MDF vs Plywood for garage workbench - Kreg Owners' Community2024-03-29T00:38:21Zhttps://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/mdf-vs-plywood-for-garage?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A39494&feed=yes&xn_auth=noWell that sucks! Yet another…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-05-25:2900167:Comment:398142010-05-25T20:31:16.984ZBen Socratoushttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/BenSocratous
Well that sucks! Yet another thing we get charged way too much for here in Australia :(<br />
<br />
I can get 18mm MDF at my local hardware store for around $30/sheet. The same size in plywood is $64/sheet! And to make it worse, that is structual ply, ie a pretty crappy finish on both sides. If I was to buy an A-grade finished sheet of ply from a timber supplier, I'd have to fork out around $120/sheet!!!
Well that sucks! Yet another thing we get charged way too much for here in Australia :(<br />
<br />
I can get 18mm MDF at my local hardware store for around $30/sheet. The same size in plywood is $64/sheet! And to make it worse, that is structual ply, ie a pretty crappy finish on both sides. If I was to buy an A-grade finished sheet of ply from a timber supplier, I'd have to fork out around $120/sheet!!! Ben Socratous said:MDF is eas…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-05-25:2900167:Comment:397972010-05-25T17:24:49.156Zrdjack21https://kregjig.ning.com/profile/rdjack21
<cite>Ben Socratous said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/mdf-vs-plywood-for-garage#2900167Comment39468"><div>MDF is easier to work, and a whole lot cheaper. Also with a decent coat of paint/lacquer it will handle moisture well (I left my bench out in the rain for a week while the shed got re-wired and was fine). The downside is that MDF is not as stiff as the plywood of the same thickness, ergo will need more support than the plywood would. Double thickness 18mm…</div>
</blockquote>
<cite>Ben Socratous said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/mdf-vs-plywood-for-garage#2900167Comment39468"><div>MDF is easier to work, and a whole lot cheaper. Also with a decent coat of paint/lacquer it will handle moisture well (I left my bench out in the rain for a week while the shed got re-wired and was fine). The downside is that MDF is not as stiff as the plywood of the same thickness, ergo will need more support than the plywood would. Double thickness 18mm MDF will aliviate that issue, I had a sheet of 25mm sitting in the shed for 2 years so I decided to use that!<br/> <br/>
*yes I work in metric measurements... deal with it, lol</div>
</blockquote>
<br />
Around here (Austin, Texas) birch plywood can be cheaper or only moderately more expensive than MDF for the same thickness. For instance at the local BB store 18mm MDF (it is called 3/4 but it is 18mm) is about $29.99 and 18mm birch ply is $36.23. But if you go to one of the local lumber dealers that sale to the cabinet makers you can get a higher quality birch ply for $28.00.<br />
<br />
What you have to be careful about when using Ply is that if you finish it you must finish both sides of it or it may/will warp. MDF is supposed to handle not being coated on one side a little better. i live in w.va.my bench is ve…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-05-25:2900167:Comment:397552010-05-25T13:06:34.499Zpauk d. kingsleyhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/paukdkingsley
i live in w.va.my bench is very low cost made from 2 kitchen base cabtens free and 3/4ply wood it steady takes abuse well my other bench is the kitchen conter shop is conveted 2bedroom tairler<br />
<br />
<cite>Steven M. Rundle said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/mdf-vs-plywood-for-garage#2900167Comment39494"><div>Hi Dan,<br></br> <br></br> had a similar quesiton earlier this year when I replaced my old work bench. I am originally from Toronto, but now live in Virginia. We get a lot…</div>
</blockquote>
i live in w.va.my bench is very low cost made from 2 kitchen base cabtens free and 3/4ply wood it steady takes abuse well my other bench is the kitchen conter shop is conveted 2bedroom tairler<br />
<br />
<cite>Steven M. Rundle said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/mdf-vs-plywood-for-garage#2900167Comment39494"><div>Hi Dan,<br/> <br/>
had a similar quesiton earlier this year when I replaced my old work bench. I am originally from Toronto, but now live in Virginia. We get a lot of humidity here and my shop is in my garage. When I lived up north, all my shops were in the basement and didn't have the moisture issue.<br/>
<br/>
Personally, I do not like MDF. I find it can be really hard on saw blades. It also has a habit of denting and it does not hold up to moisture very well. If it gets wet, it will bubble. If it gets soaked it can swell.<br/>
<br/>
What I have done in the past is use a sheet of 3/4" plywood. Then, I laminate that with a 1/2" or 3/4" of oak or birch plywood. I do not glue down the top layer and attach from the bottom with screws. Then, when the top gets beat up, you can take it off and replace it.<br/>
<br/>
