Screws showing through! - Kreg Owners' Community2024-03-29T08:27:21Zhttps://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/screws-showing-through?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A583199&feed=yes&xn_auth=noAfter looking at your picture…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-11-27:2900167:Comment:5831992013-11-27T02:34:42.846Zray vilehttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/RayVile
<p>After looking at your pictures I think that maybe you might have been over driving your screws, It looked like you are driving the screws into poplar, that is a realitive soft wood also I would use 1 1/4'' screws for this application.</p>
<p>After looking at your pictures I think that maybe you might have been over driving your screws, It looked like you are driving the screws into poplar, that is a realitive soft wood also I would use 1 1/4'' screws for this application.</p> Hi John;
The first thing that…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-11-26:2900167:Comment:5831922013-11-26T22:21:53.034ZDerek Gouldhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/DerekGoiuld
<p>Hi John;</p>
<p>The first thing that comes to mind is checking the *true* thickness of the wood panels you're using. Shop and veneer plywoods that sell as 34" or 5/8" are rarely EXACTLY that measurement, and usually a little bit less. What I'd suggest is get the exact measurement of the wood you're screwing together, and use that as your setting. Since I got my Kreg jig I've built several cabinets using MDF, and an entire kitchen using veneer plywood, and often screwed from the inside out…</p>
<p>Hi John;</p>
<p>The first thing that comes to mind is checking the *true* thickness of the wood panels you're using. Shop and veneer plywoods that sell as 34" or 5/8" are rarely EXACTLY that measurement, and usually a little bit less. What I'd suggest is get the exact measurement of the wood you're screwing together, and use that as your setting. Since I got my Kreg jig I've built several cabinets using MDF, and an entire kitchen using veneer plywood, and often screwed from the inside out without problems.</p>
<p>I built one small cabinet using 1/2" baltic birch, and ran into problems, and it was the same issue; the baltic birch was actually about 7/16", and the minimum settings on the Kreg are for 1/2". Realistically that's about the thinnest material you SHOULD try and pocket-join.<br/> <br/> <cite>John Stoltzfus said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/screws-showing-through#2900167Comment581815"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>I run into this problem too. When assembling a shop cabinet the side panels had the pocket holes drilled on each end. I attempted at first to orient the holes so they would not show and were on</p>
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</blockquote> Hi John, if I am reading your…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-11-22:2900167:Comment:5821122013-11-22T02:51:39.891ZJay Boutwellhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/JayBoutwell
<p>Hi John, if I am reading your post correct your pocket holes are located on the side panels of the cabinets. The better way is to drill the pocket holes in the top and bottom pieces. This way you hide the visibility by placing the pocket holes on the outside of the cabinets. For the top part of the cabinet turn the piece so that the pocket holes are on the top side and for the bottom piece of the cabinet the pocket holes should be on the outside and down. This hides the screw pocket…</p>
<p>Hi John, if I am reading your post correct your pocket holes are located on the side panels of the cabinets. The better way is to drill the pocket holes in the top and bottom pieces. This way you hide the visibility by placing the pocket holes on the outside of the cabinets. For the top part of the cabinet turn the piece so that the pocket holes are on the top side and for the bottom piece of the cabinet the pocket holes should be on the outside and down. This hides the screw pocket holes for the most part because they are out of view because of the placement of the screws. On a upper cabinet you will have to bend down and look upward to see the screws. If this a face framed cabinet and it you do not wish to see them from this angle cut a piece of 1/4 "or thinner plywood to fit under the bottom of the cabinet and glue or brad nail the plywood to cover the screws. Because the screws are higher that your view they will also be out of sight unless you are looking down from the top.</p>
<p>On occasions where I have to put the pocket in differently I will lighten up on the pocket hole depth by changing the setting on the stop block. Something I also do that many will argue about is that I use the fine thread screw even in plywood. It will allow you to have better control of the screw. Since the thread pitch is more aggressive so is the speed in which it will screw into your plywood. If your pocket hole is drilled correctly and the screw is the correct length and they are not being over torqued, then you should have no problem with tread exposure out the ends or sides. I do not use or depend on a clutch setting of a drill or drill driver for tightening a screw but I use the feel of and sound of the screw as it enters the wood and seats into its final depth. Too many keep driving waiting for the clutch to release when the screw has long seated into the bottom of the pocket. The continued driving then forces the screw in deeper and then you have a screw point sticking out. Many times screws will drive faster and give less resistance to the turning and this is the down fall of depending on a clutch. The results are stripped threads and over driven screws.</p>
<p>This is my method of pocket hole joinery and it is gained from over 25 years of building custom cabinets and woodwork using the Kreg Jig. I started when Kreg was first introduced and it has been my method of choice.</p>
<p>Realistically the only reasons for a screw to extend out of the work is #1. The pocket hole is cut too deep. #2 the screw is too long for the wood being used. #3. The screw is over driven.</p>
<p>I hope this may be of some help to you.</p> I run into this problem too.…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-11-21:2900167:Comment:5818152013-11-21T05:00:33.564ZJohn Stoltzfushttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/JohnStoltzfus
