Kreg Owners' Community

so I am somewhat a newbie to the kreg jig, i really like it, however...

 

once in a while my screw tip comes out....let me explain..

 

using 3/4 wood securing it to 3/4 wood, using 1/1/4 fine thread (hardwood)

I can have 4 jig holes on the same side of the same board, and for whatever reason i occassionally have one screw tip come out....

 

what is the problem? the jig? the placement of the board in the jig? I really think that the board is in the jig correctly, i can't figure it out...

 

any help wold be appreciated!

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try checking the drill stop as drilling just a 1/16th to deep can make the tip come through.
Check your Jig setup, drill stop depth, and your board thickness, make sure they are all 3/4". Make sure you are not trying to tighten down too tight, you can over drive a screw and come out the board. This is more common with soft woods.
Make sure your boards are cut square, if the boards are not square cut and there is a gap, you have a tendency to drive the screw tighter to close the gap.
Make sure your boards are pulled together as tightly as possible and secured with a clamp when inserting the screws. if the boards separate while driving the screw, it will change the spot where the screw enters the board and will come through.

Bob
Anytime this has happened to me, it has been due to over tightening the screw and usually with Pine because it is so soft.
I initially had that problem. Now I set the drill collar for just a tad shallower depth (about 1/16"). Another thing to check - make sure there is no sawdust between your board and the base of the jig. If you have any there, it moves the position of the drilled hole too close to the edge.
thanks to all for your help, it could be a number of those things!
it just got so annoying that after all the work a screw pops out. I am sure with all the tips that people passed along it will help....
...first things first. Here's a simple trick when making pocket holes in 3/4" material. On either the K3 or K4 models (for that matter, older units like the K2000), slip a nickel coin under the tip of the drilling/boring bit while it rests in the jig drill guide. This gives you just enough space and assures that your depth collar is set right. The nickel (its thickness) provides just the right amount of space when drilling 3/4" sized workpieces.
This is a great tip. Thanks for sharing. Can't wait to give it a try myself.




Garry Graves said:
...first things first. Here's a simple trick when making pocket holes in 3/4" material. On either the K3 or K4 models (for that matter, older units like the K2000), slip a nickel coin under the tip of the drilling/boring bit while it rests in the jig drill guide. This gives you just enough space and assures that your depth collar is set right. The nickel (its thickness) provides just the right amount of space when drilling 3/4" sized workpieces.
I experienced this when working with what I thought was 3/4 laminated pine. Turned out it was closer to 5/8 so had to raise the bit adjustment to compensate. Presto no more problems
If you are not careful when you are driving the kreg screw it can take off to the side of the pilot hole. It is like a drill. Be sure your screw is well seated down into the pilot hole before you start driving it. I hope this helps

Hal
good advise

Hal Schmidt said:
If you are not careful when you are driving the kreg screw it can take off to the side of the pilot hole. It is like a drill. Be sure your screw is well seated down into the pilot hole before you start driving it. I hope this helps

Hal
One thing for sure when shopping for wood the old school sizes are hard to find in some instances. Shop any Lowe's and you will find plywood from Canada sized in the metric to American equivalance. 15/32nds supposed to be 1/2" Ha Ha know what I mean. Surley I'm not the only one finding so called 1/2" running in 3/8" to 7/16 or other . Found 32/ 64ths & I think 19/64th plywood marked so ?????? man the import of lumber from other areas of the world come metric close to what we had stander but not quite! Have to pull out the tape or caliper frequently and even had to use 6 1/2" planer joiner to balance the material thickness in some cases. Sanding and blending. Modern headaches for old school builders.

Joseph

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