As far as finishing goes, I prefer natural oils over stains or paints. They are easy to apply and once I year I reapply oil to my bench if needed. I have made a few benches from of all different sizes. If you have any questions or want any ideas I am happy to help. My email is rundle3@verizon.net<br/>
<br/>
Workbenches are my favorite projects. The wood is relatively cheap (I use 2x4's and 2x6's) and you can try some different joints and techniques.</div>
</blockquote> Sandpaper used wet is more fo…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-05-25:2900167:Comment:396862010-05-25T00:48:20.834ZBen Socratoushttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/BenSocratous
Sandpaper used wet is more for when you are going for a high gloss finish, something akin to car paint. Not really needed for a work bench surface that is destined to cop a lot of abuse! The grade of papaer you use would be dependant on the condition of the plywood you start with. Have you got it yet? Do you know what grade the ply faces are?<br />
<br />
If it is rough and haggard, then I'd start with 80 and work up from there. If it is realatively smooth to start with, then a quick going over with 240…
Sandpaper used wet is more for when you are going for a high gloss finish, something akin to car paint. Not really needed for a work bench surface that is destined to cop a lot of abuse! The grade of papaer you use would be dependant on the condition of the plywood you start with. Have you got it yet? Do you know what grade the ply faces are?<br />
<br />
If it is rough and haggard, then I'd start with 80 and work up from there. If it is realatively smooth to start with, then a quick going over with 240 should be fine.<br />
<br />
Sanding between coats would depend on how smooth you want the finish to be. Once again, with a work bench surface it hardly seems logical putting in the effort as if you were doing a car or furniture.<br />
<br />
As for durability, most turps based lacquers should be fine. I would like to thank everyon…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-05-25:2900167:Comment:396742010-05-25T00:22:39.815ZDaniel Pinskyhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/DanielPinsky
I would like to thank everyone for their advice. This is my first project and so I didn't want to totally screw up. I decided to go with two sheets of 3/4'' plywood. I have a fast sanding questions.<br />
<br />
How do I prep the surface (the plywood) with sandpaper? What grits am I suppose to use? I have read start with 80ish and end up with 220ish.<br />
<br />
Once the surface is preped am I supposed to sand between finishing coats? I have also read about using wet sandpaper. When am I suppose to use what?<br />
<br />
Does…
I would like to thank everyone for their advice. This is my first project and so I didn't want to totally screw up. I decided to go with two sheets of 3/4'' plywood. I have a fast sanding questions.<br />
<br />
How do I prep the surface (the plywood) with sandpaper? What grits am I suppose to use? I have read start with 80ish and end up with 220ish.<br />
<br />
Once the surface is preped am I supposed to sand between finishing coats? I have also read about using wet sandpaper. When am I suppose to use what?<br />
<br />
Does anyone have an suggestions for a good durable finish?<br />
<br />
Regards I would like to thank everyon…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-05-25:2900167:Comment:396732010-05-25T00:21:55.274ZDaniel Pinskyhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/DanielPinsky
I would like to thank everyone for their advice. This is my first project and so I didn't want to totally screw up. I decided to go with two sheets of 3/4'' plywood. I have a fast sanding questions.<br />
<br />
How do I prep the surface (the plywood) with sandpaper? What grits am I suppose to use? I have read start with 80ish and end up with 220ish.<br />
<br />
Once the surface is preped am I supposed to sand between finishing coats? I have also read about using wet sandpaper. When am I suppose to use what?<br />
<br />
Does…
I would like to thank everyone for their advice. This is my first project and so I didn't want to totally screw up. I decided to go with two sheets of 3/4'' plywood. I have a fast sanding questions.<br />
<br />
How do I prep the surface (the plywood) with sandpaper? What grits am I suppose to use? I have read start with 80ish and end up with 220ish.<br />
<br />
Once the surface is preped am I supposed to sand between finishing coats? I have also read about using wet sandpaper. When am I suppose to use what?<br />
<br />
Does anyone have an suggestions for a good durable finish?<br />
<br />
Regards<br />
<br />
