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WHAT TABLE SAW DO YOU OWN ?AND WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT IT ? RATING OUT OF 5!

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Does the sawstop prevent kickbacks??


Did you have a riving knife or splitter installed? I've found those to help eliminate kickbacks more than featherboards although I tend to use just about everything available.


Rob Shively said:

I've looked at them very carefully. They're wonderfully made.  I've had two serious kickbacks on my Unisaw.  I wasn't seriously injured with either.  Both happened even though I'd taken precautions with push sticks and featherboards.  I don't need any more hints.  I also like the improved dust collection.  Anyway, I'm buying while I can take advantage of their dust collection deal.

The presence of a riving knife and/or anti-kickback pawls considerably reduces the chances of kickback.  I'm sure they aren't foolproof if you insist on cutting off a smaller piece of wood with the larger part of the board to the left of the blade. That's just asking for trouble.  What's nice about the SawStop is not only do you have a riving knife and the pawls but you also  have the safety mechanism to stop and drop the blade if your hand is dragged into the it with a kickback as so often seems to occur.

 

I did not have a splitter installed at the time of my two kickbacks and of course I'd removed the terrible guard that comes with the saw.  My Unisaw has a splitter now - two different types -  and they help.  A riving knife for my five-year old Unisaw is unavailable.  Believe me, I've looked.

 

Anyway, I play the piano and I want to keep playing.  I want every protection I can get plus the improved dust collection.  The extra money doesn't seem that unreasonable to me in light of what you get in return.

John Schaben said:

Does the sawstop prevent kickbacks??


Did you have a riving knife or splitter installed? I've found those to help eliminate kickbacks more than featherboards although I tend to use just about everything available.


Rob Shively said:

I've looked at them very carefully. They're wonderfully made.  I've had two serious kickbacks on my Unisaw.  I wasn't seriously injured with either.  Both happened even though I'd taken precautions with push sticks and featherboards.  I don't need any more hints.  I also like the improved dust collection.  Anyway, I'm buying while I can take advantage of their dust collection deal.

The SawStop does not prevent kickbacks, but, it may save digits in the event that you do have one.  I play guitar, and that was my primary reason for purchasing my SawStop.  I have not triggered the cartidge in the 1 1/2 years that I have had and used it.  I am very careful with this tool because, although, I hope that the safety features function when needed, there is always that chance..........

 

BTW: I have had kickbacks, one that bruised my abdomen.  I use the riving knife.

 

TeddyB



Rob Shively said:

The presence of a riving knife and/or anti-kickback pawls considerably reduces the chances of kickback.  I'm sure they aren't foolproof if you insist on cutting off a smaller piece of wood with the larger part of the board to the left of the blade. That's just asking for trouble.  What's nice about the SawStop is not only do you have a riving knife and the pawls but you also  have the safety mechanism to stop and drop the blade if your hand is dragged into the it with a kickback as so often seems to occur.

 

I did not have a splitter installed at the time of my two kickbacks and of course I'd removed the terrible guard that comes with the saw.  My Unisaw has a splitter now - two different types -  and they help.  A riving knife for my five-year old Unisaw is unavailable.  Believe me, I've looked.

 

Anyway, I play the piano and I want to keep playing.  I want every protection I can get plus the improved dust collection.  The extra money doesn't seem that unreasonable to me in light of what you get in return.

John Schaben said:

Does the sawstop prevent kickbacks??


Did you have a riving knife or splitter installed? I've found those to help eliminate kickbacks more than featherboards although I tend to use just about everything available.


Rob Shively said:

I've looked at them very carefully. They're wonderfully made.  I've had two serious kickbacks on my Unisaw.  I wasn't seriously injured with either.  Both happened even though I'd taken precautions with push sticks and featherboards.  I don't need any more hints.  I also like the improved dust collection.  Anyway, I'm buying while I can take advantage of their dust collection deal.
Look at the Leeway Workshop,LLC  that's where I found the riving knife for my Ridgid4511...

Rob Shively said:

The presence of a riving knife and/or anti-kickback pawls considerably reduces the chances of kickback.  I'm sure they aren't foolproof if you insist on cutting off a smaller piece of wood with the larger part of the board to the left of the blade. That's just asking for trouble.  What's nice about the SawStop is not only do you have a riving knife and the pawls but you also  have the safety mechanism to stop and drop the blade if your hand is dragged into the it with a kickback as so often seems to occur.

 

I did not have a splitter installed at the time of my two kickbacks and of course I'd removed the terrible guard that comes with the saw.  My Unisaw has a splitter now - two different types -  and they help.  A riving knife for my five-year old Unisaw is unavailable.  Believe me, I've looked.

