Kreg Owners' Community

I know this might sound dumb or that you all may have beaten this dead horse already. But I just want to make sure I understand this correctly. When setting the depth of the Jig and setting the collar on the drill bit, what is the rule? Is it the size of the piece stock that you are drilling or is it for the stock you are joining?

Views: 3964

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

I always set it based off of the size of stock I am drilling. Never had any issues with that. But now you have me wondering. Guess I need to break out the manual again.

Kevin
http://groverwoodworks.blogspot.com
You set the collar and Jig for the depth of the wood you are drilling. You want the screw to come out of the middle of the board you are drilling and if you set it otherwise this will change this. Say for instance you are attaching a 1x into a 2x and you set the Jig and drill for 2x you would come out of the bottom of the 1x.
I thought I had it right but I am tired and began to question myself. Thanks for confirming my thoughts. :) I really should go to bed now.

Kevin
http://groverwoodworks.blogspot.com


Robert J Guidry Sr said:
You set the collar and Jig for the depth of the wood you are drilling. You want the screw to come out of the middle of the board you are drilling and if you set it otherwise this will change this. Say for instance you are attaching a 1x into a 2x and you set the Jig and drill for 2x you would come out of the bottom of the 1x.
Not always. What if you are drilling that 2x to connect to a 1x?

In that case I set up for the 1x and to compensate for not exiting the center of the 2x, I simply drill both sides of the 2x. If it does not show (or matter if it does show) this has worked for me in the past.

Robert J Guidry Sr said:
You set the collar and Jig for the depth of the wood you are drilling. You want the screw to come out of the middle of the board you are drilling and if you set it otherwise this will change this. Say for instance you are attaching a 1x into a 2x and you set the Jig and drill for 2x you would come out of the bottom of the 1x.
Thank you guys. I only asked because there is no real explaination in the manual, and on the "how to make a workbench video" he is drilling into the 2x4 and he resets the jig and drill bit to 3/4 for attaching the 3/4 MDF top and shelf.
My understanding is that you should always set the jig and the drill depth stop according to the thickness of the stock you are drilling the pocket hole into. This will ensure that the exit point of the screw from the pocket hole at the joint site will be in the centre of the material thickness (maximum strength). However, the thickness of the material you are fixing to (ie, the 'receiving' stock) is what determines the screw size. This will ensure the screw achieves the maximum bite in the receiving stock without piercing through the opposite side. The boxes of Kreg screws I buy have the 'screw size:timber thickness' table printed on them. You can easily test the screw length by driving one into the pocket hole and checking its exit length against the thickness of the material you are fixing to. This won't compromise the pocket hole at all because the screw thread only needs 'bite' in the receiving stock. Just make sure the screws feed into the pilot hole - they are capable of tapping their own path through the timber, and that won't do at all!

Douglas
I am glad I am not the only one confused about how the settings are changed in the video. Can anyone offer an explanation? Is it almost arbitrary?

James, just as Doug says, remember this- you want the screw to exit in the middle of the piece being drilled into and you want sufficient length of the screw in the mating/ joining piece to form a strong joint. eg you want to join a 1x2 to 2x2 flush on one side (rail and leg joint). You then set your drill bit and jig to 3/4" and use the appropriate screws (1.5").

If you want the joint to be offset, say by 1/2" (thus placing the rail in the centre of the 2x2) you still set your jig and bit to 3/4" but you can use a longer screw for a stronger joint. Hope this helps :)

Reply to Discussion

RSS

Need Help?

For Technical Support, please call 800-447-8638 or send a message. Reps are available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm CST. 

Popular Posts & Projects 

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

Forum

Thickness error

I ripped a 2x4 board to be a true 3” instead 3.5”. The thickness of the board remains 1.5”. When I put the pocket hole in the board, the top of the hole was too high and now visible. In other words the top of the pocket was on the top of the board…Continue

Started by Ryan Ritter in Beginners' Zone Feb 26.

4" Dust Port for Kreg router table fence?

Finally installed a 4" dust collection system in my shop. I'd like to find a 4" collection port for my Kreg router table (PRS1045) fence. Anybody know where I can find such an animal or one that can be modified to fit?Thanks!Continue

Tags: port, collection, dust, fence, Router

Started by E M Hampton in Other Kreg® Products Dec 2, 2022.

Product Reviews

New Kreg 720Pro

I saw the video Kreg put out for this new jig and had high hopes for it.

I purchased one today and am very disappointed with it.

First the docking station is extremely cheap. The plastic is pathetic. A Lego has more…

Continue

Posted by Duke Leon on February 15, 2021 at 9:00pm

Not Pleased With Pocket Hole Construction

Several months ago, I purchased the Kreg K4MS so that I could build the Lego Table as outlined on the companion "buildsomething" web site which exclusively uses pocket hole construction.  I have considerable experience with conventional…

Continue

Posted by Robert Ringel on September 17, 2020 at 1:48pm — 9 Comments

© 2023   Created by KregRep.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Privacy Policy  |  Terms of Service

_