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I cut small squares of cushioned white vinyl shelf liner and attached to the face of the clamp with 3M spray adhesive.  After it dried a couple of hours I used a sharp utility knife to trim away the excess.  So if I ever clamp finished wood, there will be less chance that it will be marred in the clamp while drilling. 

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George,

What other materials have you evaluated/tested, before deciding to finalize, using the material you've described? 

How do you keep the adhesive ''overspray'' from getting onto unwanted surfaces?

I've found ''adhesive backed'' felt material type pads, with a removal liner,  very effective.

These type pads are marketed for use under chair legs and table legs---

they prevent marring floor surfaces.

Home-centers stock this material.

It can be obtained in pre-cut rounds as well as rectangular shapes.

Adhesive backed double-stick foam tape, is also effective.  Remove the release liner before installing it onto the clamp face.  Cut into a square, attach the face clamp, and trim off the access, protruding out from the face clamp pads.

NOTE: DO NOT remove the release liner on the exposed face side, so that the pads don't stick to the workpiece.

This double stick foam tape is available at home-centers.  Similar material is used to secure carpeting.

Another handy similar material, marketed as ''wood turners tape'', is available in roll form, 1'' wide.

This is a handy product to have in a wood workers shop---very useful for many tasks, such as temporarily holding/clamping an object in place while performing a machining operation.

I used a plastic grocery sack and some blue tape.

Ken Darga said:

George,

What other materials have you evaluated/tested, before deciding to finalize, using the material you've described? 

How do you keep the adhesive ''overspray'' from getting onto unwanted surfaces?

What's the advantage(s) of using ''blue'' tape?

PS---

I've found that the Kreg tools clamp faces are smooth enough, that they don't need the added pads, for most clamping operations, when installed pocket hole screws.

Adding pads, to the clamp face reduces the ''resistance to slippage''.

Kreg's right angle clamp (Rockler #26720) has one side fit into the pocket hole and the other side has a small diameter pad.  When I used this on soft pine, I got noticeable "clamp-dimples" on my face frame, so any block of wood under the clamp protects the face frame.

Kreg should really make that clamp bigger and/or add a rubber clamp beneath it, like they did on their bench clamps. 

I tried using this clamp today and must be doing something wrong because it was not very helpful to me.  What was helpful was using several clamps to hold both pieces of wood in place. 

George,

I don't think you were using it wrong, it may be that it is not being used as intended.

The purpose of the right angle clamp, is to clamp and hold the joints together, while installing the screws.

http://www.kregtool.com/Right-Angle-Clamp-Prodview.html

Like Ken said, it helps to keep the joint aligned while you insert screws, since the screws tend to shift the wood slightly as they are tightened.

Ken Darga said:

The purpose of the right angle clamp, is to clamp and hold the joints together, while installing the screws.

Ken,

Thanks for the reply.  I looked at those photos and did not see an application that seemed to match what I was doing.  I will send a photo to you in the next day or so.

This video may be helpful.

Joining frames with the right angle clamp.

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