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hi im building my own shed. i need to drill pocket holes in timber 2inches thick will timber this thick fit in the kreg jigs? if not an alternative systems? just like to add this timber is 2 inches thick unlike the 1.1/2 inch 2x4 mentioned in other posts.

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It should work fine, but the screw won't exit in the middle of the end-grain. If you use the 1 1/2" material setting, it'll exit 0.75" from the pocket-hole side and 1.25" from the other side. Make sense?
yes makes perfect sense thanks and was what i expected i was just ensuring that clamp will open wide enough to allow 2 inch timber before i make an expensive purchase
When adapting for different thicknesses of stock, my only suggestion would be to remember these two things:

1) The main goal of the vertical settings on the Kreg Jig is to ensure that the exit-point of your screw is at the very center of your workpiece. This creates a stronger joint. So, if you want to work with larger material, take your drill guide out of the benchtop base, set it on your stock at the normal 1-1/2" distance, and then take it a bit further before you clamp it down.

2) You want the tip of your drill bit to ALMOST come to the edge of the stock, but not protrude through. Set the stop collar on your drill bit so that the tip of the bit is about an 1/16" from the edge of the board, or about the thickness of a nickle.
Oh, by the way... I was thinking of a K3 or K4 jig (the kind that you clamp or screw to a table). However, if using a Kreg Jr., Kreg mini, or the removable drill guide from a K3 or K4, you should be able to make the pocket screw exit right in the middle of your 2" stock by setting the jig back further than normal and moving the drill bit collar back as well. It may take a little trial and error, but you can do it.

If you are using the K3 or K4 in the bench mount, you cannot set the drill guide for more than 1 1/2" stock, but I think you'll be able to clamp the 2" material in there. If doing it that way, make sure you set the bit collar for 1 1/2" material, or else it will break through the surface. In this case, as I mentioned in the previous post, the screw will not come out exactly in the center. As Derek mentioned, this will not create the strongest joint. However, it may be strong enough for your project.
By the way, all of Kreg's clamps are definitely large enough to fit 2" stock. I think the smallest face-clamp could probably do around 4-5" thick stock if necessary.
Derek, I was talking about the clamp built into the K3 and K4 systems. I don't know what the limit of those is, but yes, a face clamp and a portable jig would certainly work.
i was talking about the clamp on the jig aswell. i think my best option is to buy the kreg jig mini as this well work with any thickness and also is less of an investment if it is no help. thanks for all your replys.
The mini is the cheaper way to go, for sure... but you might want to consider the Kreg Jr. Used with the Kreg face clamp, the Kreg Jr. is faster to use than the mini, and has two drill guides instead of one. For 1 1/2" and smaller material, the built in guide makes it super easy to set the guide for the proper offset.

With the mini Kreg, you have to measure each time you place the jig... would probably be easy if you made a spacer for it.

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