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I have the Jr. model.

Setting the depth collar for 3/4 inch thick material easy and  clearly marked,  as is 1/2, 5/8, 7/8 and 1inch.

 I decided to use pocket holes to join 2x4's for a frame (1-1/2 thick stock). I was suprised by how UNCLEAR it was to me to read the correct collar depth.  anyone else experience this or am i just not seeing it. 

I got the job done by sliding the collar all the way to the bottom and doing some test joints.  No screws ends popped out and the joint was strong.  Still where is the correct depth reading?

There is a single depth line between the 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 marks is that the one? If that is the one then why is the 1-3/8 line further?

help.

Jay

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Jay, some of us don't use those setup gages for the stop collar, in fact on my setup I can't use it anymore.  A simpler way, which works for all thicknesses, is to place a shim, about 3/32" thick under the drill as shown in the pic.  Another benefit of this method is not making mistakes and drilling thru the clamp base, which I have already done once.

How did you come up with the 3/32" size of shim? Trial and error?

Pretty much.  I think 1/16" would work too.  What you don't want is to have wood protrude from the board and hinder assembly while screwing the boards together. 

Rick-

Holy #%$!#@!:   you have a sweet flush mounted set-up for drilling.  

But this is not my situation.  I have the Jr. so I have to go by the calibrations on the case.

jay

Jay, I have the Mini, the Micro, and the K3, but not the Junior.

For the depth guide, I used "white out" on the side to highlight those number indents.  Just smear it on and wipe it off, and the white stuff stays in the numbers, if that helps you.

I also found the collar depth setup confusing on the K3, and that's why I used the shim method.

jay a martineau said:

I was surprised by how UNCLEAR it was to me to read the correct collar depth.  anyone else experience this or am i just not seeing it.

Put a nickle under the bit set it on that and your good to go

Yeah but Jens ... who keeps nickels in a wood shop?

Jens Jensen said:

Put a nickle under the bit set it on that and your good to go

I keep a nickle in the kreg box.Where the jig should be

You can also take and make a paste from flour and water and rup it on marks ,let dry and wipe off

Rick said:

Jay, I have the Mini, the Micro, and the K3, but not the Junior.

For the depth guide, I used "white out" on the side to highlight those number indents.  Just smear it on and wipe it off, and the white stuff stays in the numbers, if that helps you.

I also found the collar depth setup confusing on the K3, and that's why I used the shim method.

jay a martineau said:

I was surprised by how UNCLEAR it was to me to read the correct collar depth.  anyone else experience this or am i just not seeing it.

another thought: I've never had a problem setting the drill stop collar, but his is a fine idea and a good check. One could use different thinkness shims and mark on them the various stock thinkness/width as well, that will tell you exacly where the screw tip come in, how fan it would bo in could be guestimated. Good idea, think I'll go try this.


I'm using the Kreg jig to fasten 2x6 deck boards over 2x10 deck joists, from the bottom.  It's a long process, however it leaves a 2x6 on top that has no nails or screws showing and all drilling is from the bottom so won't hold water to freeze etc.    I like a little more holding so don't set the drill point so close to the bottom and I leave just enough so the 2 1/2" Kreg screws protrude 1 1/4" up into the deck boards.  That leaves 1/4" for sanding deck boards someday.   I believe in using real wood rather than the Trex type boards as so many of them have sagged in heat and discintigrated like press board in water conditions.   The Fir 2x6's should last 200 years if painted properly along the way.   I'm going to make a "fuss" if they don't last 200 years.  (-:


Rick said:

Jay, some of us don't use those setup gages for the stop collar, in fact on my setup I can't use it anymore.  A simpler way, which works for all thicknesses, is to place a shim, about 3/32" thick under the drill as shown in the pic.  Another benefit of this method is not making mistakes and drilling thru the clamp base, which I have already done once.

My problem on the Jr. is choosing the correct collar setting marking that corresponds to the 2 inch (really 1-1/2) thickness of a 2x4.   there is a mark between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 is that it????

jay

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