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I was wondering who preffered what when it came to table saw blades, I need a new blade. The one that I had in my saw became bent while I was cutting panels for some cabinet doors I was exposed to table saw kick back for the first time.{hence my new profile picture}.

I'm looking for a good combo blade I have a frued combo blade now and was wondering if a forrest woodworker was all that much better to justify the price. And do blade stabilizers make that much of a difference.

Thanks RV

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 I prefer Freud or Tenneru.Forrest paying for a name not that better of a blade.

Get the Forest Woodworker II. When I bought my table saw my wife went with me to get it. I asked about a blade & the sales person said we have the Forest Woodworker II. I asked how much & my wife interrupted and said "That is what he wants."   When the person said the price I was shocked and again she said "That is what he wants." In her first marriage they were general contractors so I took her advice. On the way home she said "I've written checks for a many of those blades." That was 8 years ago, and since then I have also bought a thin kerf blade too. That is the only blade I will ever use. They can also be returned to the manufacture and they will replace broken teeth, and put it back into original specks, (for a fee but the cost is not that bad.)  I have done nothing to either of my blades and they still work as well as the day I bought them.

Another good blade is the Dewalt precision trim. I have a 40 tooth on my table saw. I accidentally cut a screw into with it. I still cuts a beautiful cut. I can cut cross grain Burch ply with it and only have fuzz instead of big splinters and tear out.
I have tried the best of Frued blades but can honestly say that to me the Forrest Woodworkers II blade is many times better. They cut so smooth, jointer isn't needed. Get them to sharpen if wanting to cut like new over and over. I liked mine so much, i now have three to always have a fresh blade but the sharpening lasts a long time also. Worth the extra price.
I always use blade stiffeners or stabilizers and a zero clearance insert when cutting plywood. Though most of the time I used a cheap plywood blade and dispose of them when they get dull. I prefer Frued otherwise. I've used Frued blades on almost every project from doors and cabinets, to fine furniture.
As mentioned on some of the replys, I really like the Freud blades- especially the thin Kerf version.  For a while, the electrical in my shop was under-powered, and the thin-kerf blades helped me keep the power on.

I just purchased a D745 10 inch   table saw and wanted to toss out what I am thinking as a novice for comment.  My thoughts were to purchase 5/8 arbor 7.25 inch blades as they will fit my miter and circular saw as well and if I am thinking correctly the depth of cut will be somewhere in the area of 2-2.4 inches adequate for most of what I will be doing.  I was going to purchase diablo blades in 40 and 60 tooth configs.  I would reserve the 24 T blade coming with the saw for ruff cut dimensional lumber.  From what little I really know zero clearance throat plates should be made or purchased for each blade and anticipated depth settings.  Ok for comments please. 

I would purchase 10" blades for the table saw, using 7.25 will limit its usefulness and you can always use lot of blades.  Go to Harbor Freight and get cheap ones they work fine

Hi Rick - I just picked up one of those myself a month or so ago, nice little saw.

Not sure about running 7¼" blades. I know they will work, I use them from time to time for various, special cuts. You're right about reducing the depth of cut about 1½" which will leave about 2½" @90° but likely not much at 45°. What I really don't know is how it will affect quality of cut. You are reducing the tip speed by nearly 30% which has to affect it, to my way of thinking anyway.

20 to 30 tooth is a good rip blade, 40 to 50 tooth for combination blades and 60 to 80 for crosscuts.

I think a 0 clearance insert for each depth of cut may be a bit over the top. That is basically a thin kerf machine so I would have one for 90° cuts and for 45° bevels. Dado blades are not recommended on that machine.

I am aware of the no Dado limitation but planned on using a router guide and router most of the time if a dado was needed.  Will a 24 tooth blade give a rip with a good finished edge?  I was under the understanding that the 40 Tooth rip is much more finished and requires little sanding for joinery.   

I think I just posted the answer to this in another thread,.. or at least a partial answer. There I was talking in generalities, here, I have some specifics since I have that saw and, presumably an identical blade.

That deWalt blade is basically a construction blade and, while it is still giving me a decent cut, it is also still new. Generally a dedicated rip blade will be 20 to 30 teeth with a Flat Top Grind like this one: Heavy Duty rip blade

Freud has done some things with the tooth geometry and grind to improve the cut quality of rips. Note that this one has 30 teeth with a TCG (triple chip grind) instead of a FT grind.  Glue line Rip blade

They also came up with what is called a "Fusion" blade which is one of the few that give excellent rip and cross cuts. Freud Fusion

Note that this is a 40 tooth blade but uses a HiATB (high alternate top bevel) grind.

Good Luck

Note - It probably shows I'm something of a fan of Freud blades:)


Rick said:

I am aware of the no Dado limitation but planned on using a router guide and router most of the time if a dado was needed.  Will a 24 tooth blade give a rip with a good finished edge?  I was under the understanding that the 40 Tooth rip is much more finished and requires little sanding for joinery.   

thanks for all the info.  I am going to play a bit and since I can get a diablo 24.40,60,80 tooth line up of blades.  

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