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I am sure this has been covered before but I couldn't find it. Can anyone recommend a router for the kreg PRS1040. My budget for the router it's self is around $250-300. Thanks,

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First thanks to everyone. I am relatively new to the wood working game. I worked construction on and off before I joined the military so I have a basic understanding of most power tools, and the different companies that make them. That being said it has been over 15 years since I picked up a router. (High school shop class). Although this is only going to be a hobby I have found over the past year that I absolutely love Woodworking I find it both challenging and relaxing. Some nights I have looked at the clock and before I knew it it was 5 o'clock in the morning. When I am down there it's like the world stops and it's just me and my tools. Going down into my shop is something that excites me still almost everyday. So as I continue to grow my shop I am trying to be meticulous as possible. I don't need everything to be perfect but I want it to be as perfect as I can get it. When I first started buying tools I found myself looking for the most expensive brand and buying it thinking more money= a better product. I found out very quickly that was not the case. This is going to be a very expensive addition to my shop and I have been saving for a long time to be able to make this purchase. So once again thanks for any and all advice. Ken is right Reviews on amazon and other websites can be helpful sometimes but I find that they can be very misleading as well. Basing what you are going to purchase solely by amazon ratings is a horrible idea. I learned the hard way. I am trying to be a sponge right now so once again thank you for any and all of your information. Being able to pick the brains of experienced carpenters right from my work shop has become the cheapest and most valuable tool I have in my tool box.
Everything you said makes perfect sense. Since I am just starting out I don't know what I may need it for in the future. Right now 1/4" bits will probably all I need but in the future that may change. Since money is always a factor I am leaning on getting a router with the 3 1/4hp. I'f I did get the smaller one I am sure that something will come up in the future and I will need a router with a bigger motor. So I am torn between "over buying" or not trying to plan ahead. Now I know the easiest solution is just to buy both but unfortunately that is just not an option right now. "Wish it was". Thoughts???


David Ware said:

Since my router will spend it's life under the table in a cabinet  running smaller bits I didn't  need the power and size. The smaller one has a better balance and feel in my smaller hands. I have tools from most all manufactures so some that work for me get used more. I spend a lot of time on research before buying on utube watching tools in use and watching how the operators hands move the tool to see how it would work for me. Tools can also get over engineered. you can get a pocket hole jig at the china knockoff outlet that makes really sloppy holes, or a high priced overfeatured unit that takes more to adjust when you move your workpiece when you use the Kreg jig simpler unit twice as fast with better results. There's  my 2 cents, your results  may vary.

Luke Troughton said:

Can I ask why you choose the MOF001 over the TRA001. Only a $20 price difference. Researching routers and router table is overwhelming. Nevermind when you get into accessories. It seems like it is never ending. I also see that amazon sells the whole combination router/table package.
Thanks again for the advice. I can use all the help I can get.

Thanks for great info on the air flow. It's something I never would have thought of (at least before buying it, on my own. It seems like a no brainer that all router should be that way but I could just be missing something. And I already have a saw dust problem. So bad in fact that I purchase a Wen dust collector. Haven't gotten it yet but I hope it works well. It was a lot of money to spend on saw dust.


Jay Boutwell said:

The Triton has several desired features that others do not.  Plenty of power at 3 and 1/4 horse is enough to turn large bits with out bogging down.  It has the soft start speed control on the router that easy to adjust.  The adjustable through the table is a desirable feature and you can also adjust it from under the table depending on your likes and dislikes.  The best feature that I have found to be desirable is the fact that the Triton pulls air in from the top and push it out from the bottom.  Since it is a upside down when mounted in a table the Triton blows the dust out and away from the router motor rather that sucking it in.  On my prior router table I had a hatachi mv 12  of which had plenty of power at also 3 and 1/4 horse and also the variable soft start speed using the included built in dial.  The problem it was frequent filling up with chips and wood dust and require freguent cleaning out.  The final death of the router motor was the speed control that was electronic and an expensive part that took about two weeks to obtain.  The cause was the motor bound up with chips and when I turned it on one day it tried to start and made a big hum and immediately the electronic control smoked and died.  That was the second time and caused by the same thing.  Neither time did you have time to react to shut down even with your hand on the switch.  I also found that the collet was often loose  and galled the bit shanks with ease even though you took care and tighten the collet tight.  The triton had a great collet that stays tight even with 3 inch dia bits in hickory and other hard and grain twisted lumber.   I have has it now going on 8 years and never had a single problem with it and I use it every day in production of doors and other heavy routing tasks.  I would recommend the Triton's and for the router table I would take the 3 and 1/4 hp model.

I would like to point out something about router bits.  The 1/4 inch shank are not the best choice if you want consistent accuracy and a longer lasting bit.   Everyone knows that the carbide edge bit are the ones to buy however that is something else that is often not considered when choosing bits.  The very fact that routers spin an very high speeds and with this speed comes heat, the enemy of the cutting tool edges. With this comes stability against accuracy of the cutting surface on the shank on where or not it remains straight and accurate.  This being said the 1/2 inch dia shank is the better choice as it has more metal to dissolve more heat quickly thus allowing a cooler bit cutting edge surface.   It should also be noted that the larger shank grips in the collet better and also important is that the larger shank with absorb more vibration.

Dust collection is always a problem with control and if not controlled it can become a risky health problem and especially in later age.  I have a dust collection system of which I have built up  and it has improved my health to a noticeable degree.  The guts of my system is a 3 hp Jet of which I have made additions to by piping the dust for the machines back top the dust collector.  I am currently designing a complete rebuild of the system where I will be building a muli stage vortex cyclone system by building a sheet metal cone that fits the current parts of the jet.  A cheap alternative is a dust collector from Harbor Freight of which is cheap enough but gives you the beginning of making the same system, although not the same amount of suction, but it is still sufficient to handle a small one man shop.  Pintrest has several drawings and illustration basics on making a system.  I highly encourage you to use some system to control dust as it does effect your health as well as a distraction to working wood as the dust becomes a dirty environment.  It gets into you home from your clothing as well as any attached shop to the home it can become saturated through out your home through the circulation system of your heating and cooling systems.

Count me in on the Triton TRA001 3.25hp router. You can find them around $250. Mine is doing a stellar job. The built in lift isn't as smooth as others but does the job just fine.

I also strongly agree with the need for adequate dust collection for quality work and safety.

And again, as someone mentioned, for a table setup, 1/2" shanks are much better. I have given away all my 1/4" bits - just too light for most of my work which is mostly cabinet doors, entry doors, and custom casework. Even on lighter projects like trays and jewelry boxes, the heavier shanks are preferable.
Thanks for the info. I am learning towards the TRA001. It's going to be a couple of weeks before I actually purchase it so I will have a little time to think about it. I did purchase the Wen 3410 air filtration system and it is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. I know it will not solve all my problems but it is a start. I did look at the Jet 708620b but it was just out of my price range. Between that and having my shop vac hooked up to most my tools it should at least help. It's not something I wanted to spend my money on but the wife put her foot down and said no more toys until I do something about all that dust. I hope I am not disappointed in the wen. It seemed to have good reviews and my shop is only about 20'x20'.

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