Kreg Owners' Community

I am considering purchasing a Kreg jig system.  I noticed that there is a Kreg K4MS Jig System and also a Kreg K3MS Jig System available at online sites such as  I am wondering what the differences are between the two systems other than perhaps the K4MS is the latest or newer model.  Thanks!

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K3 is better system as has been disscused  at length. Big difference easier to use handle is in the front. Buy K3 if I had known I would have bought K3.
Thanks for the replys...It looks like you guys prefer the K3 system.  I will try to get my hands on a K3.  I wonder why Kreg changed their production assuming the K4 is the latest and rgreatest?

Looking for a K3 design?

Do a google search on-line.

There were some dealers, that still had some K3 master kits available.

One of the Rockler stores has some a few weeks back.


I am new to this forum, just bought a  Master system kit today, but noticed there were two different models, front toggle and rear toggle for clamping

Wasn't sure which one was better to buy, after reading some of the comments here I think I will keep the front toggle which is the K3

the dealer that I purchased my kit has both the K3 and K4 in stock.

Here is the link to his site

I prefer the K3 to the K4 design.


The K3 is most suitable for clamping/holding larger objects, such as panels or larger boards.

The locking handle/lever is on the front side of the tool.

You don't have to reach around, or go around to the back side of the large piece, to engage the clamp---

a real nuisance.


The K4 is suitable, if your only doing smaller size pieces, such as face frames, or the like.


After reviewing these matters, with a Kreg Rep awhile back, they have no plans to reinstate the K3 system.

The K3 design has been discontinued.


I'd like to obtain a K3 base, so as to have as a spare/backup.

Thanks again for all the replys!  I ended up getting a good deal on a new K3 master kit on eBay.  That seems to be the consensus here.  Now all I need are some good plans to build a king/queen sized platform bed frame........ ;-)

The K3 got my attention when it first came out.  But any workpiece that is too large for me to reach over or around is usually heavy and/or awkward to handle.  For those larger workpieces I use either the Rocket Jig or the Mini Jig.  When using the Mini or Rocket Jig it is only necessary to move the jig and clamp it in position on the workpiece which can remain stationary.  In the case of large, heavy and awkward to handle workpieces it is much easier to simply move the jig instead of the work.  At some point it just makes more sense to take the tool to the work rather than the work to the tool. 

I looked at the K3 when it came out, did not and still do not see it as an upgrade from the K2000 and it most definitely not an upgrade to the K2 Jig.  I'll agree that the K3/K4 is more adjustable to odd thicknesses of material than my old K2000/K2 but that same adjust ability makes them more easily maladjusted as well.  I like my old model jigs just fine.

Looking at pictures of the K3........ how do you, or can you, clamp it to your workbench.

I have the K4, and without the handle in front, can attach  it anywhere with a clamp on my workbench top.

It appears the K3 doesn't have an area to attach a clamp to.  

The K3 jig, can be fastened to a workbench, or an auxiliary piece of 3/4" thick piece of wood, and clamp the wood piece to a workbench, or the like.

The are 2 holes, provided in the base of the K3, to secure the base in place, with screws.

An 8-10" x 16" piece of board, is adequate for some applications, or make the wood piece, cut to a suitable size, to fit your needs.

The K3 can also be clamped, by itself, along one side, near the edge of a workbench/work-stand, or the like.

Check-out Kregs website, there are several photos, of various versions, others have made up.

Fins59 said:

Looking at pictures of the K3........ how do you, or can you, clamp it to your workbench.

I have the K4, and without the handle in front, can attach  it anywhere with a clamp on my workbench top.

It appears the K3 doesn't have an area to attach a clamp to.  

Hi Rick, reading your post about the kreg jig differences.  I have a old K-2 which was aluminum but as far as I can tell from looking at the k-4 that I  also, own it appears to have the same clamp as the one that was on the K-2.  This indicates to me that they did not change the clamp design.  What I did was since I had mounted the K-2 in a permanent position on my bench is added an air cylinder clamp with a foot switch.  In place of using the foot switch on the floor I mounted it up on the bench so that I can activate it with my left knee. 

One of Kregs upgrades to the K-2 was to offer an air clamp to replace the hand operated clamp.  I don't know if they still offer this or not however it appears to be the same air cylinger that they use on their clamp table and other auto clamping boring pocket hole machines.  Actually it would not be that difficult to replace that hand clamp with a universal air clamp as the mounting is not hard to build.  Maybe if enough customers requested it of Kreg Tools that they might offer it as an upgrade.  When clamping up large wide stock it is a great upgrade. 

Thanks for info on "clampability" of K3.  I think if I had the K3 I would mount it to a piece of plywood which then could be clamped to a work top.  Seems like that edge clamping of the K3 would limit its use with certain lengths of material.

I say this because the other day I was making a small bench.  The end legs are made from a 1"x12" which taper from 7" at top to 11" at bottom.  To successfully drill pocket holes horizontally  in the 7" end I had to angle my K4 jig so the 11" end would hang over edge of workbench.  If jig was screwed down to workbench I would have had to unfasten jig to move it. (I gotta learn how to post pics) 

Does the K3 with the clamp handle in the front hold the stock as secure as the K4 with the handle in the back?

Why did they discontinue the K3?

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