<p>I run into this problem too. When assembling a shop cabinet the side panels had the pocket holes drilled on each end. I attempted at first to orient the holes so they would not show and were on the inside of the cabinet. I met with poor results. The screws poked through the bottom of the cabinet. There simply is not that much wood for the screws to grab when the holes are on the inside of the cabinet and therefore the angle of the pockethole directs the screw towards the outside edge of…</p>
<p>I run into this problem too. When assembling a shop cabinet the side panels had the pocket holes drilled on each end. I attempted at first to orient the holes so they would not show and were on the inside of the cabinet. I met with poor results. The screws poked through the bottom of the cabinet. There simply is not that much wood for the screws to grab when the holes are on the inside of the cabinet and therefore the angle of the pockethole directs the screw towards the outside edge of the bottom of the cabinet.</p>
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<p>I used coarse thread inch and a quarter screws, had the cordless drill clutch turned down quite a bit, and am certain that the collar on the Kreg Jig Drill Bit was set properly for three quarter inch plywood material. I love the idea of the tool, but I do not like this result. It is quite frustrating to have these screw tips poke through the bottom and top plates of a cabinet. The alternative is to have the pocket holes on the outside so the angle of the screw directs the screw to grab more wood as it moves inward toward the inside of the cabinet. But I do not want to see all of those pocketholes, nor do I wish to fill the holes with plugs or wood filler.</p>
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<p>What is causing this?</p> The more we do it....The pret…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-04-01:2900167:Comment:5335872013-04-01T04:44:18.886ZCraig Reuterhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/CraigReuter
<p>The more we do it....The prettier it gets! I must be through 6-7 big boxes of screws by now on several different projects. Each time gets a bit easier & a bit better quality joint. When you can see the 'tightening of the joint' at the same time your clutch starts to chatter....Then you know the true value of this product. Good Luck-Have Fun-Be Safe</p>
<p>The more we do it....The prettier it gets! I must be through 6-7 big boxes of screws by now on several different projects. Each time gets a bit easier & a bit better quality joint. When you can see the 'tightening of the joint' at the same time your clutch starts to chatter....Then you know the true value of this product. Good Luck-Have Fun-Be Safe</p> Tim:
If the clutch setting is…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-03-06:2900167:Comment:5264452013-03-06T04:57:25.697ZChuck Fordhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/ChuckFord
<p>Tim:</p>
<p>If the clutch setting is to high it will create to much torque and the screws can be over driven. Also you need to be sure and let off the trigger when you hear the clatter of the driver on the screw head....holding it down to long will create too much depth. Hope this helps. keep working at it and you'll be fine.</p>
<p>Tim:</p>
<p>If the clutch setting is to high it will create to much torque and the screws can be over driven. Also you need to be sure and let off the trigger when you hear the clatter of the driver on the screw head....holding it down to long will create too much depth. Hope this helps. keep working at it and you'll be fine.</p> Yup....test pieces the same d…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-03-02:2900167:Comment:5257892013-03-02T19:18:26.645ZRobert Palmerhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/RobertPalmer
<p>Yup....test pieces the same dimension as your finished piece. Get it right, THEN get it done.</p>
<p>Yup....test pieces the same dimension as your finished piece. Get it right, THEN get it done.</p> Tim,
It sounds logical; howe…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-02-20:2900167:Comment:5233782013-02-20T22:56:35.189ZKen Dargahttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/KenDarga
<p>Tim, </p>
<p>It sounds logical; however,</p>
<p>after making a test sample piece, and the results are satisfactory,</p>
<p>apply a strip of masking tape around the drill bit at the top side of the drill stop.</p>
<p>(Leave a 1'' tag-end on the tape). You'll quickly see at a glance if the drill stop has moved.</p>
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<p>NOTE: apply firm pressure on the drill guide set screw. The set-screw point must make firm contact with the flute. If the screw is in the groove, the stop will…</p>
<p>Tim, </p>
<p>It sounds logical; however,</p>
<p>after making a test sample piece, and the results are satisfactory,</p>
<p>apply a strip of masking tape around the drill bit at the top side of the drill stop.</p>
<p>(Leave a 1'' tag-end on the tape). You'll quickly see at a glance if the drill stop has moved.</p>
<p></p>
<p>NOTE: apply firm pressure on the drill guide set screw. The set-screw point must make firm contact with the flute. If the screw is in the groove, the stop will slip.</p>
<p></p>
<p><cite>Tim said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/screws-showing-through?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A523371&xg_source=msg_com_forum#2900167Comment523142"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Does it make sense to put the drill collar a hair more shallow then what the jig recommends just as a buffer? Seems to me a good idea. </p>
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</blockquote> Does it make sense to put the…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-02-20:2900167:Comment:5231422013-02-20T22:22:37.152ZTimhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/Tim338
<p>Does it make sense to put the drill collar a hair more shallow then what the jig recommends just as a buffer? Seems to me a good idea. </p>
<p>Does it make sense to put the drill collar a hair more shallow then what the jig recommends just as a buffer? Seems to me a good idea. </p> I've done this too! screwed t…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-02-20:2900167:Comment:5233712013-02-20T21:25:36.260ZMichael DeSavoyhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/MichaelDeSavoy
<p>I've done this too! screwed through a hardwood face frame into 1/2 ply. Screw length is important, but consider the thread gradient as well. Re-tapping my pocket holes and using a coarse screw for the ply resolved my issue.</p>
<p>I've done this too! screwed through a hardwood face frame into 1/2 ply. Screw length is important, but consider the thread gradient as well. Re-tapping my pocket holes and using a coarse screw for the ply resolved my issue.</p>