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I have been using the Kreg pocket hole system for over 6 years and this is my latest project that is under way. It's a matching set of Shelves to be installed on either side of my Client's fireplace. 

I am just about finished with the fabrication of the parts. 

In the video you will see how to avoid the hassles of drilling pocket holes when working with large pieces. The piece in the video is the back. 

Here's how I drill the pocket holes on the larger pieces, using the Kreg Jr. 


Here is the vertical sides and middle as well as the face frame for the lower cabinet area. 



Here are the 8 doors, I decided to change from the 2 door as the sketch shows to 4 doors per unit. By having 4 doors it creates a more traditional cabinet look.


 

Here are the 2 backs all drilled and ready to assemble.



Here I am using my Kreg 3 (with the very convenient front handle) to drill the pocket holes in the tops



Okay we now have the sides, back, top and face frame assembled.



On this one I have added the bottom, counter and the last section of the top. So, were getting there..


Stay tuned more to come.......

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Absolutely BEAUTIFUL work!!

Can you explain to me how you did the bead-board insets on the doors please?
Debra,

Thank you and of course, I just made the Stiles (side pieces) and Rails (top & bottom pieces) like I would for any raised panel cabinet door and instead of making a Raised Panel (the piece in the center) I just cut and inserted a piece of Wainscoting Material, which I bought in a 4'x4' sheet. The link below will show you a schematic of how the parts go together, hope this helps!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frame_and_panel

Robert
Okay, I viewed the schematic and I see how the panels go together. One more question (I am COMPLETELY new to this), do you use a router to create the space to insert the panel into? I hope that makes sense.

I'm asking because I have seen where the frame (stiles and rails) are put together and then a piece of plywood (or beadboard or whatever material being used for the center panel) is nailed over the face frame (from the backside) and made to look as if it has a true center panel. I prefer the method you have used. Thanks again for your help.
Okay you will need a few things to make this happen.
1) Raised Panel Router Bit set, This is what I use ---> http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/3-Pc-Cove-Raised-Panel-Set/productin...
2) Panelign Strips for positioning the center panel correctly ----> http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/200ct-Panelign-Strips/productinfo/PNL1/
3) A router table, this cannot be performed without one. You will either waste a lot of wood or get injured.
4) I would also suggest this ------>http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Arched-Raised-Panels-Made-Easy/produ...

**Also, never ever ever ever nail, glue or screw the center panel, it must be able to move as the temperatures rise and fall without splitting/cracking the wood on the cabinet door. The Panelign Strips (another product is "Spaceballs" http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/PSB-1000/Space-Ballstrade) will hold the center panel in position but allow it to move as needed. You only glue the Stiles to the Rails and be careful not to get glue into the area where the center panel is.
Saw a cool, low dollar, trick to keep the panels centered.

Make straight lines of silicone caulk on waxed paper

Allow them to cure, then peel them off and cut into 1/2 - 1 inch pieces.

Use a couple per side in the panel slots.

They allow for the needed expansion and contraction and a couple of bucks for caulk can make a whole lot of "panel snakes"

One last thing, I decorate cakes a little and this an icing trick for stringwork
The best way to keep the diameter uniform is to snip the tube to the diameter you want, maybe start a little undersized, then hold the caulk a little above the sheet and allow it to fall onto the waxed paper. You may even to put a lined sheet under so you can see straight lines.

Hope this helps.

brotherbd
Brett,

Not a bad idea if you have the time. With my schedule I'll spend the .02 cents per panelign strip or .16 cents per door. However, I will add that the panel strips are a much more flexible than a bead of cured caulk.

But, it's a good tip for those looking to save a few cents per door.

Robert

We now have the crown molding and the dentil molding installed

A side view of the shelf now all that is left is the banding around the top and counter!
Okay I am finally ready to start the finishing.....

Here they both are, you can see my "oops" on the shelf pin holes. Tried to squeeze 3 shelves in but did not take into consideration how low the front would be. Next time, drill after assembly!

There will be a total of 4 shelves 2 each side above counter and 1 small shelf inside cabinet on each side

A close up of the Top

Counter Edge Detail

Here you can see the shelf edge detail mimics the edging detail for the top and counter, just on a smaller scale.
Oh and the white filler is http://www.timbermate.com/product_description
I used white so that I wouldn't miss sanding an area that I filled, the shelves will be painted a white that matches the clients wood trim throughout the home. I am using http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/us/eng/products/sherwood_cabacrylic.... Sherwin-Williams is able to match most colors with their Sher-Wood CAB-Acrylic Lacquer.

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