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I've purchased all the materials to make the Kreg Jig Custom Storage Unit. The directions say:

"In this project all Pocket-Holes will be drilled using the 1/2" settings with the Kreg Jig® Micro Pocket Drill Guide (ITEM # KJMICRODGB) and 3⁄∕4"-long Pocket-Hole Screws will be used."

In the Kreg Pocket Hole System Instruction Manual, on page 8 it says "Use 1" screw to join 1/2" to another 1/2" thick workpiece."

I plan to test on some scraps, but wondered if something is incorrect here, or is it my lack of understanding?

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I too have the same question. I just purchased the Kreg's jig and read through the Quick Start Guide that came with it. Under the section title "Nominal Size vs Actual Size" it explains that you should set the Jig to the "Actual Size", but does not mention when choosing the screw length in the "Screw Selection Chart" if you are to select the "Nominal" size or "Actual" size. Kinda left that part out. I would assume, but, you know what they say when you assume, the it is the Actual size. Is this correct? Thank you in advance for any help.

I'd prefer that someone with more experience deal with your question.

Another user emailed me on my question. It seems the plan I am using uses a Kreg accessory (Micro Pocket Drill), to make smaller pocket holes for 1/2" material, thus the smaller screw size. If I had known this, I could have picked a different project, I guess. But it's too late now, as I had Lowe's make one of the cuts on a 4x4 sheet of 1/2" birch plywood.  :-(

Anyhow, I'm having fun. 

Good luck to you.

I've copied feedback here, to help anyone else who may have the same question:

James wilhelm added a comment to your profile on Kreg Jig Owners Community

Richard , under project plans - click on down load free project plans - under Kreg product,s  - top left - click on Kreg jigs - click on accessories - click on view micro pocket drill guide- click on get product manual - bottom left side - in drill guide look under working with 1/2 " material , hope this will help you , Jim !!!

I apologize Richard. I should have paid more attention to the question you had asked. Guess I just looked at the subject title and assumed. There I go again, assuming LOL Thanks

Mike,  you would want to choose the actual size of the wood pieces you are joining.   It gets a little more confusing when you start joining wood of two different thicknesses.   Kreg tool site has some very informative videos that I found helpful.   Here is a link.  Hope this helps.

http://www.kregtool.com/PocketHole-Screws-and-Plugs-Prodlist.html

 

Richard, I have built this plan.  It is under my projects if you want to have a look at it.  Here are some of my lessons learned and advice for your consideration.

1st off, the regular Kreg jig will work.  I did  not have the micro jig for this project.  

2nd, add an extra 1/2" to the width of the outer box sides.  I found that the portable jig holder did not fit into the the drawer when built to the plans.  If I redo this project I may add a full inch.

3rd, if you use a hinge for the drawer catch, make sure to place it 1/16th" or so further back than the thickness of your material.  I put mine too close to the front edge of the top.

4th, as for the screws, I believe I used 1" course thread.  Use a hand screw driver to drive the screws if you are using ply wood.  It is very soft and a drill/driver will strip the wood.

Good Luck with your project!

Mike

When reference is made to "actual size", it is in reference to the lumber material.

1x4 lumber material---actual size is 3/4 by 3-1/2".

Fir plywood is oftentimes labeled 3/4", but is actually 23/32".

1/2'' plywood is actually 15/32".  The same goes for hardwood plywoods.

It's best to  become familar with lumber material sizes, before proceeding, so as to avoid potential problems,

that may be encountered.

1" long pocket screws is the norm when joining adjacent members to 1/2" thick material.

There are some cases, where a 3/4" long screw may be more appropriate.

It best to make  ''sample test pieces" of the same material thickness, so as to insure the joined members are satisfactory.

One can easily encounter problems, when joining 3/4" thick materials then switching to 1/2" thick materials, or visa versa, and forget to reset the drill stop.

Another reason to make a sample test piece, before proceeding.

I know it may be an extra step---but---

as the old saying, ''haste makes waste".

It's best to review the manuals and user guides, and

become familar with the tools, before proceeding.

I encourage one to read the manual couple or more times, before proceeding.

Oftentimes, we're excited with a new tool, get in a hurry to ''get 'er done" and forget the necessary steps.

When using a power tools, such as a drill/driver, that features an adjustable torque setting,

always start with the torque setting at it lowest setting---

then proceed up the scale, until the desired torque is needed to make a satisfactory joined member.

The settings are numberically marked on the tool---from 1 to 10.

(Some tools I have are marked 1-6, some marked 1-9 and some marker 1-10).

Drill/driver torque varies between different OEM tools and their respective settings.

TIP:  Practice driving screws in a piece of pine board, then in hardwoods---

starting with the torque setting set at its lowest setting.

Install another screw, with the driver at its next setting.

Repeat until you've gone thru each setting---from low to high.

Observe the distance the screw was driven into the sample wood piece.

This will give you an idea of how the torque setting affects the depth the screw was driven in.

(Become familar with the OEM tool manual).

I've seen workers injured after using a light-duty tool then grabbing a heavy-duty tool when proceeding to the next task.

One guy nearly had his wrist broken, when the HD drill locked up.

Thanks, Mike. Good advice!

Michael Lester said:

Richard, I have built this plan.  It is under my projects if you want to have a look at it.  Here are some of my lessons learned and advice for your consideration.

1st off, the regular Kreg jig will work.  I did  not have the micro jig for this project.  

2nd, add an extra 1/2" to the width of the outer box sides.  I found that the portable jig holder did not fit into the the drawer when built to the plans.  If I redo this project I may add a full inch.

3rd, if you use a hinge for the drawer catch, make sure to place it 1/16th" or so further back than the thickness of your material.  I put mine too close to the front edge of the top.

4th, as for the screws, I believe I used 1" course thread.  Use a hand screw driver to drive the screws if you are using ply wood.  It is very soft and a drill/driver will strip the wood.

Good Luck with your project!

Mike

Thanks so much, all of you, for all the helpful tips. Perhaps I can leave one. Before buying Kreg items, check the prices at Amazon. I've been getting everything at Lowe's, but found some of their items are much more than Amazon. The only problem is have to wait for it.  :-)

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