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Ok, so I bought the Kreg Jig, read the instructions, watched the video, bought the wood.  Something is not right.  After I start drilling the pockets, the jig starts making loud squeaking sounds.  Also, the bit gets stuck in the wood.  I've tried going slow and varing the torque. I've checked and double checked the depth collar and the height of the drill guide. The bit after getting jammed, already shows scratches!  I just bought it a few weeks ago!!  In fact, a couple of the pockets weren't as deep as the rest.  Whats the dealio? 

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  There is a product on today's market, called ''GIBBS penetrating oil''.

It's a CLP, (cleaner-lubricant_preservative),  I've used it for many years, for a variety of tasks.

http://www.getgibbs.com/

GIBBS states, ''Gibbs is the only lubricant you will need for your every need. Be it home, marine or farm''.

  GIBBS is a low viscosity ultra penetrating lubricating oil, that enters the pores of metal.

  GIBBS can be applied to the flutes of a drill bit, using a small piece of cotton cloth---apply the lube to the cloth and wipe it on.

  Additional info---

  USE GIBBS TO:

  • Prevent Electrical Connections from Oxidizing
  • Lubricate Tools and Machinery
  • Protect Saw Blades, Drill Bits and Router Bits
  • Protect Master Cylinders
  • Protect Bare Metal Surfaces On Vehicles
  • Loosen Corroded Gears, Engines, Hinges and Bolts
  • Revitalize and Protect All Metals From Water
  • Remove Surface Rust From Chrome and Painted Surfaces
  • Lubricate and Waterproof Hinges, Latches, Locks, Machinery and Equipment
  • Waterproof & Prevent Rust On Fresh Welds
  • Lubricate Computer Hard Drive Bearings

Martie, I have been using wd-40, but the CLP may be better, by spraying it on paper towels and then every so often touching the "wet" paper towels to the spinning drill bit up at the top by the collar where there is no flutes to cut the paper.  I find that this not only lubricates the drill but keeps the drill clean -- the towel turns black anyway.

This way I don't get the spray lube every where, including where I want to glue.

After I posted this, I realized that I am doing the same thing Ken is doing, so I must be headed in the right direction.

Women's ''facial cleaning and applicator pads'', those small round cotton-like material thingee's,

are very handy to have around the shop, tool box, and the like, where a small applicator is more useful.

  Apply a small amount of lube to the pad, and whip it on.

  The pads are also useful for applying furniture paste wax to small areas, applying stain, rust removal, cleansers, stain, plus hundreds of other uses, where a small applicator is more useful.

  If one desires to reuse the pads, they can be stored in a zip-lock bag and labeled with it's contents.

(small size zip-lock type bags, such as 2x3, 3x3, 3x4 are very useful to have around the shop, for storing small objects, screws, nuts, washers, fasteners, and the like).

  Another handy item are gun cleaning patches.  Obtain the 3'' size, and cut 'em down to size to suit.

What kind of drill do you have? Have you dropped it with a bit in it? When you have the long square Kreg bit chucked up and pull the trigger, does it look like it is "wobbling" Could have a jacked up drill. It happened to me once. Had to buy a new drill. Check it out.

I had a drill bit, that was ''squeaking'', while drilling---

I applied a small amount of ''boiled linseed oil'' to the flutes---

walla---it quieted those squeakers.

(I just happened to have a can of the oil nearby, while refurbishing some garden tools).

A very handy material to have around the shop.

I sprayed mine with some Teflon Dry Wax spray and that works great.  Also, it wont leave oil in the wood.

are you using a vacuum attachment?

If the vac is nearby,

will the squeaking sound not be heard? 



Pierre Vallee said:

are you using a vacuum attachment?

NO NO! if the vac is attached, the wood might not bind up in the hole. Get it?

Pierre,

I generally don't experience any problems with wood binding up in the holes.

However; when it does occur, I use a larger bit.

For larger holes and in big timbers, I use the ''self-feed'' style boring bits, 

and a 6 to 12'' extension, when boring ''deep'' holes. 

When boring the large and deep holes, I have my shop vac near by, and suck up the sawdust and chips into a 5 gal bucket.


Pierre Vallee said:

NO NO! if the vac is attached, the wood might not bind up in the hole. Get it?

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