Newbie - Kreg Owners' Community2024-03-28T23:58:53Zhttps://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/newbie-1?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A16418&xg_source=activity&feed=yes&xn_auth=noHopefully you can access the…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-01-30:2900167:Comment:171752010-01-30T06:06:13.215ZJerry A. Braunerhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/JerryABrauner
Hopefully you can access the file I attached. It's the complete set of plans for the bed.<br />
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Thanks!<br />
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v/r<br />
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Jerry
Hopefully you can access the file I attached. It's the complete set of plans for the bed.<br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
<br />
v/r<br />
<br />
Jerry I thank both of you for the c…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-01-29:2900167:Comment:171512010-01-29T22:38:10.705ZJerry A. Braunerhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/JerryABrauner
I thank both of you for the comments and you're definitely right Phil, I should have provided much more information than I did. Here's the additional information:<br />
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The project is a full size Murphy bed. The two pieces of Maple plywood I'm using are the face of the bed that shows when the bed is in the up position and are going to be joined along the 75" edge. There is a frame that is attached to these two pieces and then two pieces of 1/4" plywood are attached to the frame for the mattress to…
I thank both of you for the comments and you're definitely right Phil, I should have provided much more information than I did. Here's the additional information:<br />
<br />
The project is a full size Murphy bed. The two pieces of Maple plywood I'm using are the face of the bed that shows when the bed is in the up position and are going to be joined along the 75" edge. There is a frame that is attached to these two pieces and then two pieces of 1/4" plywood are attached to the frame for the mattress to lay on. By design I'd guess the weight will be pretty evenly distributed so there shouldn't be to much stress located in any one area. The location is the bedroom so there shouldn't be any problems with moisture (at least I hope there isn't). The groove and spline is exactly what the plans call for.<br />
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Anyway, I thinks that's all the extra information I have. I'll definitely make sure I square everything up before starting to actually assemble the bed.<br />
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Again, thanks to both of you for the advice.<br />
<br />
v/r<br />
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Jerry<br />
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<cite>Phillip said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/newbie-1?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A16481&xg_source=msg_com_forum#2900167Comment16481"><div>Jerry:<br/>You can do this type of project. As Bob said it is done all the time. For the future it is a good idea to include some information as to materials, end use, stress by use when finished, and particular problems. Even if those problems are your lack of tooling, or skills, everyone here is in the same way, no one knows it all, and no one has the perfect shop with every tool their hearts desires. To help you better we need to know things like the following. What kind of plywood? Baltic birch is miles different from A/C shop grade and the way they screw up is different. What is the end use of the project? Wet locations have a couple more issues that need to be planned for in the beginning. Which edge is getting the joint? The 75" or the 27"? After you join the two are they going to be a table top or a counter top or base for a mural on the wall. From the clues in your description you make me wonder if you are not talking about a groove and spline? Cut a groove in the plywood edge and then add a cut spline (long strip) of wood (the third wood piece in the equation) that is inserted between the two mated pieces? If my guesses are correct, then you are planning to make a spline joint along the 27" dimension? To spline the 75" way makes no sense at all to me. So then the other way is two 75" long pieces joined across the 27" butts and then you end up with a 27" wide board that is 150" long. Is that the idea? If so, no problem with the pocket screws. I would use glue on the joint, and try to finish with the longest maxi head screw I could. There will be a bunch of stress on that joint coming from the ends, sort of a lever working on the end. In that case I would not even consider anything but the pocket screw. The spline or dowels will give you more glue surface and a dowel in the ends helps distribute the weight, but none the less, pocket screws. If there is high use and stress on the joint I would not be afraid of using screws every 2.5" to 3." across the joint. One more tip: You may not be aware that the mill edge of plywood is never square. You will need to be dead on square. A slight off square at 150" is impossible to fit. I would even trial fit the boards in place before you make the joint, if you can. There isn't a one of us that hasn't had some sort of unpleasant surprise.<br/>Feel free to correct or disagree anyone.<br/>Phil</div>
</blockquote> Edgejoining is something I do…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-01-26:2900167:Comment:164182010-01-26T21:27:29.499ZBob Farmerhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/BobFarmer
Edgejoining is something I do all the time with my Kreg Jig. It's great for creating tabletops, etc. As long as you've got good clamps for holding the wood secure... it's the perfect application for this technique. This Kreg video might be helpful to you:<br />
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By the way, welcome to the community... glad you stood up and asked a…
Edgejoining is something I do all the time with my Kreg Jig. It's great for creating tabletops, etc. As long as you've got good clamps for holding the wood secure... it's the perfect application for this technique. This Kreg video might be helpful to you:<br />
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By the way, welcome to the community... glad you stood up and asked a question!