Technical Support will be happy to provide recommendations: 800-447-8638 or firstname.lastname@example.org
Porter-Cable 890 series
Both available in varialble speed.
Fixed and plunge base.
Fixed base installed in the router table.
Plunge base for handle held routing operations.
I got the Triton just for my Kreg router table because of the built in lift that can be raised or lowered from above with supplied crank. Its in your price rage and I've been impressed with the quality and well thought out features it comes with. Most of the videos by Kreg have a Triton router installed. Mine is the MFO001 and I love it.
One reason I mentioned Porter-Cable, is that I've been using P-C routers and nailers, for over 15 years---
to-date, I've had no issues, or failures. They perform to my satisfaction and perform reliably.
Some have gotten lots of continuous use.
BTW---proper maintenance and upkeep is necessary with any tool.
What issues have you experienced with the P-C products?
Yes, Bosch makes great products---I have several of their tools.
Luke Troughton said:
>>>... I have not had much luck with porter and cable though./div>
Thanks for your reply.
I don't have any P-C battery powered tools---
they're relatively new on the market.
Perhaps they'll suffice for the average homeowner and the ocassional user.
When it comes to industrial and HD use tools, I stick with whats worked for me over the years, as well as associates in the industry who use them, on a daily basis.
One may pay a little more for the tools, but they'll hold up over the long run.
Less expensive tools, such as Ryobi, are economical, and are great for the average homeowner, and for intermittent use.
I've got several of the 18V Ryobi tools, and don't have any issues with them.
Some have outlasted the more expensive tools, that I've purchased.
For continuous and HD duty use, I go with the HD tools, and from a trusted name brand.
NOTE: look into the warranty that is offered by the OEM.
Where purchasing a new tool, I do lots of research on the matter.
Compare various makes and models.
Read the reviews.
(NOTE: I've found some reviews to be "bogus").
Compare features that are offered for the tool.
Compare available accessories, for the specific tool,
and what you plan to do with the tool.
Keep in mind, for future use, that you may persue.
Keep your options open.
Re: P-C routers
P-C offers the largest selection of accessories---
another reason for me selecting a P-C over other brands.
Peruse what Rockler Woodworking and Hardware---they offer large selection of accessories.
When selecting a hand-held model for routing operations,
it needs to feel good in your hand, and be comfortable.
Check out the grip handles---you want it to be firm and subject to slippage and torque of the router.
You need to keep both hands on a hand-held router.
A router can be a very dangerous tool.
A spinning bit can catch onto clothing, and cause some serious bodily harm.
I've heard of some pretty horror stories from others.
For a compact hand-held router for smaller routing operations,
the Bosch VS palm router is the way to go.
It's available in fixed and plunge base.
Great for FREE-hand routing also.
NOTE: it only accommodates 1/4" shank bits, which is suitable for all smaller routing tasks, trim work, and the like.
I have 2 of them, and they get lots of use--- as well as a variety of associated accessories.
They get a good workout.
Rockler offers a nice little portable router table for this router.
For a variety of router bits, look into the started kits---a variety for simple routing tasks.
Buying a kit, will get you started, then add to our selection, as needs arise.
Get good quality carbide bits.
Rockler offers a huge selection.
PS---peruse some books on routers, and read the authors comments---
There are some good router handbooks on todays market.
Happy tool shopping.
The Porter Cable 890 series and Bosch 1617 have been mentioned. I liked the DeWalt DW618 better than the PC & Bosch. The specs are similar, as is the price (the PC is the most expensive of the 3, but it is the standard to which others are compared). The two things that made the DW my choice were the grips on the bases and the depth adjustment on the plunge base.
The base plate mounting pattern is the same on all three. You won't go wrong with any of the three.
I have heard good things about Triton's routers, but I've also heard of issues both actual problems and lengthy down times waiting for servicing, along with finding a decent template for drilling or a predrilled mounting plate.
