Staining Pine Question; need some assistance - Kreg Owners' Community2024-03-28T13:55:28Zhttps://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/staining-pine-question-need-some-assistance?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A619725&feed=yes&xn_auth=nohttp://www.americanwoodworker…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-05-19:2900167:Comment:6200232014-05-19T21:46:07.472Zthomas b farrellhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/thomasbfarrell
<p><a href="http://www.americanwoodworker.tv/videos/5132_e-z-blotch-control/" target="_blank">http://www.americanwoodworker.tv/videos/5132_e-z-blotch-control/</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.americanwoodworker.tv/videos/5132_e-z-blotch-control/" target="_blank">http://www.americanwoodworker.tv/videos/5132_e-z-blotch-control/</a></p> Water based Oil Modified is w…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-05-19:2900167:Comment:6198192014-05-19T12:55:22.872Zjustin waldronhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/justinwaldron
<p>Water based Oil Modified is what you want.<br/> <br/> <cite>Keith Woythaler said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/staining-pine-question-need-some-assistance#2900167Comment619725"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>thanks, Justin....the Minwax poly you are referring to --- that's the "water-based oil modified" poly, or their "polycrylic" product?</p>
<p></p>
<p>anybody else have any opinions?</p>
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<p>Water based Oil Modified is what you want.<br/> <br/> <cite>Keith Woythaler said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/staining-pine-question-need-some-assistance#2900167Comment619725"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>thanks, Justin....the Minwax poly you are referring to --- that's the "water-based oil modified" poly, or their "polycrylic" product?</p>
<p></p>
<p>anybody else have any opinions?</p>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote> your biggest challenge is the…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-05-19:2900167:Comment:6197352014-05-19T12:16:22.788Zthomas b farrellhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/thomasbfarrell
<p>your biggest challenge is the varied grain opening in pine. some open areas will suck it in while others are tighter and won't get too dark. try some of this first. <a href="http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-prestain-wood-conditioner?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=2014_Text_Ads" target="_blank">http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-prestain-wood-conditioner?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=2014_Text_Ads</a></p>
<p>your biggest challenge is the varied grain opening in pine. some open areas will suck it in while others are tighter and won't get too dark. try some of this first. <a href="http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-prestain-wood-conditioner?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=2014_Text_Ads" target="_blank">http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-prestain-wood-conditioner?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=2014_Text_Ads</a></p> Hi Keith. I buy it by the gal…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-05-19:2900167:Comment:6197312014-05-19T04:16:24.721Zrich b.https://kregjig.ning.com/profile/richb
Hi Keith. I buy it by the gallon then spray it on ,several coats and sand very lightly every 2coats. 3 -4 coats generally is what I do and the finish is excellent. Spraying is the best way you will really like to outcome.
Hi Keith. I buy it by the gallon then spray it on ,several coats and sand very lightly every 2coats. 3 -4 coats generally is what I do and the finish is excellent. Spraying is the best way you will really like to outcome. Rich,
is that Varathane poly…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-05-19:2900167:Comment:6197302014-05-19T03:31:23.383ZKeith Woythalerhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/KeithWoythaler
<p>Rich,</p>
<p></p>
<p>is that Varathane poly the brush on spray can version?</p>
<p>Rich,</p>
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<p>is that Varathane poly the brush on spray can version?</p> @ Rita ---> unfortunately…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-05-19:2900167:Comment:6199772014-05-19T03:17:53.646ZKeith Woythalerhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/KeithWoythaler
<p>@ Rita ---> unfortunately while it is still technically still in construction (only one or two more small steps before fully constructed), the top has already been made and attached, so the Oak top, while a nice idea, won't help me here....thanks anyway :-)</p>
<p></p>