 

Anyway, I play the piano and I want to keep playing.  I want every protection I can get plus the improved dust collection.  The extra money doesn't seem that unreasonable to me in light of what you get in return.

John Schaben said:

Does the sawstop prevent kickbacks??


Did you have a riving knife or splitter installed? I've found those to help eliminate kickbacks more than featherboards although I tend to use just about everything available.


Rob Shively said:

I've looked at them very carefully. They're wonderfully made.  I've had two serious kickbacks on my Unisaw.  I wasn't seriously injured with either.  Both happened even though I'd taken precautions with push sticks and featherboards.  I don't need any more hints.  I also like the improved dust collection.  Anyway, I'm buying while I can take advantage of their dust collection deal.
My table saw is a Rockwell 34-450, 1 1/2 HP, with twin link belt drive with an Excalibur fence. I have not been able to track down what year it was built. It is in good condition and a pretty fair saw.
My Dewalt DW744 which i've owned for some Years now and i've never had a problem with it. Great saw!
I've got an older Craftsman 113. model from the '50's quite a few years from a friends Uncle that passed. After tuning her up, adding the very awesome Biesemeyer Fence, and a few Freud blades, she cuts very well, and purrs like a kitten. I am planing on switching over to 220/240. While cutting some 3" thick Maple the other day, she was straining a bit. Any input on that would be appreciated. Thnx


RMK said:
I've got an older Craftsman 113. model from the '50's quite a few years from a friends Uncle that passed. After tuning her up, adding the very awesome Biesemeyer Fence, and a few Freud blades, she cuts very well, and purrs like a kitten. I am planing on switching over to 220/240. While cutting some 3" thick Maple the other day, she was straining a bit. Any input on that would be appreciated. Thnx
I would love to wire for higher voltage, but the breaker box in the house is full, I would have to replace it with a 200 amp box, pull wires, possibly replacing the service. Sounds like a summer project to me.
I have 3 table saws.  A small Delta direct drive that cost about $100, a Craftsman that is almost wore out (it keeps throwing pulleys), and a Delta cabinet saw.  You get what you pay for.  The Craftsman is about a $500 saw that I think is made by Rigid.   My newest one is a $1200 (on sale) Delta saw which is very accurate.  It has a real heavy fence that stays adjusted.  It has closed bottom so the saw dust goes thru a dust collector instead of on the floor or in your face.  It is so heavy it takes three men to pick it up, but it is on a dolly so I can easily move it.  It is my favorite and I give it a 4.9. If it were a 12" saw it would get a 5.  It still use the Craftsman for Dado cuts, and the small Delta for small jobs off site or in another room.
You can add circuits with out have to replace the box, they dual circuit breakers that will fit in a single slot, and it that does not work you can add a sub panel.

William Steinfeldt said:


RMK said:
I've got an older Craftsman 113. model from the '50's quite a few years from a friends Uncle that passed. After tuning her up, adding the very awesome Biesemeyer Fence, and a few Freud blades, she cuts very well, and purrs like a kitten. I am planing on switching over to 220/240. While cutting some 3" thick Maple the other day, she was straining a bit. Any input on that would be appreciated. Thnx
I would love to wire for higher voltage, but the breaker box in the house is full, I would have to replace it with a 200 amp box, pull wires, possibly replacing the service. Sounds like a summer project to me.

Hal, you can't add a 220 line with the the mini breakers... Well, there are ways to do it with two of them but none come close to any code known.

 

Don't know how big the main panel is but if it's 125 or bigger you can add a 125 sub-panel and feed it off a 50 or 60 amp breaker and split it out from there. You would just need to pull the feed to the sub-panel. 50 amp I think would be 6 gauge, if I'm wrong on that I'm sure I'll be corrected.

Hal Schmidt said:

You can add circuits with out have to replace the box, they dual circuit breakers that will fit in a single slot, and it that does not work you can add a sub panel.

William Steinfeldt said:


RMK said:
I've got an older Craftsman 113. model from the '50's quite a few years from a friends Uncle that passed. After tuning her up, adding the very awesome Biesemeyer Fence, and a few Freud blades, she cuts very well, and purrs like a kitten. I am planing on switching over to 220/240. While cutting some 3" thick Maple the other day, she was straining a bit. Any input on that would be appreciated. Thnx
I would love to wire for higher voltage, but the breaker box in the house is full, I would have to replace it with a 200 amp box, pull wires, possibly replacing the service. Sounds like a summer project to me.

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