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Introducing the Kreg Rip-Cut™


Available at Kreg Dealers everywhere

$34.99


Ripping down large panels into smaller more manageable workpieces can be one of the trickiest, most intimidating, and expensive steps of any wood project. Even for experienced woodworkers ripping with the nicest table saws, you’re still forced to lift large heavy panels, balance them carefully to avoid binding and bowing, while at the same time trying to support the finished workpieces  and waste material as they exit the saw.

 

There is a faster way. There is an easier way! There is a better way.

Introducing the Kreg Rip-Cut™.

 

The Rip-Cut™ is an incredibly handy tool which speeds and simplifies the process of ripping down large plywood and MDF panels. No more taking your work to the saw, instead take the saw to your work. No measuring, no marking, no chalk lines – the Rip-Cut™ quickly and easily attaches to almost any circular saw, letting you cut pieces up to 24” wide with tremendous accuracy.

 

The Rip-Cut™ is a no-nonsense, straight forward, precision accessory for your circular saw that is so incredibly affordable it will pay for itself in no-time. It features a durable design including a solid aluminum guide rail, ultra-durable impact resistant plastic, an easy-to-read precision adjustable scale, and a reversible guide arm which works whether you’re left or right handed. It’s a super easy, precise, and affordable way to break down large panels for almost any project.

 

  • Connects to almost any circular saw – right or left blade
  • Reversible Guide Arm for Right or Left Hand Use
  • Makes rip cuts up to 24” wide
  • Rip sheets of plywood in half – in just one cut
  • No measuring, marking, and no chalk lines
  • 100% Guide support through entire cut
  • No need to remove Rip-Cut™ when doing cross cuts
  • Quick and accurate adjustments – no tools required
  • Lightweight/Sturdy Design for use on the jobsite

 

Materials:
High Quality Aircraft Aluminum
Impact Resistant Plastic Polymer

Aluminum Guide Rail:
3" wide x 30" long
 

Saw Sled

6 1/2" x 8 1/2" saw platform

Guide Arm:
2" wide x 10" long
Minimum 5" edge bearing at blade entry
Minimum 3" edge bearing at blade exit
 
Cut Width:
Maximum 24"

 

Check out the Rip-Cut on www.kregtool.com!

http://www.kregtool.com/RipCut-Prodview.html

 

 

 

 

 

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Anyone have any recomendations for a blade for the Rip Cut and a 7 1/4 circulal saw?

I don't know why using an edge guide would impact the type of blade. I use a 36 tooth diablo most of the time, a 24 tooth diable for rough/framing cuts and keep a 60 tooth Freud for finish type cuts. Use of an edge guide doesn't impact my selection.

Gary roofner said:

Anyone have any recomendations for a blade for the Rip Cut and a 7 1/4 circulal saw?

I didn't know if there was any specialty blades like for a tablesaw to get a better cut. For examples thin curf,  lazer balancing cuts in the blade. In the past I would use my table saw for everything. Now I don't have to manhandle plywood on table saw. I guess I just want to get a better blade than the one that came with the saw. Want know others use and recommend.

There are  many many specialty blades for 7¼ saws, likely more than there are for 10" as they also encompass masonry and ferrous as well as non-ferrous.  There are plywood specific blades also, I'm sure I've seen them at Home Depot. One is from Freud and Oldham is another mfg of plywood blades. I'm sure there are others as well.

Nice jig for small cuts. If you have to cut a 4x8 sheet in half (crosscut) Make a simple jig out of 1/4" hardboard. Cut a piece 4" wide of the factory edge. and a piece wider than your saws base plate pluss the 4" piece.  Line them  up 4" piece on top of the say 10" piece, factory edge in so saw can ride against it. Glue them together. Set your saw to cut 1/4" deep pluss a hair and cut off the what is left. This fits this saw. line up your jig on your marks and cut away. Works great to break up large sheet goods and you can make the jig any lenght you need. I have a 4' and a 8" one. Then I can use the tablesaw to cut to final size. cost is about $13.00 for 1/4' hardboard. You can use 1/2' plywood as well.