The Triton has several desired features that others do not. Plenty of power at 3 and 1/4 horse is enough to turn large bits with out bogging down. It has the soft start speed control on the router that easy to adjust. The adjustable through the table is a desirable feature and you can also adjust it from under the table depending on your likes and dislikes. The best feature that I have found to be desirable is the fact that the Triton pulls air in from the top and push it out from the bottom. Since it is a upside down when mounted in a table the Triton blows the dust out and away from the router motor rather that sucking it in. On my prior router table I had a hatachi mv 12 of which had plenty of power at also 3 and 1/4 horse and also the variable soft start speed using the included built in dial. The problem it was frequent filling up with chips and wood dust and require freguent cleaning out. The final death of the router motor was the speed control that was electronic and an expensive part that took about two weeks to obtain. The cause was the motor bound up with chips and when I turned it on one day it tried to start and made a big hum and immediately the electronic control smoked and died. That was the second time and caused by the same thing. Neither time did you have time to react to shut down even with your hand on the switch. I also found that the collet was often loose and galled the bit shanks with ease even though you took care and tighten the collet tight. The triton had a great collet that stays tight even with 3 inch dia bits in hickory and other hard and grain twisted lumber. I have has it now going on 8 years and never had a single problem with it and I use it every day in production of doors and other heavy routing tasks. I would recommend the Triton's and for the router table I would take the 3 and 1/4 hp model.
Since my router will spend it's life under the table in a cabinet running smaller bits I didn't need the power and size. The smaller one has a better balance and feel in my smaller hands. I have tools from most all manufactures so some that work for me get used more. I spend a lot of time on research before buying on utube watching tools in use and watching how the operators hands move the tool to see how it would work for me. Tools can also get over engineered. you can get a pocket hole jig at the china knockoff outlet that makes really sloppy holes, or a high priced overfeatured unit that takes more to adjust when you move your workpiece when you use the Kreg jig simpler unit twice as fast with better results. There's my 2 cents, your results may vary.
Luke Troughton said:
Can I ask why you choose the MOF001 over the TRA001. Only a $20 price difference. Researching routers and router table is overwhelming. Nevermind when you get into accessories. It seems like it is never ending. I also see that amazon sells the whole combination router/table package.
Thanks again for the advice. I can use all the help I can get.
Great point you've made re the air-flow direction and dust that can get in the router.
Nice design feature with the Triton.
One my P-C routers, fresh air enters thru the top-side of the router and exits out the opp end.
When installed in the router cabinet, there is amply opening in the top of the door area, so as to draw in fresh air, for the router. The bottom of the door, fits close to the cabinet base, so as to prevent dust from being sucked into the vent on the router.
When the router is in use in my router cabinet, I hook up my shop vac so as to suck up most the wood dust.
Some dust still accummulates in the cabinet, with the vac hooked up, both top and bottom of the cabinet.
A far lot less than without a vac hooked up.
When I'm done with my routing tasks for the day, and before putting them away,
I blow out the dust, using my air-compressor.
It seems to work fine--- but, I do exercise caution so that dust particles don't get stuck into some of the crevices. Dust insulates the components, causing overheating.
I do try to do a thorough job of cleaning out the wood dust, which reduces the likelihood of failure.
I've serviced several tools for others, that were covered with old dust and gunk, inside the machines.
The wood dust contains resins, and will cause the dust to stick, making it difficult to remove, which will lead to premature failure. Some gunk needs to be litterly scraped out.
Some of these people complain about the tools failed/didn't hold up---and give the tool a bad rap.
I recently serviced an old biscuit cutting machine---the guy noted that it didn't work, like when it was new---the blades weren't cutting, just burning the wood---he said it's perhaps worn-out.
After giving it a good cleaning---and cleaning the cutters, it operated like it was new.
Jay Boutwell said:
>>>The Triton has several desired features that others do not. ....
The best feature that I have found to be desirable is the fact that the Triton pulls air in from the top and push it out from the bottom. Since it is a upside down when mounted in a table the Triton blows the dust out and away from the router motor rather that sucking it in.
I would recommend the Triton's and for the router table I would take the 3 and 1/4 hp model. /p>