Split Wood on Face Frames - Kreg Owners' Community2024-03-28T18:27:18Zhttps://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/split-wood-on-face-frames?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A185430&feed=yes&xn_auth=noI mentioned using a longer dr…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-07-31:2900167:Comment:6372532014-07-31T02:41:58.219Zdon carmenhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/doncarmen
<p>I mentioned using a longer drill bit for predrilling some time ago to help with split prevention. I should also have mentioned keeping the stiles 1/2" longer or more (depending on the material) and trimming to size later.</p>
<p>I use the Kreg system fairly often for various projects with all kinds of wood and splitting has not been a particular issue. </p>
<p>I mentioned using a longer drill bit for predrilling some time ago to help with split prevention. I should also have mentioned keeping the stiles 1/2" longer or more (depending on the material) and trimming to size later.</p>
<p>I use the Kreg system fairly often for various projects with all kinds of wood and splitting has not been a particular issue. </p> Thank you Jay--very smart ide…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-07-28:2900167:Comment:6368862014-07-28T01:18:48.703ZJohnhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/JohnAma
<p>Thank you Jay--very smart idea!</p>
<p>Thank you Jay--very smart idea!</p> I solved my splitting by usin…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-02-26:2900167:Comment:6028062014-02-26T01:36:01.835ZEd Rarickhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/EdRarick
<p><em>I solved my splitting by using #6 fine thread screws. I had tried everything else with no success (during winter months in Wisconsin). Once I switched to #6 screws I have not had a single split.</em></p>
<p><em>I solved my splitting by using #6 fine thread screws. I had tried everything else with no success (during winter months in Wisconsin). Once I switched to #6 screws I have not had a single split.</em></p> I have obtained some very lon…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-02-25:2900167:Comment:6027722014-02-25T18:25:30.966ZColin Farrierhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/ColinFarrier
<p>I have obtained some very long 3 mm drill bits and I use these to pilot the hole in the remote piece of wood. It is important to use a depth stop in order to prevent through drilling. I prefer to pilot the hole in order to prevent stress in the remote piece of wood.</p>
<p>regards</p>
<p>Colin farrier</p>
<p>I have obtained some very long 3 mm drill bits and I use these to pilot the hole in the remote piece of wood. It is important to use a depth stop in order to prevent through drilling. I prefer to pilot the hole in order to prevent stress in the remote piece of wood.</p>
<p>regards</p>
<p>Colin farrier</p> Wow! 10 pages of discussion a…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-09-23:2900167:Comment:5710382013-09-23T13:08:05.078ZScotthttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/Scott723
<p>Wow! 10 pages of discussion and ways to address splitting ;)</p>
<p></p>
<p>Here's my input and strategies:</p>
<ul>
<li>Don't be running the screw in too fast - be patient and let the self-tapping / type 17 screw tip do it's job: clear the way for the threads</li>
<li>Try stopping part way in and back the screw out - this clears the cuttings out of the 'auger' section of the screw, reducing the outward pressure as the screw finishes pre-drilling the rest of the hole</li>
<li>Use…</li>
</ul>
<p>Wow! 10 pages of discussion and ways to address splitting ;)</p>
<p></p>
<p>Here's my input and strategies:</p>
<ul>
<li>Don't be running the screw in too fast - be patient and let the self-tapping / type 17 screw tip do it's job: clear the way for the threads</li>
<li>Try stopping part way in and back the screw out - this clears the cuttings out of the 'auger' section of the screw, reducing the outward pressure as the screw finishes pre-drilling the rest of the hole</li>
<li>Use <strong>double-auger fine thread screws</strong> - after my 3rd split on a maple project (I suspect a particularly brittle batch of wood), I ordered some of these that feature the <em>extra space for the cuttings</em>. These are the only screws I use on face frame corners. Custom Service Hardware.com has them.</li>
</ul>
<p>Scott</p> One could use drill rod the s…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-09-19:2900167:Comment:5706492013-09-19T15:25:47.453ZBrían Scott Du Boishttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/BrianScottDuBois196
<p>One could use drill rod the same diameter as the kreg pocket drill. Bore a hole in the end of the drill rod to accept a small twist drill the diameter of the screw tread shaft (material supporting the threads). The small twist drill should be adjustable for depth. A set screw would be needed to hold the twist drill and set the proper exposed length of the drill. One would place the collar on the drill rod to select the same depth that was drilled by the pocket drill (maybe a few thousands…</p>
<p>One could use drill rod the same diameter as the kreg pocket drill. Bore a hole in the end of the drill rod to accept a small twist drill the diameter of the screw tread shaft (material supporting the threads). The small twist drill should be adjustable for depth. A set screw would be needed to hold the twist drill and set the proper exposed length of the drill. One would place the collar on the drill rod to select the same depth that was drilled by the pocket drill (maybe a few thousands less to keep the end of the drill rod from burning the bottom of the pocket hole). This design would be self centering and would prevent the user from drilling the pilot hole too deep. This would also provide sufficient wood for the threads to grip and also limit binding of the screw shank as it is screwed into the wood.</p>
<p>I need to find an old south bend engine lathe, restore it, and I then I would be ready to make a prototype. Maybe you know someone who could build something similar to what I have outlined above.</p>
<p>I believe this will correct the one major problem I have experienced while using the kreg system. The problem is not with the system. The issue is the different grain structure of the wood (as others have mentioned).</p>
<p></p>
<p><cite>don carmen said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/split-wood-on-face-frames?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A570643&xg_source=msg_com_forum#2900167Comment493964"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>there are a few situation where splitting is likely to occur. when you think it is likely,use an</p>
<p>extra long drill bit and pre drill through the pocket hole and into the stile being careful to</p>
<p>not go too deep.</p>
<p>Don.</p>
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</blockquote> Very nice trick.
tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-09-19:2900167:Comment:5706432013-09-19T14:34:52.035ZRod Lowellhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/RodLowell
<p>Very nice trick.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Very nice trick.</p>
<p></p> It's difficult, for most DYI'…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2012-11-08:2900167:Comment:4941642012-11-08T01:34:39.464ZKen Dargahttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/KenDarga
<p>It's difficult, for most DYI'rs to obtain ''extra long'' drill bits, in the small sizes, </p>
<p>that are needed for the pilot holes, for the small diameter screws.</p>
<p>It's difficult, for most DYI'rs to obtain ''extra long'' drill bits, in the small sizes, </p>
<p>that are needed for the pilot holes, for the small diameter screws.</p> there are a few situation whe…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2012-11-07:2900167:Comment:4939642012-11-07T19:54:52.268Zdon carmenhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/doncarmen
<p>there are a few situation where splitting is likely to occur. when you think it is likely,use an</p>
<p>extra long drill bit and pre drill through the pocket hole and into the stile being careful to</p>
<p>not go too deep.</p>
<p>Don.</p>
<p>there are a few situation where splitting is likely to occur. when you think it is likely,use an</p>
<p>extra long drill bit and pre drill through the pocket hole and into the stile being careful to</p>
<p>not go too deep.</p>
<p>Don.</p> Wayne, Your frames look fine.…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2012-10-23:2900167:Comment:4912102012-10-23T06:46:47.871ZJay Boutwellhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/JayBoutwell
<p>Wayne, Your frames look fine. I have to give you credit for sticking to the task at hand. That tells me that you have the makings of a fine cabinet maker. <br></br><br></br><cite>Wayne Albers said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/split-wood-on-face-frames?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A491189&xg_source=msg_com_forum#2900167Comment491189"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>I am feeling much better this evening as I have two face frames together with no…</p>
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<p>Wayne, Your frames look fine. I have to give you credit for sticking to the task at hand. That tells me that you have the makings of a fine cabinet maker. <br/><br/><cite>Wayne Albers said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/split-wood-on-face-frames?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A491189&xg_source=msg_com_forum#2900167Comment491189"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>I am feeling much better this evening as I have two face frames together with no split stiles. I am cheating on the location of the pocket holes and keeping them to the inside of the face frame. It only moves them in about 1/8 inch but it seems to make the difference. I should also mention again that this I am using the Micro jig so the pocket holes are about the same size as the head on the pan head screws. I hope this photo helps.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1935459903?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="721" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1935459903?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="721"/></a>Before anyone sucks in that huge gasp, one frame is for a tall thin cabinet and the other is a short wide cabinet. We are using a 2 inch rail at the top of the uppers so we have more room for crown moulding. I am still so gun shy that I am running the final turn or less with one of those manual screw drivers. I hope to get a few more done after work tomorrow night and will keep all of you up on progress. I am still trying to decide what to use for lubricating the screws and have tried carnauba wax, commercial screw lube, and liquid soap. The jury is still out. I like the ease of the liquid soap, but it "stinks." The carnauba is easy, but it also is tougher to get a little on and not too much. The commercial stuff is hard. I don't think I will try the toilet wax ring, but I am sure the price is right. I have not tried, but may take a stab at the glue, but would have to figure out how to keep it from getting hard at my slow pace.</p>
<p>Thanks to all for the suggestions and for taking to time to help out. It is an amazing feeling to have gotten past at least to this point the difficulties.</p>
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