Proper measurement

[Ed Hack]

Hi, Folks--

It turns out that the wood I'm working with is 23/32nds. What would be the correct measurement from the shoulder of the bit for such a width? Thanks for the help!
Ed

[Ric]

I'd set it for 3/4". I don't have my adjustment guide in front of me, but set it up as if you are using 3/4" wood. It's only 1/32" difference.

[Ed Hack]

Thanks, Ric--

Having never used the jig before and being new to carpentry, I was worried that I'd go into the jig.

I appreciate your feedback.

Ed

[Dan F.]

Ed,

In setting it up for 3/4" you will not go into your jig. However since this is slightly less than 3/4" the screw tips might start to bulge out your receiving piece on occasion. If you have this problem you can change your depth collar setting to 3 1/2" instead of the 3 9/16" that is recommended. This should take care of any problems that you may run across.

[Ed Hack]

Thanks very much, Dan--

I'll experiment with some scraps to test 3 1/2 out.

I appreciate your suggestion.

Ed

In setting it up for 3/4" you will not go into your jig. However since this is slightly less than 3/4" the screw tips might start to bulge out your receiving piece on occasion. If you have this problem you can change your depth collar setting to 3 1/2" instead of the 3 9/16" that is recommended. This should take care of any problems that you may run across.

[DAVID CZUPRYN]

Let's try to clear up some basics,first.My jig is the original k-2. Like me it's somewhat old and some maysay,obsolete.Nevertheless,it came with excellant instruction books. With this tool,there is no automatic set up for any wood thickness. All step collar adjustments are made completly by the user. Once you become familiar with this info,you can adjust for almost ay thickness of material ! These paper back books are invaluable to me,and continue to serve as my go to source for any concern I may have.These books may still be available from kreg; also check out the cabinet making books once available too Bought this tol for face frame joinery,15 years ago;still performs flawlessly today,as it did when I bought it at the wood show,long ago.I even hve the original drill bit too. Never had it sharpened!! Never broke it,either. Hope this helps you.

[Ron Ralph]

Be careful with plywood. If you over-torque your drill, your screws will spin out, rendering your hole useless. I have not had any luck using the Kreg jig with plywood. I have tried clamping the pieces together with their 90 degree angle clamp, and it chips out the holes.

[Derek]

Ron, I'm wondering why you keep having these problems with plywood, because my experience has been quite the opposite. The desk I built (posted here) had over 30 holes drilled in plywood and it worked flawlessly. I'm also working on a set of nightstands which utilize plywood a lot, and I've had great luck there as well.

I'm using cherry plywood for the sides and top of the nightstands. What type of plywood are you using? Have you double-checked your jig/bit settings? Are you using coarse thread screws?



Ron Ralph said:

Be careful with plywood. If you over-torque your drill, your screws will spin out, rendering your hole useless. I have not had any luck using the Kreg jig with plywood. I have tried clamping the pieces together with their 90 degree angle clamp, and it chips out the holes.

[DAVID CZUPRYN]

Ed,try this;it works every time Using a scrap piece of material { what ever you're using } drill a test hole and drive a screw into the hole. Look carefully to make sure the screw exits the materal in the center of the work piece. If it does not, adjust the stp collar accordingly. Take your time and adjust carefully. Once set you're to go. If the screw projects too long, back down the stop collar.

[Ed Hack]

Hi, David--

Good advice; this is what I wound up doing--and do each time I begin a project. Nothing beats a test-run to make sure that the collar is in the right place. Thanks for taking the time to help me out.

Ed

DAVID CZUPRYN said:

Ed,try this;it works every time Using a scrap piece of material { what ever you're using } drill a test hole and drive a screw into the hole. Look carefully to make sure the screw exits the materal in the center of the work piece. If it does not, adjust the stp collar accordingly. Take your time and adjust carefully. Once set you're to go. If the screw projects too long, back down the stop collar.

[John P. Stombaugh]

I am new to Kreg Joinery. My wife's eyebrows raised a bit when the saw the price of the K3 Master System. To settle her down a bit I downloaded the Kreg Potting Bench plans and knocked the project out in fairly short order - all is good now. Now to the point - measure, measure, measure - and drill test holes in scrap material.

I followed the plans to the "T". It shows to set the drill collar at 1 and 1/8 inch when drilling the supports for the top (bench) boards - 1". Well, the first screw not only bulged, but stuck it's little nose through the board - OK, simple fix, use shorter screws and fill the hole. Then I took a good long look at the collar setting marks on the jig. I either don't understand fractions or these marks are wrong - there doesn't appear to be any rhyme or reason to them - check yours out. I will definitely be doing more measuring and not take the markings as gospel in future. Happy joining.

[Dan F.]

John,

I ran into the same problem when I made my Potting bench. I found that there was a typo and you should use the 1 1/2" screws instead of the suggested 2".

The markings were a little confusing to me as well when I first started. I then realized that the reason some of the markings were the same was due to you using a different length of screws. Take for instance the 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" markings. You set your depth collar the same distance for both but you will use 2" screws for one and 2 1/2" screws for the other. Hopefully this makes a little more sense.