<p>@ Rich---> I will have to look into the products you referred to. Maybe I'll give them a shot instead of the Minwax</p>
<p>@ Rita ---> unfortunately while it is still technically still in construction (only one or two more small steps before fully constructed), the top has already been made and attached, so the Oak top, while a nice idea, won't help me here....thanks anyway :-)</p>
<p></p>
<p>@ Rich---> I will have to look into the products you referred to. Maybe I'll give them a shot instead of the Minwax</p> Hi Keith. Justin and Rita are…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-05-19:2900167:Comment:6198922014-05-19T02:50:59.316Zrich b.https://kregjig.ning.com/profile/richb
Hi Keith. Justin and Rita are right,I have been spraying and brushing stain on ,I prefer to use a brush then wipe after a certain amount of soaking time,the soaking time is important just allow all the pieces the same amount of time. I have been using the varathane poly,I really like it a lot more than the minwax and I almost always use sherwin Williams Sherwood BAC wiping stains, I have had great sucsess and it comes out great.hope that helps
Hi Keith. Justin and Rita are right,I have been spraying and brushing stain on ,I prefer to use a brush then wipe after a certain amount of soaking time,the soaking time is important just allow all the pieces the same amount of time. I have been using the varathane poly,I really like it a lot more than the minwax and I almost always use sherwin Williams Sherwood BAC wiping stains, I have had great sucsess and it comes out great.hope that helps It is true that pine can be v…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-05-19:2900167:Comment:6199712014-05-19T02:14:50.754ZRita B.https://kregjig.ning.com/profile/RitaBaske
<p>It is true that pine can be very tricky to accept a stain. If the table is still in the assembly stage, have you considered making the top from Oak? I made a table last year for first time out of pine with a oak top. The body of the table was painted and I stained the top. Should be a picture here if you need a visual. I know that does not help with your pine staining question. I have just had very little success staining pine so I know your concern.</p>
<p>It is true that pine can be very tricky to accept a stain. If the table is still in the assembly stage, have you considered making the top from Oak? I made a table last year for first time out of pine with a oak top. The body of the table was painted and I stained the top. Should be a picture here if you need a visual. I know that does not help with your pine staining question. I have just had very little success staining pine so I know your concern.</p> thanks, Justin....the Minwax…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-05-19:2900167:Comment:6197252014-05-19T01:55:11.418ZKeith Woythalerhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/KeithWoythaler
<p>thanks, Justin....the Minwax poly you are referring to --- that's the "water-based oil modified" poly, or their "polycrylic" product?</p>
<p></p>
<p>anybody else have any opinions?</p>
<p>thanks, Justin....the Minwax poly you are referring to --- that's the "water-based oil modified" poly, or their "polycrylic" product?</p>
<p></p>
<p>anybody else have any opinions?</p> Hey Keith,
In staining blotch…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-05-18:2900167:Comment:6196392014-05-18T10:02:52.675Zjustin waldronhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/justinwaldron
<p>Hey Keith,</p>
<p>In staining blotchy woods (maple/pine etc.), I spray the stain, you actually tone the wood. You don't want the stain to absorb, you want the stain to dry as fast as possible and not absorb into the open grain, that's where your blotch comes from. I buy concentrated stain from transtint dyes and mix it with denatured alcohol then spray it. A 2oz. bottle is around $20, but it yields a gallon of dye. (I mix the stain with a whole gallon of alcohol) If you have an air…</p>
<p>Hey Keith,</p>
<p>In staining blotchy woods (maple/pine etc.), I spray the stain, you actually tone the wood. You don't want the stain to absorb, you want the stain to dry as fast as possible and not absorb into the open grain, that's where your blotch comes from. I buy concentrated stain from transtint dyes and mix it with denatured alcohol then spray it. A 2oz. bottle is around $20, but it yields a gallon of dye. (I mix the stain with a whole gallon of alcohol) If you have an air compressor, woodcraft sells a decent gun for $40 and it works very well. You apply thin coats until you reach the color that you want. I now also swear by oil modified poly by Minwax, it dries like lacquer, water cleanup and is very durable. This is how I stain my cabinets and the topcoat I use. I think there are some things on Youtube about it and you can also check out some pictures on my page. Hope this helps.</p>