<cite>Steven M. Rundle said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/mdf-vs-plywood-for-garage?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A39494&xg_source=msg_com_forum#2900167Comment39494"><div>Hi Dan,<br/><br/>had a similar quesiton earlier this year when I replaced my old work bench. I am originally from Toronto, but now live in Virginia. We get a lot of humidity here and my shop is in my garage. When I lived up north, all my shops were in the basement and didn't have the moisture issue.<br/><br/>Personally, I do not like MDF. I find it can be really hard on saw blades. It also has a habit of denting and it does not hold up to moisture very well. If it gets wet, it will bubble. If it gets soaked it can swell.<br/><br/>What I have done in the past is use a sheet of 3/4" plywood. Then, I laminate that with a 1/2" or 3/4" of oak or birch plywood. I do not glue down the top layer and attach from the bottom with screws. Then, when the top gets beat up, you can take it off and replace it.<br/><br/>As far as finishing goes, I prefer natural oils over stains or paints. They are easy to apply and once I year I reapply oil to my bench if needed. I have made a few benches from of all different sizes. If you have any questions or want any ideas I am happy to help. My email is rundle3@verizon.net<br/><br/>Workbenches are my favorite projects. The wood is relatively cheap (I use 2x4's and 2x6's) and you can try some different joints and techniques.</div>
</blockquote> Hi Dan,
had a similar quesit…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-05-24:2900167:Comment:394942010-05-24T00:15:41.584ZSteven M. Rundlehttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/StevenMRundle
Hi Dan,<br />
<br />
had a similar quesiton earlier this year when I replaced my old work bench. I am originally from Toronto, but now live in Virginia. We get a lot of humidity here and my shop is in my garage. When I lived up north, all my shops were in the basement and didn't have the moisture issue.<br />
<br />
Personally, I do not like MDF. I find it can be really hard on saw blades. It also has a habit of denting and it does not hold up to moisture very well. If it gets wet, it will bubble. If it gets soaked it…
Hi Dan,<br />
<br />
had a similar quesiton earlier this year when I replaced my old work bench. I am originally from Toronto, but now live in Virginia. We get a lot of humidity here and my shop is in my garage. When I lived up north, all my shops were in the basement and didn't have the moisture issue.<br />
<br />
Personally, I do not like MDF. I find it can be really hard on saw blades. It also has a habit of denting and it does not hold up to moisture very well. If it gets wet, it will bubble. If it gets soaked it can swell.<br />
<br />
What I have done in the past is use a sheet of 3/4" plywood. Then, I laminate that with a 1/2" or 3/4" of oak or birch plywood. I do not glue down the top layer and attach from the bottom with screws. Then, when the top gets beat up, you can take it off and replace it.<br />
<br />
As far as finishing goes, I prefer natural oils over stains or paints. They are easy to apply and once I year I reapply oil to my bench if needed. I have made a few benches from of all different sizes. If you have any questions or want any ideas I am happy to help. My email is rundle3@verizon.net<br />
<br />
Workbenches are my favorite projects. The wood is relatively cheap (I use 2x4's and 2x6's) and you can try some different joints and techniques. Just tried this I'm into r/c…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-05-24:2900167:Comment:394922010-05-24T00:13:37.518ZGary roofnerhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/Garyyroofner
Just tried this I'm into r/c airplanes before you put your screws in to mdf coat the screw with wood glue and it hold many times better. We do this with the servous so the don't come losse.
Just tried this I'm into r/c airplanes before you put your screws in to mdf coat the screw with wood glue and it hold many times better. We do this with the servous so the don't come losse. MDF is easier to work, and a…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-05-23:2900167:Comment:394682010-05-23T21:16:00.124ZBen Socratoushttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/BenSocratous
MDF is easier to work, and a whole lot cheaper. Also with a decent coat of paint/lacquer it will handle moisture well (I left my bench out in the rain for a week while the shed got re-wired and was fine). The downside is that MDF is not as stiff as the plywood of the same thickness, ergo will need more support than the plywood would. Double thickness 18mm MDF will aliviate that issue, I had a sheet of 25mm sitting in the shed for 2 years so I decided to use that!<br />
<br />
*yes I work in metric…
MDF is easier to work, and a whole lot cheaper. Also with a decent coat of paint/lacquer it will handle moisture well (I left my bench out in the rain for a week while the shed got re-wired and was fine). The downside is that MDF is not as stiff as the plywood of the same thickness, ergo will need more support than the plywood would. Double thickness 18mm MDF will aliviate that issue, I had a sheet of 25mm sitting in the shed for 2 years so I decided to use that!<br />
<br />
*yes I work in metric measurements... deal with it, lol What I have done in the pass…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-05-22:2900167:Comment:393422010-05-22T03:14:09.543ZMike rignolahttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/MikeRignola
What I have done in the pass I used both wood and MDF. I put a piece of 3/4"MDF between 2 pieces of 1/2" hardwood plywood. It's pretty heavy but its real strong. I capped the edges with some 3/4" hard plywood.
What I have done in the pass I used both wood and MDF. I put a piece of 3/4"MDF between 2 pieces of 1/2" hardwood plywood. It's pretty heavy but its real strong. I capped the edges with some 3/4" hard plywood.