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Does anyone know if it's possible to use my Kreg jig to join  2x6 bed rails to 4x4 posts using 2.5 inch screws? I was thinking of 3-4 holes per rail side for a total of 12-16 for the twin-sized daybed. Strength is important to me as is the ability to deconstruct the sides for a move.

 

I certainly COULD order bed fasteners, but I was hoping to complete my daybed before company comes this weekend and I'd have to order the fasteners. Thanks. Sara

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Hi Sara - Sure it's possible.. And probably just the ticket for getting one together quickly. It's the repeated  disassembly/reassembly that may bog down. I suspect after tearing it down and putting it together a few times, it will no longer tighten up.
Thanks John. We don't plan to move much as we are quite settled, but it's always a possibility. Maybe I'll put it together for this weekend and then see if I should make changes later. The bed rails aren't very much work so I could also always duplicate them easily if need be.
Sounds like a plan - Good Luck:-)

I have built many beds and I personally don't recommend this connection for simple reason they are not  gearded for heavy load limits.I would use a bed connection system that sells at Rocler or other sources. Just my opinion

Good luck

I would go with Jens post. It will make it easy to take apart and to assemble. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11&filter=bed%20hardware

I would recommend that myself except it doesn't meet the OP requirement of obtaining the hardware by the weekend.

Another way would be to use hanger bolts in the ends of the bed rails with a counter sink in the bed posts to recess the washer and nut. Cover the countersink hole with wood plugs. I would recommend two 3/8" hanger bolts in each end of each bed rail, 8 bolt assemblies all told. Hardware should be available at most hardware stores.

will delaney said:

I would go with Jens post. It will make it easy to take apart and to assemble. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11&filter=bed%20hardware

Nuts. After much deliberation, I've ordered the Rockler system, although it doesn't look like much and it makes me nervous that they don't give a weight limit for their hardware when properly installed. My daughter's bed, which I did not build, is solid but uses only two countersunk bolts in each 1x6 rail. I don't expect my daybed to take on much weight but who knows, maybe my little guy will monkey around and jump on the bed when I'm not looking (all 26 pounds of him). Looks like my company will be sleeping on a mattress on the floor for a while...

 

I even asked Rockler if they would FedEx the parts to me, but they said no.

I know it will be fine. Rockler has a good reputation and if you read the reviews on the hardware you can see that they were positive . Just sorry you won't get it on time. There are a lot of plans for making beds and headboards with the Kreg jig and now that you have the hardware that could be you next project. I will be looking for you bed project post. Happy and safe woodworking.

Thanks all. I think I've found a temporary solution for my weekend guest. I was going to build a trundle bed "one day" for my daybed but it turns out that I have all the materials on hand for that project now. So, I will get my bed finished in time, it just won't be the right one.

Sara,

 

Pocket holes would be OK as you are using  the max amount of screws possible IE 4.

I would also suggest

 

The timber frame is hardwood and its a single bed only

 

1. Gauge the max length of the screw to be fitted, and use them I think 2.5" is the max kreg make however nothing stopping you using decking screws

 

2. Consider also using a high strength glue adhesive to supplement the screws if possible.

 

enjoy

 

Robert Brennan

Thanks Robert.

 

I ended up doing that for my trundle bed, which is a solid bed that doesn't disassemble (pocket holes with alternating straight 5" screws and wood glue). For the daybed, I'd like the possibility of being able to take it apart in case we move.

 

Sara

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