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No idea what I'm doing wrong here. I'm using 1/2" poplar that is a full 1/2". I have the micro jig and set it to 1/2" (or as close as I could-it doesn't fully seat in the big jig-and I did make sure it was seated all the way down with nothing in the way) and the drill bit is properly set to 1/2" too. I used the 1" pan head screws that Kreg recommended to me (via a facebook question) and they are going right through. I tried 3/4" ones and they just spin and the pieces fall apart. I'm attaching two pieces at a right angle. This stock is junk now since I drilled all of the holes first but what did I do wrong? I'm not happy since I spent all I had on this micro jig and the wood so it'll be a while before I can try again. In the meantime my project is trash. I'm about to throw the micro jig in the trash too if I hadn't spend $50 on it, not to mention the screws.

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It sounds like the drill stop was set to far, allowing the drill to make the hole too deep---

resulting in the screw protruding thru.

It's advisable to make practice pieces on scrap material, before proceeding to the finished product.



When installing the stop-collar, insure the point on the set-screw is in contact with the outside surface of the drill flute.

When inserting the drill bit into the drilling-guide-block, place a "dime" (coin) on the jig base, so the drill point tip rests on the dime, when installing the drill stop and tightening it into position.

(look down into the drill stop, and note where the tip of the set-screw is in relation to the flute on the drill bit).

If the set-screw tip is on the edge of the flute or in the groove, the stop-collar will slip "upward", when the set-screw is tightened---resulting in drilling the hole too deep and the screw point will exit the adjoining material.

Rotate the drill-bit and stop-collar 'til it makes proper contact, then tighten the set-screw.

But the bit was set correctly and I even checked to make sure that the collar didn't move.  I've had the regular jig for a while and have set it many times.

I'm waiting to hear back from the company. Maybe I have a defective micro jig or something.

Also I only bought enough for the project. I really don't have the money to buy scrap pieces.

Scraps pieces can generally be obtained for FREE, from some sources.

Try "dumpster diving" at HD---they have cut-offs or damaged goods, or the like.

I generally make it a standard practice to make sample test pieces, 

so as to become familar with the equipment, tools and materials, 

before proceeding to the end result.

Saves time and money in the long run.


I'm just going to fill all the holes with spackle, assemble with regular screws/nails, and paint it. Not my original plan but I have to make it work. I double checked after these posts and the collar is still set at 1/2" so it definitely was correct. I'm hoping to hear back from kreg tomorrow and maybe I can take some pics of the jig so they can see what I mean when I say it doesn't fully seat in the main jig.

Next time I make something I'll buy an extra piece for scrap. Around here people get in trouble for dumpster diving (people do it a lot to get coupons and it's an expensive fine). I think as I make more things I'll have more scrap leftover to use. I just happened to be using every bit of what I bought for this project and have not made many things yet so I don't have a good scrap supply going yet.


When working with the Micro Drill Guide Block and 1/2" material you will want to set the depth collar for 5/8" material as stated in the manual.  This way it will allow you to use the 3/4" screws.  If the screws are spinning in your piece, this means that you have over tightened them and stripped out the pocket hole.  You will have to adjust your clutch setting on your drill so that this does not happen.  This could also be the reason that your screws are going through when using the 1" version as well as they are being over driven.  Try these suggestions and if you are still having issues please let us know. 

But I was originally drilling for 1" screws so why would I follow the guidelines for 3/4". I don't even have enough of the 3/4" for my project-I was just trying them because the 1" didn't work. I contacted Kreg before I ordered and told them what I was using to find out the screws to use and I bought the screws they recommended. I have my clutch set pretty low so that it doesn't even tighten fully on the first round. I always do this and then set it a little higher to retighten all of the screws when I have the piece fully assembled. The holes were probably not working with the 3/4" because I had already tried the 1" with them. Should I redrill at 5/8" and buy a box of 3/4"? Would I be able to buy them without paying for shipping-my local store doesn't carry that size.

I'm not planning another project for a while but I don't want to keep the microjig for so long that it's no longer returnable if it is, indeed, defective. I'm hoping that Kreg emails me (I sent a message via facebook) so that I can get photos to them.

Well Gale I bet your filling pretty used about now ?

But there are some does and don’ts to using the Kreg Micro jig and one of them is you cant use it for the edge’s you well have lot more blow outs I learn it the hard way. So remember out side in not inside out.

And another thing with out a right angle clamp it is hard to clamp but you now that now so if I was you I would get some good pipe clamps.


As for myself I was like you I had a big job coming up a Double shoe rack to build and the micro jig looked like the tool for the job. well I build my own base drilled all my hole’s in my side’s that was a bad ideal like you I to was filling in hole’s and redrilling . But I set my collar with two nickel’s and a dime but that was with 1” course threaded screw’s that was the only thing they had at the time and your drill clutch well have to be set at 4 or 5 and you cant go at the screw’s like you can with the ¾” stock you have to go slow and some time’s you ll need a scerw drive to finish the job.

But it dose work you just need to learn the tick’s. One other thing I now a lady doesn’t do stuff like this but you batter half can look around where you live and see if there is a cabinet shop they have a dumpster there is always some good stuff in there my girls even help me.


Just remeber softwoods and plywood you use course therads and for hardwoods you use fine thread the preson on face book was worng.

Thanks for all the tips. Very helpful. From google searching it looks like poplar is a hardwood but on the softer side. So fine thread screws would be better? (too bad I bought a box of 100 coarse but I'm not sure if I even saw fine ones at amazon).  btw when  drilled I did make sure that it was going into the face of the bottom board and not into the end. But it was more like this (not my picture but the boards at the same angle and location of the holes). I will try it from the other side so it's more like your drawing. And you are right-I need more clamps. I like my right angle clamp but the round part only fits into original size pocket holes and I have only one bar clamp. I'm going to buy a few more.

I'm going to take some pictures of the jig tonight for a kreg csr and maybe they can shed a little more light on it.

Also, that shoe rack is amazing!!

I think I am a bit too late here. However the micro pocket hole jig manual says, with half inch material, set the jig for 1/2" material and the stop collar to 5/8" material and to use 3/4" pan head screws. In K5 there is block that sets the depth collar on the drill bit. This I set to 3/4". Tried it on 1/2" ply scrap. It worked pretty good. Now the right angle clamp won't fit into these pocket holes. More $ for a micro pocket right angle clamp. 

My jig was defective. They sent me a new one but I haven't tried it out on 1/2" stock yet.

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