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What angle would you set your table saw to rip v groves about 1/4 inch deep? I have already built a case covered with beaded board and want to space the v groves about same distance apart as the beads .  Doors will probably be made up of glued up pine boards. Normally you overlap the doors by 1/2 inch minus 1/8 between the 2 doors is that correct. These are my first doors I have built.  Anyone built this style door and remember the angle used?

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Good Evening Gary;

In the past I have done this style on a bar I did years ago, what I did is I did them with a trim router and a straight edge I made a story stick to ensure even spacing the client was really pleased with the outcome.

 

Hope this might help

Jeff

Jeff thanks for your help. I did experiment and was able to make the cuts with the table saw and they came out good but from your suggestion.  I checked out router bits and found this bit Freud 20-301 Radius V-Groove Router Bit for Freud's 99-472 Beadboard Router Bit System, 1/4-Inch Shank and this what I will use. This matches the rest of the cabinet better. I just have to wait for the bit to come Friday.

Gary;

I'm glad I was able to help let us see the project when it is done.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff for the advice. Can always count on the forum for help.

Hi Gary, not knowing what you are doing as you speak of a solid wood door and you are wanting to place "V" grooves into the door. Since you are using a beadboard type of case here is an example of a door of which I have built several times for customers.  it is a simple door with bread board styled mortise and tongue end construction.  The panel is a glue up using multiple pieces of which I alter the growth rings to help with cupping.  Once the panel is finished I use a table saw cutting  a 1/8 inch wide by 1/8 inch deep groove down the panel.  When cutting the panel it is good to cut it so that the two sides are the same and alter the middle so that the cuts leave the middle at a different width.  This makes it look like a "plank" door.

Once I cut the panel then I cut a full tenon on the both the top and bottom of the door and a dado style in the edge (length wise) in two seperate pieces for the top and bottome rail of the door blank.  Cut these to be the width of the finished door.  Assemble the panel and the two rails and only glue the ends so that there will be some ability for the wood to move across the grains.  (same principle that you would use on  bread board construction)  once this is done using the table saw cut another 1/8 x1/8 groove across the door  (width of the door) cutting these so that they leavethe door with the two rails the same width as the faked stiles cut in the panel edges.

I have done these with a trim router and a veining bit that leaves a "V" groove in the panel however in my opinion as well as all the customers of which I have built this type door for do not like them as well as the table sawn plank door.  This door was is very popular with rustic and western styled cabinet building and although looks like a difficult door to build it is actually simple and is a rugged door.  The only math involved is adding to the panel the amount of the door the same amount that you cut the groove in the rails.  Be sure to add the amount for both ends.  In getting the width measure the door opening width and add one inch since the standard overlay is 1/2 inch and do the same for the heighth.    Once tbis done then sut the edge profile and your are ready to finish and hang on hinges.

Jay,

Great description and photos.

A great design and well done.

Thanks for sharing.

Thank you Ken,  It is a solid door and fast and easy to make.  A good way to change the normal old bland style flat panel into a door with some character,   It makes an excellent door for most applications from garage to utility, kitchen and bath room.  I have make several of them and they were very polular with the country western fans.
 I have photos of a kitchen that I did about 6 or 7 years ago with this type of door .  I will find them and post them as soon as I close down the shop. That way you can get a view of how they look when you put multi- photos together.  They are a stable door with some that are pantry size of near 5 feet.  The ones in this kitchen are hinged on European hinges but easy to hang on visable hinges.  
Ken Darga said:

Jay,

Great description and photos.

A great design and well done.

Thanks for sharing.

Hi Ken I was able to find two photos in my files.  I have some more in some photos albums that are stored away.  They are 35mm so I had to scan them to digital.  The customers for whom I built the cabinets for had a collection of the old mason fruit jars that she wanted to display so I added a gallery rail on top of the cabinets.

I can pull more photos and scan them and send them if you wish to see more. 

 


 
Jay Boutwell said:

Thank you Ken,  It is a solid door and fast and easy to make.  A good way to change the normal old bland style flat panel into a door with some character,   It makes an excellent door for most applications from garage to utility, kitchen and bath room.  I have make several of them and they were very polular with the country western fans.
 I have photos of a kitchen that I did about 6 or 7 years ago with this type of door .  I will find them and post them as soon as I close down the shop. That way you can get a view of how they look when you put multi- photos together.  They are a stable door with some that are pantry size of near 5 feet.  The ones in this kitchen are hinged on European hinges but easy to hang on visable hinges.  
Ken Darga said:

Jay,

Great description and photos.

A great design and well done.

Thanks for sharing.

Ken here is one more showing the height of these doors.  Despite the height and weight of these they remain stable.
 
Jay Boutwell said:

Thank you Ken,  It is a solid door and fast and easy to make.  A good way to change the normal old bland style flat panel into a door with some character,   It makes an excellent door for most applications from garage to utility, kitchen and bath room.  I have make several of them and they were very polular with the country western fans.
 I have photos of a kitchen that I did about 6 or 7 years ago with this type of door .  I will find them and post them as soon as I close down the shop. That way you can get a view of how they look when you put multi- photos together.  They are a stable door with some that are pantry size of near 5 feet.  The ones in this kitchen are hinged on European hinges but easy to hang on visable hinges.  
Ken Darga said:

Jay,

Great description and photos.

A great design and well done.

Thanks for sharing.

Jay,

That is beautiful.

The doors give a nice touch.

Classy looking design.

Thank you Ken for your nice comment.  The other method of cutting these door panels is with a router bit that cuts a 1/4 inch wide  "V" in the panels to simulate a plank however were not as desirable as the simple kerf cut using a table saw. 
 
Ken Darga said:

Jay,

That is beautiful.

The doors give a nice touch.

Classy looking design.

Jay,

I've made "V" and "U" grooved slots, milled with a router.

"V" grooves bits---45, 60 and 135 degrees, 

The "Ball End" router bits make for nice "U" grooves.

I'll entertain your approach with the "SQ" groove.

Thanks for the inspiration.

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