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I am considering purchasing a Kreg jig system.  I noticed that there is a Kreg K4MS Jig System and also a Kreg K3MS Jig System available at online sites such as  I am wondering what the differences are between the two systems other than perhaps the K4MS is the latest or newer model.  Thanks!

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The K3 can be fastened to any length of wood, whether a board, plank, or sheet of plywood.

Spacer blocks, ''X'' inches thick by "Y'' inches wide, can be located at the desired positions, so as to support the piece you are making pocket holes into.


A suitable taper jig, can be cut from a piece of lumber, and secured in place.


Peruse the handy little supports, that Kreg offers---

one is provided with the Master Kits.

Additional units can be obtained, separately.

These of handy little critters.


You can also make your own---cut to an appropriate size, and fastened, to the support base, that your K3 jig is mounted on.


When drilling pocket holes in a tapered piece, make spacers or shims, to make up the difference, so as to make the object level or parallel, to the supporting fixture.


Draw a light ''pencil line'' down the center of the piece---

or make a chalk snap line---

measure from the center line, at the wide end, and at the narrow end---position the center line parallel to the supporting surface.

Place the supporting/spacer blocks, at desired locations---

temporarily secure the spacers in place,

using a brad nailer, double-sided tape, or an equivalent suitable fastener.


Works for me.




Both jigs hold the piece adequately.


Probably less costly to make the K4 over the K3, 

and charge the same price, which equates to more profits for the company.


I maintain, ''don't fix what ain't broke''.


Personally, I prefer the K3 over the K4 jig.

Dan said:

Does the K3 with the clamp handle in the front hold the stock as secure as the K4 with the handle in the back?

Why did they discontinue the K3?


Clamping the pocket hole drilling jig, to the end of a workbench, may not be suitable for many applications.


Locate the jig, where it is mostly suitable, for its intended use, for your needs.


Try it, experiment with various methods, if you don't like it, or it doesn't suit your needs, move it, and try something else, which is most suitable for needs.


The ideas or suggestions, that Kreg and others have offered, are just some of the many methods, that can be employed.

If you have other ideas, try them and experiment---use what is best for your needs.




I purchased k3 system last month -- at this time I did not know about k4 system. When I watched Kreg DVD and I got confused because its showing k4 model. (all of video clips) I contacted Kreg customer service and they basically said sorry! I asked for manual or instruction how to set it up properly and haven't heard from them.

Maybe you guys have old manual for k3 model? Pictures? I need to see what it is like when perform the drilling and how it hold/clamp on, etc. Seems I have to install it on a piece of wood and screw it? Please advise.

Seem to be a few K4 systems around for anyone interested:



Doesn't seem like the first production  product always seems to be the best product  and I am talking anything !!!

Larwyn said:

The K3 got my attention when it first came out.  But any workpiece that is too large for me to reach over or around is usually heavy and/or awkward to handle.  For those larger workpieces I use either the Rocket Jig or the Mini Jig.  When using the Mini or Rocket Jig it is only necessary to move the jig and clamp it in position on the workpiece which can remain stationary.  In the case of large, heavy and awkward to handle workpieces it is much easier to simply move the jig instead of the work.  At some point it just makes more sense to take the tool to the work rather than the work to the tool. 

I looked at the K3 when it came out, did not and still do not see it as an upgrade from the K2000 and it most definitely not an upgrade to the K2 Jig.  I'll agree that the K3/K4 is more adjustable to odd thicknesses of material than my old K2000/K2 but that same adjust ability makes them more easily maladjusted as well.  I like my old model jigs just fine.

Sorry guys, wrong link... that's what I get for posting before my first cup of coffee.

There's always room for ''product improvement''--- 

whether after the first production release, or versions thereafter. 

Akin to a person designing and making his/her first woodworking projects,

one comes up with ideas to improve it, simplify it, or make it more economical.


We see improvements or enhancements in hand tools, electric power tools, air powered tools, and most other products.

In some cases, with some products, the changes are not for the better.


I have some old hand and power tools,  that are still very functional---

better than many new products offered on todays market.


I have a 25-30 year old electric variable speed drill,

that features an RPM adjustment from 500 to 2500rpm.

The rpm is controlled by a rheostat, located in the top end of the drill body.

A simple turn of the dial knob, adjusts the rpm.

It is most suitable for most of my wood working drilling tasks.

The 2000 -2500rpm, is most ideal for drilling the pocket holes.

Nothing like this product on todays market.

NO---this product is not for sale, or trade.


2000rpm is needed to make ''smooth'' drilled holes in most wood products.

Slower rpm doesn't make the smooth cuts, I desire.


''Speed and Feed'', is the ''key'' to all cutting operations.

The guy built a jig for the k4 it also fixes the problem with k4 handle. I built one already works great.
Here is a picture of my speed jig.
Boy !! That didn't take long good job  !!!!! Now whats the next big project?

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