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quick question here for everyone, There are alot of plans out there to build router tables with a 3/4" inch plywood top, I'm working on one now, my question is this: router bits, from what I've read should be bottomed out in the collett then pulled out about an 1/8" give or take. now on a 3/4" top if you seat the bit correctly, the top is too thick for the bit to protrude correctly. Is it safe or even wise to have the shank of the bit pulled far enough out of the collett for it to clear the top of the table? I don't want  the bit implanted in my forehead! Any tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated....Thanks!

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Hi leonard. That's the purpose of the router plate, provide a sturdy support for the router in a thin enough medium not to rob a lot cut depth. That's why most are made of aluminum or phenolic with some polycarbonate.

To answer your question is it safe or wise to pull the bit out of the collet that far,,, no.

Hi leonard, john is correct about the router plate.You can get a router collett extension piece but the one i had seemed to put a heavy load on the motor.I was never really happy with the collett extension, especially one day i was not concentrating and did not install it in the router correctly. The result was a router bit and extension collett whizzing round the shop like a guided missile.I hit the deck and the offending object smashed my strip light .Lesson learned i bought a kreg router table [ get a router plate ] be safe.Regards mick /uk.

I have a lift and it allows the collet to extend through. I would think a plate would do the same.

Do you have a lift where the router base is removed and just the motor installed in the lift? That is why you can change bit above the table. Plate mounting requires the motor and base kept as a unit so you need a router that will extend the collet below it's base plate, not all do.

Hugh Clare said:

I have a lift and it allows the collet to extend through. I would think a plate would do the same.

You're correct, John. I have a Bench Dog lift and the router is installed sans base.

John Schaben said:

Do you have a lift where the router base is removed and just the motor installed in the lift? That is why you can change bit above the table. Plate mounting requires the motor and base kept as a unit so you need a router that will extend the collet below it's base plate, not all do.

Hugh Clare said:

I have a lift and it allows the collet to extend through. I would think a plate would do the same.

I have the same issue.  You can see the table I built here:

http://kregjig.ning.com/photo/pre-finish-mock-up-of-router-table

I didn't think about the issue until I read this thread and test fit my old Black & Decker router.  I am learning the terminology, but are you suggesting I lose the plate and mount directly to the wood top?  This is the first router table I've ever had, so I am a little lost and want to make sure I am safe.  

Hi Justin - I don't see a plate on the table you linked to. That makes me pretty sure we have a terminology issue. This is the type of plate I'm referring to

http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/Kreg/products/PRS3030.asp?ca...

Much thinner than the plywood top but ridgid enough to securely hold the router. Otherwise the table top eats a lot of cut depth. Many are tempted to just pull the bit up out of the collet to get it high enough but that is an unsafe practice.

I am not particularly endorsing the Kreg plate although it is a good one. There are many cheaper out there and some make their own from 3/8 lexan or 1/4" aluminum.

Justin Everett said:

I have the same issue.  You can see the table I built here:

http://kregjig.ning.com/photo/pre-finish-mock-up-of-router-table

I didn't think about the issue until I read this thread and test fit my old Black & Decker router.  I am learning the terminology, but are you suggesting I lose the plate and mount directly to the wood top?  This is the first router table I've ever had, so I am a little lost and want to make sure I am safe.  

I agree with most here! I am building the Kreg outer table cabinet but will be buying the table top! I think a plywood top leaves too much room for error plywood can warp, twist and too much else. Get a professional premade top for solid accurate, precise work!!!

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