To cut a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood or other goods, I mark the plywood where I want the cut, then attach a straight edge with c-clamps, I usually use a 2" x 4" for this purpose. I had an aluminum straight edge for this purpose, but found it wasn't as true as I wanted it to be. I measure over 1 3/16" or 1 1/4" over depending on which side of the cut the blade will be on. I set the saw blade to exceed the depth of the plywood by 1/16" or 1/8". I usually cut my work on 4' wide home made saw horses. I place 3 or 4, 2x4's under the work to hold the work off the saw horses and to prevent the sawn off piece from falling or twisting or turning on the saw and creating a hazard. When I do the cut, I sometimes cut into the supporting 2x4s, I have a set of 2x4s which I use exclusively for this purpose. I once had a kickback accident because the plywood was not secured properly, the only thing that saved me was the saw blade guard. So now am very cautious about how I use the circular saw.

Good idea...thanks!

Roland Mengel said:

Nice jig for small cuts. If you have to cut a 4x8 sheet in half (crosscut) Make a simple jig out of 1/4" hardboard. Cut a piece 4" wide of the factory edge. and a piece wider than your saws base plate pluss the 4" piece.  Line them  up 4" piece on top of the say 10" piece, factory edge in so saw can ride against it. Glue them together. Set your saw to cut 1/4" deep pluss a hair and cut off the what is left. This fits this saw. line up your jig on your marks and cut away. Works great to break up large sheet goods and you can make the jig any lenght you need. I have a 4' and a 8" one. Then I can use the tablesaw to cut to final size. cost is about $13.00 for 1/4' hardboard. You can use 1/2' plywood as well.

I just bought mine.  This will help with crosscuts until I get my sled built...

Try U Tube they have some of the best woodworking video's around. You name it you can find it. Charles neil ,The woodwhisperer just to name two.

David Shinkle said:

Good idea...thanks!

Roland Mengel said:

Nice jig for small cuts. If you have to cut a 4x8 sheet in half (crosscut) Make a simple jig out of 1/4" hardboard. Cut a piece 4" wide of the factory edge. and a piece wider than your saws base plate pluss the 4" piece.  Line them  up 4" piece on top of the say 10" piece, factory edge in so saw can ride against it. Glue them together. Set your saw to cut 1/4" deep pluss a hair and cut off the what is left. This fits this saw. line up your jig on your marks and cut away. Works great to break up large sheet goods and you can make the jig any lenght you need. I have a 4' and a 8" one. Then I can use the tablesaw to cut to final size. cost is about $13.00 for 1/4' hardboard. You can use 1/2' plywood as well.

Just finished cutting out the pieces for a book shelf with the rip cut jig. It did a great job on the long cuts, however, I found that the side guide needs to be a little longer for cross cuts. There is not enough length behind the blade to allow the blade to finish the cut. But overall it is a great tool I will use again.

I've just used my Rip-Cut for the first project; it worked well for some of the cuts, with two exceptions; short cuts and longer pieces that are more than 24".  For example, I had several shelves that were 18 inches wide and 31" long. I was able to cut the sheet stock lengthwise (the 18" cut), but then I had to use the saw freehand to cut the 30" length. I thought I could use it with the last cut (which required me to trim about 3" off the end) but I couldn't close the guide to that width. To be fair I suppose I could have reversed the fence, but I use the saw right-handed so that wasn't really an option.

Without a large shop, you still end up doing panel cuts by hand.

I use an easy to make jig to do all my cuts on large heavy sheets. Like 3/4" ply ,melamine, MDF etc. I have a table saw but large sheets are hare to handle by yourself.  for the jig use hardboard or 1/2" ply cuta a piece  about 4 " wide by what ever length,   you need. make sure you use a factory edge on one side. Then cut cut a piece about 10" wide by the same  length. Glue the 4" piece ontop of the 10' piece with good edge facing in. now use your saw to cut off the waste running saw along factory edge.  You can make these jigs any size you need. nowjust align the cut-off edge to your marks on the piece your cutting. Clamp in place and cut away. This jig will fit that saw only. make a good straight cut every time. i have a 8" and a 4" sixe for ripping and cross cuts.

Thanks for your comment



Derek Gould said:

I've just used my Rip-Cut for the first project; it worked well for some of the cuts, with two exceptions; short cuts and longer pieces that are more than 24".  For example, I had several shelves that were 18 inches wide and 31" long. I was able to cut the sheet stock lengthwise (the 18" cut), but then I had to use the saw freehand to cut the 30" length. I thought I could use it with the last cut (which required me to trim about 3" off the end) but I couldn't close the guide to that width. To be fair I suppose I could have reversed the fence, but I use the saw right-handed so that wasn't really an option.

Without a large shop, you still end up doing panel cuts by hand.

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