bit according to the material thickness as well? I'm constructing a case made of 3/4" plywood on the exterior, with 1/2" plywood used for the spellspann dividers, and I'm trying to figure out the correct settings to join everything together effectively.

Reply to Discussion

RSS

Need Help?

For Technical Support, please call 800-447-8638 or send a message. Reps are available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm CST. 

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

Forum

Jig settings for 2 ¾ x 1 ½ boards with 30 degree miters?

I making a hex ring out of 2x4s ripped to 2 ¾ inches wide with 30 degree miters.  What setting on the Jig should I used? 1 ½ is too much.  Thanks.Continue

Started by Patrick Halinski in Kreg Jig® Operation Dec 30, 2023.

40mm Cup Hinge Jig Question

Hi All.....I have the 35mm Kreg Jig hinge drill guide. The guide is great for 35mm Hinge Cups, but I have a speciality 40MM hinge cup to drill.Has anyone adapted the Kreg guide to work with 40mm Forsner drill bits? Or have a guide that works…Continue

Started by Ed Anderson in Beginners' Zone Oct 3, 2023.

Product Reviews

The Pocket Hole Joinery Book - Review

Posted by Daris R. on August 27, 2024 at 8:29pm

New Kreg 720Pro

I saw the video Kreg put out for this new jig and had high hopes for it.

I purchased one today and am very disappointed with it.

First the docking station is extremely cheap. The plastic is pathetic. A Lego has more…

Continue

Posted by Duke Leon on February 15, 2021 at 9:00pm

© 2024   Created by KregRep.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Privacy Policy  |  Terms of Service

_